Broadhead weight?
 

Ok so I want to know what weight broadhead will help me get the best flight (according to OT or a similar program). I am getting ready to pick up some BH's and want to know if 100's or 125's --or even something else-- would be good for me?

My specs: @61#
Victory V-Force HV's .400 spine-- cut to 28" @310 grains total 100gr FP -- for now
325fps

I just wanna get the right size BH so I can reduce the headaches. I shoot great out to 40 (softball size groups) with FPs but know that BH might be a different monster. Thanks for the input. And YES, I know my arrows are light. Can any of you OT guys help out? Thanks

First of all, what weight are your field points? You should match your broadheads to that and be good to go...

As stated above they are 100 gr right now -- but that can change if needed

And to clearify: WITH the 100 gr point they come to around 310gr total arrow weight

My bad, did not catch the field point weight. With what you are shooting now you are like right at the minimum total arrow weight you could safely shoot. You might want to check your bows specs to see if 5 grains per pound is the correct. My bow is 6 grains per pound. With a heavier BH your POI will most likely change at longer ranges.

Yes--- I understand I am clost to IBO minimun. How do you think im shooting at 325fps. I know I could go heavier but im stubborn. I just want to know if a 100 or 125 gr point will benefit me more--- help get the best BH flight -- before I buy any new ones. Thanks

IMO the only way to know for sure is to try them both out and see which ones fly better. I have some 100 gr. wasps that are like brand new if you would like a couple to try.

Ill send TFOX this way to check it on AA for you... You are probably underspined???

Derek

I also think you are underspined.Probably won't have much luck with fixed blade heads but might have some luck with mechanicals.

I had a feeling you were going to say I was underspined. But I went by both the chart and by the guy I have tune my bow -- and you know he is pretty darn credible. Again they are cut to 28" -- anything I can do to spine then right? Increase tip weight? Decrease? Thanks BUCK -- I actually have some 100gr Wasps. Thanks for the offer though man

I gave you 27.5" for raw shaft. 325 fps with a 310 grain arrow is freaking smoking.Alot of energy there.Charts don't account for that kind of energy.YET

My suggestion is to stick the Wasp on and see if you can get them to tune with fp's.

You can usually work with stiff with broadheads but not weak.

Lowering poundage or decreasing tip weight is the only thing you can do,short of cutting the arrows even shorter.

Try the broadheads you have before you go any further.That will tell you all you need to know.You are probably close enough to get them to fly but imo,I doubt they will group with FP's.

Yeah I can't cut the arrows any shorter. They are about a 1/2 inch past the launcher arm -- thats where i picked up some speed was going from 31 in to 28in for arrows. I will definately give them a try --- i was just curious as to what the OT program said.

You ought to send it to crackers and get it crackerized. He is the best ever been or will be.

Damn strait:barmy::kt:

I heard crackers sprinkles magic powder on bows and gets 10fps increase. Thats just what I heard.

Ya maybe I will. I know he knows more about a bow than you do thats for sure. I'm really glad you can take a simple question and turn it into a smart azz argument. You always were a prick

Back to the main topic -- any suggestions?

Give you an idea of what you could expect.I have a .440 spine and that tunes perfect with bareshafts and broadheads.I shoot ACC's and today just for giggles shot my FMJ 500's out of MY BOW.The diameter and fletch is really close so subsequently the up and down impact out to 30 was very similar with broadheads.I was surprised to see that even at 30 the arrows impacted about 1" to the right of fp's.


I checked them through paper and I was also surprised to see that they shot bulletholes.

I have top of the line arrows,an arrow rest that is up untill the fletching gets to it for ultimate guidance.The bow has been tuned to perfection on Hooter shooter and in my hands.

What I am saying is if you have everything perfect,you might be close enough on spine to get acceptable flight.Not sure how they would penetrate for me at lower poundage.


My spine range wasn't that great and you are about as close as I was with the 500's so they MIGHT work to your satisfaction.

Interesting. Thanks again man. I was telling Derek I was gonna try it out and see what happens... if worse comes to worse I will throw some mechanicals on for the time being. I would just fork the cash for new arrows but I doubt my college would appreciate that.

I am not sure how many suggestions you need to fix this problem. I think TFOX covered it. Get out there and fix it. Its that simple.

That wasn't very nice and even breaking forum rules. You sound like a kid.

Todd is all over this one like white and rice and has it smothered and covered.

Just as an aside though... if you are wondering about spine reactions and what not... field points are cheap... shoot a couple 100s and a couple 125s and see what the difference is... walk them on back to 30 and 40 and even 50 yards.... I think you'll find your 125s will drift.

