arrows kicking and peep not lined up?
08-12-2009, 10:35 PM
#11
Spike
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Barbour Co. West Virginia
Posts: 90
I love a good laugh guys, but I was not joking....I have heard lots of folks say they saw an arrow kicking....but it really was just normal flexion.
Also, how do we know what to tell him if we don't have a clue as to HOW it is kicking.
NOW....from his answer it appears his kick may not be so bad after all, and we have a start of something to work with.
FISHSTUFFER. what did the tear look like? How long was the tear and what direction was it deflecting, or torn? Also can you shoot at 7 or 8 ft and compare that to the 10ft tear please?
Thanks,
Dryridge
Also, how do we know what to tell him if we don't have a clue as to HOW it is kicking.
NOW....from his answer it appears his kick may not be so bad after all, and we have a start of something to work with.
FISHSTUFFER. what did the tear look like? How long was the tear and what direction was it deflecting, or torn? Also can you shoot at 7 or 8 ft and compare that to the 10ft tear please?
Thanks,
Dryridge
08-13-2009, 03:39 AM
#12
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Nekoosa Wi USA
Posts: 6,066
Are the arrows going into the target straight or are they at a slight angle? If they are straight then I wouldnt worry too much about it. If they are crooked, then you may have to move your rest in or out. Im betting youre seeing normal flexion. Shoot it through paper at 5 yards, 10, yards, and 20 yards. Compare the three and see how they look. This will tell you what you have to do if they are kicking.
08-13-2009, 06:10 AM
#13
Fork Horn
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Big Bend,WI
Posts: 261
I wouldn't use the arrows angle in the target to read how your bow is shooting!!!!!!!!!! Different target types will show different angles. A bag target will show various angles from a perfectly tuned bow.
08-13-2009, 06:24 AM
#14
Spike
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location:
Posts: 49
Are the arrows going into the target straight or are they at a slight angle? If they are straight then I wouldnt worry too much about it. If they are crooked, then you may have to move your rest in or out. Im betting youre seeing normal flexion. Shoot it through paper at 5 yards, 10, yards, and 20 yards. Compare the three and see how they look. This will tell you what you have to do if they are kicking.
I will shoot it again at 10 feet and 7 and 8 feet to see what I get. I do see with my first test that the arrows are straightening by the time they get to the target. Even at 10 yards from the paper.Could I be just not use to seeing the arrow flex (like dryridge2 said) from this bow because it is new and a lot faster than my old one. I have never seen any of my arrows flex with my old bow.
08-14-2009, 12:32 AM
#15
Spike
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Barbour Co. West Virginia
Posts: 90
Fishstuffer.
First, you don't have to shoot both 7 and 8 ft. Just in that general area of 7 or 8 ft. and compare to 10ft.
Second, yes, there is a very good chance that with this set up your arrow is coming up and meeting your sight pin as you followthrough which is PERFECT. You probably couldn't do that with your other bow or this one just fits better. However, you may have a bit of a tuning hiccup that can be fixed. As you know, all arrows go through an occillation process, some more than others depending on spine, cam and energy transfer along the arrow shaft material. Straight fiber carbons have less. Spiral wound carbons have more due to the energy transfer along the singular strands in a straight line vs. spirals. Of course these spirals offset each other to some degree but still it causes more flexion, just quicker reconvery. You can see this on slow motion video clips available on the web. If you wish you can do a search.
Let's not write it all off, lets see what the paper tells us. Watch your form and shoot no less than 3 different arrows from each distance. Mark your arrows 1,2,3 on the fletch if you haven't and see if one consistantly tears more. We will throw that one out and use the others as out baseline.
First, you don't have to shoot both 7 and 8 ft. Just in that general area of 7 or 8 ft. and compare to 10ft.
Second, yes, there is a very good chance that with this set up your arrow is coming up and meeting your sight pin as you followthrough which is PERFECT. You probably couldn't do that with your other bow or this one just fits better. However, you may have a bit of a tuning hiccup that can be fixed. As you know, all arrows go through an occillation process, some more than others depending on spine, cam and energy transfer along the arrow shaft material. Straight fiber carbons have less. Spiral wound carbons have more due to the energy transfer along the singular strands in a straight line vs. spirals. Of course these spirals offset each other to some degree but still it causes more flexion, just quicker reconvery. You can see this on slow motion video clips available on the web. If you wish you can do a search.
