Nock High Tear
 

Folks, I'm looking for some advice after spending hours fiddling at papertuning. I've just bought and fitted a NAP Quiktune 3000, and despite changing nock height (up and down to extremes) and spring tension (solid to &quot;floppy&quot;) I'm left with an upright tear of about 3 inches with bare shafts. Fleching &quot;fixes&quot; this but I know what I see when the fleching is off. I just unhappy with the result! My setup is a 2001 BK2, 65lb draw, 28&quot; draw length (string loop), 27,5&quot; Beman ICSH 400 with 100grain tips. Fletching is 3 x 4&quot; feathers. I tried my Carbon Express Terminator CamoHunters with a similar effect, only the tear was now 4 inches long!!! <img src=icon_smile_sad.gif border=0 align=middle>. Centreshot appears fine. Any advice is welcomed. Thanks, Mark.
PS&gt; My previous rest was a Quiktune 1000 and I had no problems.

RE: Nock High Tear
 

try adjusting the sping tension so that it takes less force to push the rest down. the rest may be so rigid due to the spring tension that the arrow isn't able to flex the way it should.

RE: Nock High Tear
 

mlj64,
Roll the paper up into a big ball, and use any wood from the paper tuner to build a fire and roast some marshmellows!! Paper tuning, in my opinion, is a waste of time. The best way to tune your bow is to shoot it. There are some base measurements that need to be &quot;close.&quot; You can then fine tune your bow by group tuning and/or supertuning. Group tune your arrows at different distances and keep accurate records in regards to accuracy. This will do more to tell you how your bow is performing than shooting your arrows through the &quot;funnies section.&quot; I get a good laugh out of guys who stand in front of a piece of paper as if it is the great archery oracle. Dont' waste your time, PLEASE! --Ike

RE: Nock High Tear
 

Ike, I agree to a point, but a 3&quot; tear is an awful lot, especially with a bare shaft. Sure doesn't sound like his bow is launching arrows as efficiently as it should. I had a &quot;pro&quot; paper tune my bow at 20 yards. Nice bullet hole. I stepped up to 6 feet and got a gawd awful tear. He told me you can't tune that close, you gotta give the arrow time to stabilize.... I went home, set my bow up properly, got an easy bullet hole at 6' and good groups at various yardages, and picked up over 20 fps from where he had it &quot;tuned&quot; at... Something sure sounds wrong with mlj64's new rest, as apparently it is the only new variable added since he was getting good results.

RE: Nock High Tear
 

3&quot; tears are unacceptable with any setup, and I have to disagree that papertuning is a waste of time. To the contrary, it is a great &quot;starting point&quot; in the tuning process. One cannot shoot for beans with a 3&quot; tear, and you'll drive yourself nutty trying to get it out simply by group tuning. One needs to start somewhere, and throwing a bullet hole or 1/4&quot; tail-high left tear normally is a great place to start.

Now to the problem. If you are throwing correctly spined arrows with a straight-up tear and spring tension and nock height doesn't do squat, you may need to re-time your bow. I find it hard to believe that this rest alone will produce this amount of trouble if you had no problems with your other one. Try your old one just for the heck of it, and see if you can still get good results, could be you were geting a false read. Luckily you have a twin cam, and re-timing if needed can be done quite easily. If you find you do have problems also with your old rest, put your spring tension to middle of the road, and re-time your bow.Then set your nock height approx 1/8&quot; above centerline, and then try it again. You may need to advance one cam slightly more than the other depending upon tear and release style and hookup. You can also try adding a pound or two to one limb or another, this may bring it in without the re-time, however I feel that a re-time would probably be a good thing in this case if the spring tension doesn't do it for you and the results are the same with your old rest if not, go back to your old rest!! Good luck, Pinwheel 12

Edited by - Pinwheel 12 on 01/23/2002 16:07:26

RE: Nock High Tear
 

Thanks for the replies. To be fair to the rest, I have made the assumption that nothing went out of tune over the past 3-4 weeks. The groups at 18 meptres never really opened up but, as I mentioned in my first post, the fletching does a remarkable amount of correcting. I'll have a peek at the cam timing this evening. Thanks, Mark.

RE: Nock High Tear
 

A little followup. On checking the timing, it looked perfect; the cams broke over synchronously and evenly. Nevertheless, after much &quot;fiddling&quot;, I settled for 1/2 turn to the lower cable. The tear lessened to about 10mm. I'll continue to ponder on this because I can feel that momentary hesitation since the cams are out of time. Adjusting limb bolts made no difference. Tiller is even. My groups (with fletch) at 18m are acceptable - arrows touch. Thanks again for your insights.

RE: Nock High Tear
 

The arrows are most likely a little overspined and if fletching cures the problem and they group well then I would just shoot and forget the paper.A string loop will allow you to use a slightly lighter spined arrow and with no fletching that may be the only problem.

I know the ICS chart says they are correct but you would be amazed at how many charts play to the stiff side just for a little margin of error to the stiff side is better than to the light side.


I disagree that an arrow can't be tuned close.If the spine is dead on it will tune at 6' as well as 20',I have done it with the help of Archers Advantage.I will say that my 3d arrow will not and as long as they group,I could care less.

I have a friend that shoots the semi pro class and he shoots arrows that are so stiff that they will tear that bad or worse with fletching,he still finished in the top 10 in points last year in the ASA.

RE: Nock High Tear
 

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote<font size=1 face='Verdana, Arial, Helvetica' id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
Folks, I'm looking for some advice after spending hours fiddling at papertuning. I've just bought and fitted a NAP Quiktune 3000, and despite changing nock height (up and down to extremes) and spring tension (solid to &quot;floppy&quot;) I'm left with an upright tear of about 3 inches with bare shafts. Fleching &quot;fixes&quot; this but I know what I see when the fleching is off. I just unhappy with the result! My setup is a 2001 BK2, 65lb draw, 28&quot; draw length (string loop), 27,5&quot; Beman ICSH 400 with 100grain tips. Fletching is 3 x 4&quot; feathers. I tried my Carbon Express Terminator CamoHunters with a similar effect, only the tear was now 4 inches long!!! <img src=icon_smile_sad.gif border=0 align=middle>. Centreshot appears fine. Any advice is welcomed. Thanks, Mark.
PS&gt; My previous rest was a Quiktune 1000 and I had no problems.
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RE: Nock High Tear
 

TFox-

Just think, maybe if he had correctly spined and tuned arrows he could've been in the top 5, or even 3! <img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle>Nothing beats a well-tuned machine, my friend! Good shooting, Pinwheel 12