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RE: Quick Question!
 

http://www.angelfire.com/sports/hunt...tringloop.html

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RE: Quick Question!
 

http://www.alseaintegration.com/ptc/string_loop.htm

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RE: Quick Question! Also how to do' tie-on' nocking point.
 

Super

It is a matter of personal preference, but unless you have always used a " tie-on" nocking-point, I would not use one.

Unless done correctly, a tie-on can be notorious for slipping unless you really bind the nock tightly and securely to the bowstring. Then, when your string begins to creep …. which changes your nock height, or your arrow tuning requires you change your nock height, the task of undoing and retying each time will be daunting.

RE: Quick Question! Also how to do' tie-on' nocking point.
 

C903,

I find ease of changing the position of a tie-on nocking point, one of it' s greatest advantages. You want to tie it tightly, but still be able to " thread it" up or down the string. With the proper tention on the knots, it will not move while shooting with a string loop, yet will still twist around the string with enough force from your grip. One of the keys is to alway have an arrow nocked when drawing. I always put a dab of white-out just above my nocking point so I can tell if it' s moved. If the string has crept, it' s only a couple seconds to twist the nocking point up or down the string. I can' t imagine using a brass nocking point, because of the ease of changing a tie-on one.

RE: Quick Question! Also how to do' tie-on' nocking point.
 

Straight

I know shooters who use " tie-on" nocks and swear by them. I do not trust anything you can you can easily move by hand force.

On certain critical accessories, I will give up speed for reliability and durability.

I like this setup.



The system does not apply " fouling" pressure to the nock, keeps the nock aligned, and can be tightly secured to string without cutting into the string.

RE: Quick Question! Also how to do' tie-on' nocking point.
 

C903,

I agree with the reliability issue vs. speed. The key is to tie them tight enough, that they can' t be moved easily. After shooting a tie-on nock for a few years now, I' ve yet to have one move even a smidgeon, which is easily checked with my dab of white-out. If I had found reliability to be an issue, I wouldn' t use them. I' d be more worried about those screws falling out of that nock in your picture.

What' s really great, is that if something happens in the field that causes you to have to move your nocking point, they are easily constructed and can be moved without a tool. Other positives are: There is less string vibration (and noise) when you reduce the weight of the nock, you gain a small amount of speed if you break or lose one and you can tie a new one within a few minutes.

I wouldn' t recommend tying on your first one, the day before going on a hunting trip, but learning it now in the offseason, gives one plenty of time to learn how to tie a good one.

RE: Quick Question! Also how to do' tie-on' nocking point.
 

Screws are not going anywhere. They are locked in with medium adhesive " Loc-Tite." Nock height is measured from static point and marked. If it does move, or the string creeps, but the change is not great, I just dial in the difference on my micro-adjust GFK rest.....in the field. :)

Or, if change occurs or is noticed while in the field, and nock has to be moved I just reach into my butt pack, whip out my handy-dandy little Phillips head driver, my little plastic bottle of " Loc-Tite," my sewing tape measure; unlock the screws, adjust the height and measure for correct height from my designated static reference point, reapply some " Loc-Tite," and tighten screws. Takes about 10-15 minutes max. Can be back in the hunt and know the bow will shoot where it was shooting before repair. :)

Do not have to be concerned about D-Loop being extremely tight on string. Loop cannot squeeze past edges of aluminum " Speed Loop."