new bow tuning question?
#1
Spike
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: VA
Posts: 53
new bow tuning question?
I am new to compound bow shooting. I am trying to adjust my sight and peep on my new bow. HoweverI found that the string can not touch my nose top when I make a full draw.(trying to figure out an anchor point myself) The string is couple of inchs in front of my nose. And the peep sight (3/16" hole)seems too small/far from me. I can't see the outside ring of the sight through the peep hole. And my question is: do I need to adjust the draw length of the now or do I need a larger hole peep? Thanks a lot!
#2
Guest
Posts: n/a
RE: new bow tuning question?
ORIGINAL: fantarain
I am new to compound bow shooting. I am trying to adjust my sight and peep on my new bow. HoweverI found that the string can not touch my nose top when I make a full draw.(trying to figure out an anchor point myself) The string is couple of inchs in front of my nose. And the peep sight (3/16" hole)seems too small/far from me. I can't see the outside ring of the sight through the peep hole. And my question is: do I need to adjust the draw length of the now or do I need a larger hole peep? Thanks a lot!
I am new to compound bow shooting. I am trying to adjust my sight and peep on my new bow. HoweverI found that the string can not touch my nose top when I make a full draw.(trying to figure out an anchor point myself) The string is couple of inchs in front of my nose. And the peep sight (3/16" hole)seems too small/far from me. I can't see the outside ring of the sight through the peep hole. And my question is: do I need to adjust the draw length of the now or do I need a larger hole peep? Thanks a lot!
Maybe post some full draw pics showing your anchor. With these 30" bows, you would be way over drawn to be able to touch your nose.
And on the peep, first get your draw length lined out then you might have to use a different diameter peep. It depends on your sight too.
#3
Spike
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: VA
Posts: 53
RE: new bow tuning question?
You got exact the point, Great knowledge! My bow is 30" axle to axle. The draw length is 28" right now. I think it is a little bit short or about right (I don't know what is RIGHT [&:] don't laugh). Thinking about changing it to 28.5" or 29". Haven't got a chance to do so. Or change to a larger diameter peep maybe easier to do by myself.
ORIGINAL: bigcountry
This is the reason I loathe short bows. It makes folks use too long draw length so they can touch thier nose or use a kisser. It really depends on your axle to axle length and your draw length. For 29" or under draw, I think nothing under 34" Axle to axle. Just an opinion, not gospel. For 29-31, a 36-37" bow is good.
Maybe post some full draw pics showing your anchor. With these 30" bows, you would be way over drawn to be able to touch your nose.
And on the peep, first get your draw length lined out then you might have to use a different diameter peep. It depends on your sight too.
This is the reason I loathe short bows. It makes folks use too long draw length so they can touch thier nose or use a kisser. It really depends on your axle to axle length and your draw length. For 29" or under draw, I think nothing under 34" Axle to axle. Just an opinion, not gospel. For 29-31, a 36-37" bow is good.
Maybe post some full draw pics showing your anchor. With these 30" bows, you would be way over drawn to be able to touch your nose.
And on the peep, first get your draw length lined out then you might have to use a different diameter peep. It depends on your sight too.
#4
RE: new bow tuning question?
bigcountry is spot on. My personal setup is a 34 ATA and 28" draw. This allows me to put the tip of my nose on the string.
Get that draw length correct first. If you don't, and its too long, you'll give yourself fits. You may find that you need to change your anchor point on your face/chin area to get a comfortable, repeatable anchor.
When I first started setting up my own bows, I learned very quickly that in order to get the most accuracy out of myself and the bow, I needed to find an anchor that worked best for me, then set the bow up. This involved getting the draw length correct first, then finding an anchor I could repeat with the utmost comfort.
Shorten your draw length up first. Now, nock an arrow and point it in a safe direction. Close your eyes and draw the bow. Find a place on your face/chin area that you can nestle your nuckle into comfortably. Keep doing this, shortening or lengthening the draw length until you find what feels comfortable to you and you can repeat. Once you get this, you can then set up your peep and rest of the bow.
Get that draw length correct first. If you don't, and its too long, you'll give yourself fits. You may find that you need to change your anchor point on your face/chin area to get a comfortable, repeatable anchor.
When I first started setting up my own bows, I learned very quickly that in order to get the most accuracy out of myself and the bow, I needed to find an anchor that worked best for me, then set the bow up. This involved getting the draw length correct first, then finding an anchor I could repeat with the utmost comfort.
Shorten your draw length up first. Now, nock an arrow and point it in a safe direction. Close your eyes and draw the bow. Find a place on your face/chin area that you can nestle your nuckle into comfortably. Keep doing this, shortening or lengthening the draw length until you find what feels comfortable to you and you can repeat. Once you get this, you can then set up your peep and rest of the bow.
#6
RE: new bow tuning question?
I'll bet most of you guys would find that your preferred axle-to-axle is real close to the "sleeve length" of your dress shirt. For some reason, that seems to be a good starting point, anyhow. It probably has something to do with that picture by DaVinci. Anyhow....
I really dislike the short A-A bows. I got one about 2 years ago, and liked it when I got it, but the more I shot it, and the more I tried to achieve "absolute accuracy" with it, the more I hated it. I couldn't wait to sell it off, and go back to a 34.5" A-A.
