new bow tuning question?
 

I am new to compound bow shooting. I am trying to adjust my sight and peep on my new bow. HoweverI found that the string can not touch my nose top when I make a full draw.(trying to figure out an anchor point myself) The string is couple of inchs in front of my nose. And the peep sight (3/16" hole)seems too small/far from me. I can't see the outside ring of the sight through the peep hole. And my question is: do I need to adjust the draw length of the now or do I need a larger hole peep? Thanks a lot!

RE: new bow tuning question?
 

This is the reason I loathe short bows. It makes folks use too long draw length so they can touch thier nose or use a kisser. It really depends on your axle to axle length and your draw length. For 29" or under draw, I think nothing under 34" Axle to axle. Just an opinion, not gospel. For 29-31, a 36-37" bow is good.

Maybe post some full draw pics showing your anchor. With these 30" bows, you would be way over drawn to be able to touch your nose.

And on the peep, first get your draw length lined out then you might have to use a different diameter peep. It depends on your sight too.

RE: new bow tuning question?
 

You got exact the point, Great knowledge! My bow is 30" axle to axle. The draw length is 28" right now. I think it is a little bit short or about right (I don't know what is RIGHT [&:] don't laugh). Thinking about changing it to 28.5" or 29". Haven't got a chance to do so. Or change to a larger diameter peep maybe easier to do by myself.

RE: new bow tuning question?
 

bigcountry is spot on. My personal setup is a 34 ATA and 28" draw. This allows me to put the tip of my nose on the string.

Get that draw length correct first. If you don't, and its too long, you'll give yourself fits. You may find that you need to change your anchor point on your face/chin area to get a comfortable, repeatable anchor.

When I first started setting up my own bows, I learned very quickly that in order to get the most accuracy out of myself and the bow, I needed to find an anchor that worked best for me, then set the bow up. This involved getting the draw length correct first, then finding an anchor I could repeat with the utmost comfort.

Shorten your draw length up first. Now, nock an arrow and point it in a safe direction. Close your eyes and draw the bow. Find a place on your face/chin area that you can nestle your nuckle into comfortably. Keep doing this, shortening or lengthening the draw length until you find what feels comfortable to you and you can repeat. Once you get this, you can then set up your peep and rest of the bow.

RE: new bow tuning question?
 

Yep... good stuff from BC. It's why I've always loved 34 - 36" a-to-a bows. Gives me an easy-to-replicate third reference point.

RE: new bow tuning question?
 

I'll bet most of you guys would find that your preferred axle-to-axle is real close to the "sleeve length" of your dress shirt. For some reason, that seems to be a good starting point, anyhow. It probably has something to do with that picture by DaVinci. Anyhow....

I really dislike the short A-A bows. I got one about 2 years ago, and liked it when I got it, but the more I shot it, and the more I tried to achieve "absolute accuracy" with it, the more I hated it. I couldn't wait to sell it off, and go back to a 34.5" A-A.

It sounds to me like fantarain's draw length is more than the 28" he's set up for, and depending on the brace height of his bow, the strings could be coming in at a real sharp angle @ full draw, in which case the peep won't ever "get right", and the string will always be some distance from his nose. My suggestion would be to go to a shop and try a bow with at least a 33" A-A length and a 29" draw length, and see if that doesn't put the string right at your nosetip. As far as an anchor point with the hand, I always encourage new shooters to start with the knuckle of their thumb shoved into that one spot under the jawbone, just about an inch in front of the ear, where it really hurts to apply pressure. (For most people, it can be found by bending the thumb, laying it up under the jawbone about even with the lips, and then pressing in and up. Draw your hand back, slowly, and about half way back to the ear, it should become painful. That's the starting spot, for anchoring.)

RE: new bow tuning question?
 

Yesterday I have changed my draw length from 28" to 29". It feels more comfortable to me now. However the peep is still a little far from my eye when making a full draw. Therefore, the peep hole is too small to see the sight ring through it. I think it is because of the short ATA length (30") of my bow. (when I try touse finger instead of using release, the peep position is close enough for me and I can see the sight ring through the peep well, but I don't use finger to shoot) Anybody has experience with short ATA bow and can give mesomesuggestion on how to solve this problem?

RE: new bow tuning question?
 

I'm a bit confused as how going with a 1" longer draw length helped your problem??, but to address your peep issue:

1. Try a bigger peep. 2. you didn't say what type of release you use, but if you have an adjustable caliper release, try shortening thatto bring the peep closer to you, but you'll haveto adjustyour anchor point. 3. If you use a loop, shorten that up as well or as a last resort, you could shoot off the string.

RE: new bow tuning question?
 

Its fairly common that folks want to be able to touch thier nose to the string. If you have a short ATA bow, the string angle is much more severe. So for one to be able to keep thier head angle straight, they have to overdraw the bow.

