drockw

How would you broadhead tune a bow with glue in tips???

Derek

OHbowhntr

Same way I would a bow with screw in tips, but if those arrows don't spin STRAIGHT, I'd not even try. I don't make any changes to my BH's when I BH tune, I only adjust the rest in small increments trying to get FP and BH's to same POI.

drockw

What i meant was that what if he isnt using inserts in his arrows and is using a glue in field tip. Then he cant bh tune b/c you cant just take the other points out and screw in some broadheads. You have to work a little bit harder with that kind of setup. Walkback, group tuning, etc...

Derek

TFOX

To be honest,if a person doesn't know what he is doing,then no tuning at all is better than paper tuning.You can really throw a bow out of whack if you don't know what you are doing,ESPECIALLY if the arrow spine is wrong or they torque the bow really bad.I would rather see that person have it eyeballed in at a true proshop and go shoot than screw around moving the rest to get a good tear in paper.


BUT,paper is a great learning tool if the person has done his homework and is using it in the right manner.I used paper for hours working on not torquing my bow.I would shoot in the garage for hours through paper just seeing what kinds of tears I would get from different grips and when I found one I liked,see how consistant I could be with it.



To answer the question,shoot with the paper level and square to the shooter.It should also be tight and not loose and wrinkled.

OHbowhntr

Derek,
I suppose I didn't really think about that, I guess, I don't even know anyone that uses glue in tips in all honesty. But I'd think if you set up on arrow with Glue-ins, and one with BH's, you could do that, but if their TARGET only arrows, then I can see where that may be the case that paper tuning is the only good option. Either way, I'd think the only way to guarantee a perfect bullet hole would be to make sure the paper is at a 90* angle from the shooter's arrow.

TFOX

If they are target only arrows then the ONLY thing that matters are groups,doesn't really matter if there is a tear or not.


I have shot target arrows that shoot bulletholes when I get done tuning and I have shot them that tear a little in paper.I don't care if my groups are tight.

I use paper in conjunction with many other tuning devices,as listed in my sticky at the top.I like paper but it isn't the do all end all to tuning.

If one knows what he is doing with paper,he can get things really close with it.If he doesn't,he can really screw things up.

peregordusmc

WOW didnt realize this question would stir up so much stuff. lol. I got my answer and those that answered it thank you. For those that dont paper tune thats cool too. I know other people who think they dont need to paper tune too and thats just personal preference. They still shootpretty good too.I just like todo evey bit of tuning i can. I use paper for flight and form consistency. I do walk back, bh, grouping....all of it. plus practice as much as i can.The more you shoot the better you get.So it dont matter to me if paper tuning is a waste of time. Its really just more practice if anything and thats not wasted time.

bigcountry

I know its off topic, but I use paper tuning for my trad bows quite a bit. Just for "blank bale shooting". it will tell you a lot about your release, and form.

Another good use of paper tune is culling out arrows. (yes, I learned this off of Len) Lets say I have bow bare shaft tuned, broadhead tuned, and want to go thru my arrows and find spine inconsistencies or fletch orientation. Paper tune is great for this. Unless you want to BH tune or bare shaft tune them all.

I think its an ok (get you in the ball park tool). But the proof is in the pudding for a hunter. And when the moment happens for a shot you want to know where that arrow is going. And thats with BH's.

drockw

I just setup my easton fatboy 400's last night. I had 100gr. glue in tips in them. TFOX helped me alot to make sure they were the right length and everything to get a close to perfect spine. I set them up with 2.3" duravanes, cut them to 29.5" and eyeballed my LD. I shot through paper at first to see where i was at. up and down was fine, but i had to work with the left and right a little bit to get it close to a bullet hole. That was all i did with paper, and after that i probably moved my rest 3 times before i was done tuning. I still have a bit to go, but its not too far off right now. Who knows where my tear would be in the paper now??? Im not too worried about it though

OHbowhunter,

i was just bringing up the idea that bh tuning isnt always the way to go b/c sometimes you cant. I didnt mean to sound like a smart a~~ if i did.

Derek

JeffB

Not a fan of harcore paper tuning myself, generally only use it when I've got a problem I cannot figure out- not as an initial step/part f setup... but I do have one tip-

Forget the butcher style paper and invest in a roll of WAX paper. Far easier to see exactly what is going on.