It sounds to me like fantarain's draw length is more than the 28" he's set up for, and depending on the brace height of his bow, the strings could be coming in at a real sharp angle @ full draw, in which case the peep won't ever "get right", and the string will always be some distance from his nose. My suggestion would be to go to a shop and try a bow with at least a 33" A-A length and a 29" draw length, and see if that doesn't put the string right at your nosetip. As far as an anchor point with the hand, I always encourage new shooters to start with the knuckle of their thumb shoved into that one spot under the jawbone, just about an inch in front of the ear, where it really hurts to apply pressure. (For most people, it can be found by bending the thumb, laying it up under the jawbone about even with the lips, and then pressing in and up. Draw your hand back, slowly, and about half way back to the ear, it should become painful. That's the starting spot, for anchoring.)
I really dislike the short A-A bows. I got one about 2 years ago, and liked it when I got it, but the more I shot it, and the more I tried to achieve "absolute accuracy" with it, the more I hated it. I couldn't wait to sell it off, and go back to a 34.5" A-A.
It sounds to me like fantarain's draw length is more than the 28" he's set up for, and depending on the brace height of his bow, the strings could be coming in at a real sharp angle @ full draw, in which case the peep won't ever "get right", and the string will always be some distance from his nose. My suggestion would be to go to a shop and try a bow with at least a 33" A-A length and a 29" draw length, and see if that doesn't put the string right at your nosetip. As far as an anchor point with the hand, I always encourage new shooters to start with the knuckle of their thumb shoved into that one spot under the jawbone, just about an inch in front of the ear, where it really hurts to apply pressure. (For most people, it can be found by bending the thumb, laying it up under the jawbone about even with the lips, and then pressing in and up. Draw your hand back, slowly, and about half way back to the ear, it should become painful. That's the starting spot, for anchoring.)
#7
Spike
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: VA
Posts: 53
RE: new bow tuning question?
Yesterday I have changed my draw length from 28" to 29". It feels more comfortable to me now. However the peep is still a little far from my eye when making a full draw. Therefore, the peep hole is too small to see the sight ring through it. I think it is because of the short ATA length (30") of my bow. (when I try touse finger instead of using release, the peep position is close enough for me and I can see the sight ring through the peep well, but I don't use finger to shoot) Anybody has experience with short ATA bow and can give mesomesuggestion on how to solve this problem?
#8
RE: new bow tuning question?
I'm a bit confused as how going with a 1" longer draw length helped your problem??, but to address your peep issue:
1. Try a bigger peep. 2. you didn't say what type of release you use, but if you have an adjustable caliper release, try shortening thatto bring the peep closer to you, but you'll haveto adjustyour anchor point. 3. If you use a loop, shorten that up as well or as a last resort, you could shoot off the string.
1. Try a bigger peep. 2. you didn't say what type of release you use, but if you have an adjustable caliper release, try shortening thatto bring the peep closer to you, but you'll haveto adjustyour anchor point. 3. If you use a loop, shorten that up as well or as a last resort, you could shoot off the string.
#9
Guest
Posts: n/a
RE: new bow tuning question?
ORIGINAL: IAhuntr
I'm a bit confused as how going with a 1" longer draw length helped your problem??, but to address your peep issue:
1. Try a bigger peep. 2. you didn't say what type of release you use, but if you have an adjustable caliper release, try shortening thatto bring the peep closer to you, but you'll haveto adjustyour anchor point. 3. If you use a loop, shorten that up as well or as a last resort, you could shoot off the string.
I'm a bit confused as how going with a 1" longer draw length helped your problem??, but to address your peep issue:
1. Try a bigger peep. 2. you didn't say what type of release you use, but if you have an adjustable caliper release, try shortening thatto bring the peep closer to you, but you'll haveto adjustyour anchor point. 3. If you use a loop, shorten that up as well or as a last resort, you could shoot off the string.
#10
RE: new bow tuning question?
ORIGINAL: bigcountry
Its fairly common that folks want to be able to touch thier nose to the string. If you have a short ATA bow, the string angle is much more severe. So for one to be able to keep thier head angle straight, they have to overdraw the bow.
ORIGINAL: IAhuntr
I'm a bit confused as how going with a 1" longer draw length helped your problem??, but to address your peep issue:
1. Try a bigger peep. 2. you didn't say what type of release you use, but if you have an adjustable caliper release, try shortening thatto bring the peep closer to you, but you'll haveto adjustyour anchor point. 3. If you use a loop, shorten that up as well or as a last resort, you could shoot off the string.
I'm a bit confused as how going with a 1" longer draw length helped your problem??, but to address your peep issue:
1. Try a bigger peep. 2. you didn't say what type of release you use, but if you have an adjustable caliper release, try shortening thatto bring the peep closer to you, but you'll haveto adjustyour anchor point. 3. If you use a loop, shorten that up as well or as a last resort, you could shoot off the string.
Id say throw a bigger peep in there and see how it feels, and how you group. If you feel that you arent comfortable with the short ata bow, you may think about trying out some longer ata bows.
Derek