I've shot 125s for a long time.... but that was on 70# bows.... usually backed down a bit... and on .340 arrows that were boarderline stiff.

I bought a 60# drenalin this spring... and with maxima hunter 250s at 28" (finished) and 125gr heads.... for the first time in my enlightened (meaning since I learned the difference between a turd and wild honey with regards to archery) I had some problems getting my broadheads and field points together.

On a wild hair... I broke out some montec 100gr pre-seasons.... and instantly FPs and BHs came together with dang near no adjustments at all (which was pure luck).... so now I'm back to 100s.... with more Slick Trick Mags on the way... glad the blades from the 125 mags are the same... got plenty of spares already ;-)

In hindsight... I downloaded a demo of AA... or OT2... I forget... plugged all my info in... and 250s with 125s came up a shade weak... went back and amended it to 100s... boom... literally perfect on the spine scale.... might have saved me some headache to start there rather than finish there.

[quote=SwampCollie;3438135]Todd is all over this one like white and rice and has it smothered and covered.

Just as an aside though... if you are wondering about spine reactions and what not... field points are cheap... shoot a couple 100s and a couple 125s and see what the difference is... walk them on back to 30 and 40 and even 50 yards.... I think you'll find your 125s will drift.

I've shot 125s for a long time.... but that was on 70# bows.... usually backed down a bit... and on .340 arrows that were boarderline stiff.

I bought a 60# drenalin this spring... and with maxima hunter 250s at 28" (finished) and 125gr heads.... for the first time in my enlightened (meaning since I learned the difference between a turd and wild honey with regards to archery) I had some problems getting my broadheads and field points together.

On a wild hair... I broke out some montec 100gr pre-seasons.... and instantly FPs and BHs came together with dang near no adjustments at all (which was pure luck).... so now I'm back to 100s.... with more Slick Trick Mags on the way... glad the blades from the 125 mags are the same... got plenty of spares already ;-)

In hindsight... I downloaded a demo of AA... or OT2... I forget... plugged all my info in... and 250s with 125s came up a shade weak... went back and amended it to 100s... boom... literally perfect on the spine scale.... might have saved me some headache to start there rather than finish there.[/quote]

I have used both and AA is usually a tad stiffer than OT2 but as we all know,stiffer is better:confused2:.I have even heard it said that Easton recommends AA for spine selection BUT THAT IS INTERNET HEAR SAY,do not know it for sure.;)

I did try some old broadheads I had laying around from GKF called dead heads.On the 500's,they impacted several inches right.I never had much luck with those broadheads.The blades were angled and I think the blades just took over.

Over on AT they call it magic "chinchilla dust"... Thats what they say;)

Or maybe its just that he litterally does thousands of bows per year:confused2:

Glad you think so. My bad -- I appologize for asking a legitimate question and you respond by trying to be a smart azz and making fun of me for having faith in the guy the tuned my bow.I also appologize for not having having the money to buy my own equipment to help me tune a bow. Sounds to me like someone may be jelous; that or you really are a pompous azz and don't really care about helping people out. Go hug a tree, really. This is where you insert your foot in mouth.

If you can't get over yourself then please don't respond to my threads. I think you could have some really good insight and I WAS looking forward to hearing from you; instead, you try to act cool by telling me to go to someone who I beleive knows what they are talking about? WOW good one. Now who's acting like a douche?

I also love how you assume I am a Crackers fanboy from me recommending him to a guy that 1. Lived in Missouri 2. Needed tuning 3. Didn't have confidence in any of his nearby shops. OMG OMG HE IS THE GREATEST THING SINCE SLICED BREAD!!!! Seriously dude get over it HAHAH. You're the one acting like a kid.

To Swamp, Fox, Derek and everyone else that posted useful and insightful info -- thanks

Chinchilla dust = lava dust. I just ordered a truckload -- I am selling it for the low low price of $100 for a 4 oz bottle:p. 25fps gain guaranteed;) I also read a dude on AT gained 17 fps because is god pissed on his cam. BigCountry... this service is free of charge to you -- send me your bow -- i will even pay shipping :)

[quote=FSUBIGMAC;3438221]Glad you think so. My bad -- I appologize for asking a legitimate question and you respond by trying to be a smart azz and making fun of me for having faith in the guy the tuned my bow.I also appologize for not having having the money to buy my own equipment to help me tune a bow.quote]


Hey Bigmac, just trying to help you out. What equipment do you think you need to tune a bow anyway? You got all you need. TFOX gave you spot on advise. Now you just got to go do it.