RE: new bow tuning question?
 

Very common imo. You see alot of people doing this, and instead of correcting it by finding the right anchor or draw length, they anchor beside their nose instead of nose tip on string:eek:

Id say throw a bigger peep in there and see how it feels, and how you group. If you feel that you arent comfortable with the short ata bow, you may think about trying out some longer ata bows.

Derek

RE: new bow tuning question?
 

yes. Get a different bow.

bigcountry nailed it. Sell this one and buy a bow with a 34-inch-ish Axle-to-Axle dimension.

Right at the start of the 2007 archery season, I got a Mathews Switchback XT (31" A-A) and never really got comfortable or extremely accurate with it. I don't think I ever could have, either, with my 30" DL. I solved all my problems by following the above advice. My two bows are 34.5" and 33".

RE: new bow tuning question?
 

It's not always solely a problem with the axle to axle- It's string angle in particular, and I've had bows with 31" A2A that had better string angle than some longer bows- it has as much to do with the size of the cams, where the string exits them and just how far the limbs are travelling at full draw. My AM35 and Admiral have roughly the same amount of string angle for example. My GT500 had less closed angle than the AM35

(edit-trying to remember my geometry teminology, unsuccessfully)

RE: new bow tuning question?
 

I think most of the guys here have things figured out pretty well. Unfortunately the vast majorrity don't and that's why these "too short bows" are getting more common.

Not sure I agree with BruceW, though. Doing a little mental math I have about a 26.5 to 27" draw. I have a 68 wingspan and my preference for bow length still hovers around the 36" to 39" range. That's a pretty fur piece off my 32" sleeve length. And beelieve me, I've got three 32-33" bows here right now and still find that about 37" feels much better when speaking of string angle, stability, and aiming.

So anyway, doing that mental math thing I'd say most people would shoot better and feel more comfortable shooting somethingat least1/2 their wingspan or even a little more. I wonder if saying draw length plus 6" would work out? I'll have to think about that.

RE: new bow tuning question?
 

My anchor when I shot a recurve was the center of my chin and nose with a 27 3/4 inch draw and had a 300 average indoors.When I went to a compound I had the anchor off to the side on my chin because of the string angle . Same draw and same average indoors, Than I started wearing glasses and had to anchor off to the side of my nose because I couldn't see through the frame of the glasses with the same draw and still a 300 average indoors.I had surgery on my eyes and no more glasses. I tried going back to the center of my nose, but my 3 arrow group really opened up on me from the size of a quarter to the size of a base ball at 40 yards so I have went back to the side of my nose. The other day it was really nice out so went out to shoot. Shot 4 round of 3 arrow group at 40 yards and on my 4 th round I Robin Hooded one of my Fat Boys. Peed me off so I went back into the house. Ihadput all 16 shots dead center of the spot at 40 yards , but thats way I shoot only 3 arrows to agroup is to try keeping that from happening. Arrow are to expensive to do that it sucks[:@]

RE: new bow tuning question?
 

i have a question regarding my 2007 black ice bow..i have a 70 pound...it doesnt feel like im pulling 70 tho..i took it to archery shops few times to have them test weight and they keep telling me that it is in fact set at 70...they told me the way the cams are designed on this bow, the draw is very smooth and effortless to pull...but using my handheld bow scale, it reads 61 pounds..so i dont know what to believe..what do you think? ...-Dave

RE: new bow tuning question?
 

If you are weighing your bow with a Cardoza hand-held scale then don't believe it. These things are notorious for being 5-6 pounds too light. If it's a difital then I can't comment.

The one at the shop may be a couple pounds light. It really isn't important whether the bow draws 70# or not. What you need to do is use one or the other and just use it for a reference in case you make any changes to the bow at a later date.

It's been said many times before and I'll repeat it here. There is nothing walking this continent that requires a 70# bow except our egos. If your bow is drawing 67-68 then that is fine. Even 65# will dump anything you're going to hunt.

An important thing to consider is that archery/bowhunting is not a sport where brute strength is required. If you can draw a bow with ease and shoot it accurately then that's the way it's supposed to be. With a little lighter draw weight you can practice longer and work on shooting form with greater ease. Accuracy is what this is all about.

All the kinetic energy in the world is not worth a hoot if you can't put it where it does the most good.

Now ll this ranting of mine brings me to another point. You can double check a couple things to see if your bow is within factory specs. Namely the advertised axle-to-axle length and brace height. If the A2A is a little long and the brace height is a little high then the bow may need to be adjusted by twisitng the string and/or cable to put more prebend in the limbs. And if you don't know how to do this then that's what shops are for.

RE: new bow tuning question?
 

Very wise words and sig-worthy!