Let's not write it all off, lets see what the paper tells us. Watch your form and shoot no less than 3 different arrows from each distance. Mark your arrows 1,2,3 on the fletch if you haven't and see if one consistantly tears more. We will throw that one out and use the others as out baseline.
08-21-2009, 08:35 AM
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Idaho
Posts: 244
You have three options assuming that you are using a mechanical release. Here's what Easton's Tuning guide says:
4. Choose a stiffer spine arrow.
P.S. Here's a link to the tuning guide. It's got lots of great info if you haven't already read it.
http://www.eastonarchery.com/pdf/tuning_guide.pdf
Mechanical Release Aid (CR) To correct:
1. Move the arrow rest to the right. Continue
to move the rest to the right in small increments
until the left tear is eliminated.
2. Make sure the bow hand is well relaxed to eliminate
excessive bow hand torque.
3. Decrease peak bow weight.
1. Move the arrow rest to the right. Continue
to move the rest to the right in small increments
until the left tear is eliminated.
2. Make sure the bow hand is well relaxed to eliminate
excessive bow hand torque.
3. Decrease peak bow weight.
4. Choose a stiffer spine arrow.
P.S. Here's a link to the tuning guide. It's got lots of great info if you haven't already read it.
http://www.eastonarchery.com/pdf/tuning_guide.pdf
Last edited by marcusjb; 08-21-2009 at 08:41 AM.
08-21-2009, 11:58 PM
#19
Spike
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Barbour Co. West Virginia
Posts: 90
What Marcus said!.....It could be any number of things, and yes it could be centershot. If you are capable you can do any of this without much complication if you are a bit mechanically inclined.
I would say it is arrow spine most likely or torquing. I know your arrows fits the chart, but I don't believe charts too much, I believe what I see and that every bow and every way of setting up every bow has the potential for its own set of issues. When you have tuned literally thousands of bows, you notice things like that....That isn't a joke either...LOL!!!
Do you have any other arrows to try or can you try a friends? How about the shop, do they have any you can try out there in the shop? Try a bit stiffer shaft. If not you can crank the poundage down a bit but you have to be sure you keep everything in tune while doing it. If you wish to attempt it, mark your limb bolts and the limb with a mark. Turn each limb bolt counter-clowckwise exactly one turn each for 2 or 3 turns total. For instance turn the top one till the marks come back around one time, then do the bottom, then back to the top, etc. keep this sequence till you get the number you wish to try.
Once you get this accomplished try the paper at 10ft again. Also be sure you aren't choking the life out of the grip. Soft, like holding your elderly grandmothers hand!
Let us know what happens
I would say it is arrow spine most likely or torquing. I know your arrows fits the chart, but I don't believe charts too much, I believe what I see and that every bow and every way of setting up every bow has the potential for its own set of issues. When you have tuned literally thousands of bows, you notice things like that....That isn't a joke either...LOL!!!
Do you have any other arrows to try or can you try a friends? How about the shop, do they have any you can try out there in the shop? Try a bit stiffer shaft. If not you can crank the poundage down a bit but you have to be sure you keep everything in tune while doing it. If you wish to attempt it, mark your limb bolts and the limb with a mark. Turn each limb bolt counter-clowckwise exactly one turn each for 2 or 3 turns total. For instance turn the top one till the marks come back around one time, then do the bottom, then back to the top, etc. keep this sequence till you get the number you wish to try.
Once you get this accomplished try the paper at 10ft again. Also be sure you aren't choking the life out of the grip. Soft, like holding your elderly grandmothers hand!
Let us know what happens
08-23-2009, 11:51 PM
#20
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: SE Ohio
Posts: 2,531
You need to be shooting the 4560's or put 125gr tips on the 6075's, that would help.
If you're seeing the arrows whip a little, you're wasting your time with paper!!!
First thing you need to do is make sure you don't have a CLEARANCE ISSUE, because if you do, then you'll need to fix that first.
As far as the peep issue goes, if you don't have GOOD STRING, then you need to get a TUBED peep so it STAYS aligned. I use a tubed peep even on my bows that have GOOD STRINGS because I KNOW that the peep will be aligned whenever I draw the bow. Would you give up 5fps for consistency??? I know I certainly will.
In all honesty, I believe PAPER TUNING is the BIGGEST waste of time a guy can do when trying to get a bow set up!!!! I generally eyeball everything, shoot a few arrows, zero a pin, and do a walk-back. After doing a Walk-back, THEN your Centershot will be SET!!! After a Walk-Back, I screw on some BH's and "tweak."
Get right spine arrows, and the whole process will come much easier to you.
