I dont know whats wrong????
 

I got one of my friends to watch me shoot lastnight. He stood behind me and said I had a major problem with my form. Most people, when they pull back, pull the string straight back in a straight line where everything lines up correctly...arrow, rest, and the string.

Not me. He said when I'm at full draw the string is **** eyed to the left, probably an inch left of center. Just imagine looking behind someone, the bow is straight, but the string when at full draw is pulled to the left like you're shooting sideways. Also a problem with this is that its gonna rub my string on the left side really bad where its forcing itself on that side of the cam.

Any suggestions?

How are you gripping the bow?
 

The only thing off the top of my head without seeing you, from what you describe, you may be tightly gripping the bow and causing torque. There was a video on Utube with Larry Wise showing a correct grip. Might be worth a try.

It may either torque or a centershot issue with the bow.Hard to understand exactly what is going on.

Just imagine standing behind me, when I pull back, I pull the string to the left where the string isnt aligned properly with the bow itself. Almost to where you'd think the string would come off the cam visually looking at it.

Without knowing what kinda bow you are shooting, I can only stab wildly at what the issue is.... most often, it is simple idler lean with a single cam bow... the idler wheel will look like its canted off center at full draw... a couple twists in the yoke on the high side should balance her out.

If you have a binary cam bow like a bowtech... you kinda gotta live with that.

With a Hoyt... something is probably wrong beyond your repair, and it usually takes a call to my girls in Utah (the Hoyt girls I talk to are always super nice), and a RA # with some new limbs or limbs pockets to fix this.

Granted.... I just touched on the three major cam systems... and the three major companies that employ each system.... Singles are singles, binary's are binary's, and hybrids are hybrids.


I don't honestly think that your problem is bow torque.... it could be... but if it is, at least you are doing it exactly the same every time. Most folks won't torque a bow bad enough to let it rub the cables. And if that was the case.. you could reposition your hand and correct the problem.... and you wouldn't be looking for answers on the net.

If the bow was recently serviced, there is the off chance that someone pressed it improperly. This is the hectic time of year in the life of the pro-shop mafias, and sometimes people get impatient and get in a rush and mistakes are made. Not saying thats the case, or even a likely possibility... but it is a possibility never-the-less.

As usual, I see SwampCollie's points. Not having a visual reference (picture) I would suggest you take it to a shop and see if they can see what's going on.

Just taking a guess from us is not going to be of much help.

its a bowtech...my friend had a hoyt and said he did the same thing. he took it to the same bow shop and they corrected his form and he said it fixed it.

Just seems its probably losing some energy having to straighten itself up first and then protracting forward to sling the arrow.

And by the way, its juiced up as hell, I told the shop to do whatever to make it 70lbs+. I know you think I'm crazy but I can pull it easily.

Thats your answer right there.

When he juiced up that bow (love that term for it by the way.... found myself laughing at 4am).... he did so by twisting up the cables.... the cables are on the right side of the cams if you are a right handed shooter. Because they are torqued down right much harder than they are designed to be... that can easily kick the bottom of your cams off to the side.

Take a couple measurements on your bow.... check the axle to axle to length and brace height... if they are out of spec, that could well be part of the problem right there. If you balance those back out (granted you may drop back down a pound or three), some of that lean ought to go away. Most bows bottomed out and in spec will still be a good 2-4#s over what they list at... part of that is probably the mass weight of the bow itself. Frankly, I find 2-4 #s academic at best anyway... especially if you are losing effeciency and therefore speed and stealth rather than gaining it.

I was still thinking torque till he got to the "all Juiced Up" part.

Over twisted cables on a Binary System....Built in torque, on the limbs.

NOT GOOD. Need to "un juice" it a little or you are gonna tear it up. And yes, you are correct, it is not efficient at it's current configuration. You may actually get just as good speed back in spec. No matter, speed or not, it needs put back.

What these guys said. Remember, poundage is just a number and what is necessary is not always what our testoterone level thinks.

Whether you can draw 70# easily is not an issue. It's just not necessary for anything you going to hunt here. Now it seems your bow may be being over-clocked. The increase in poundage is probably more than being offset by a reduction in efficiency due to internal friction and other things. So now you may be just drawing excess poundage for naught.