For the still un-educated on the subject. When paper tuning, how far from the paper should you be when shooting? Also should you paper tune with slick arrows or fletchings on?

thanks

Cargo

Cargo, I usually do it starting from 5-6' then back up to different distances to make sure I'm not just getting lucky at the shorter distance and getting a favorable tear based on arrow paradox. I don't bare shaft tune unless I am having problems achieving the tear I'm after. Bare shaft tuning will rule out any fletching contact issues that may be present and affecting the tear...

nock high tear,
two things i would do. 1) check to see if your fletching is hitting anywhere on the rest. 2)why change a good thing? the quick tune 1000 is a good rest, i use one myself and have had no problems with it at all. the forks should sit at about a 45 degree angle to the arrow.
good luck dont give up.

Redandgold, the tears were on bare shaft tuning. With fletching, the (4" featehers) there is no noticeable tear. Reviewing the Easton Tuning guide, my bare shafts hit below the fletched ones suggesting overspine. I'll try some 125 grain points in an attempt to fix this.
Mark

Have you done the timing check using the creep method. I heard about it from George Ryals from Martin and it works super. If you are unfamiliar with it, let me know and I will explain it the way George did.

It's what alot of us call &quot;supertuning&quot;, and is mentioned often by myself and others here. This technique is nothing new, George mentioned it recently on another board and you'd think it was Christmastime, but some of us have been tuning like this for many years. Emery Loiselle, (one of the greatest techs I've ever met) mentions it in one of his books way back in the 70's. I've explained it here a few times before, but if you feel like typing, be my guest!<img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle> Welcome to the board! Good shooting, Pinwheel 12

Edited by - Pinwheel 12 on 01/26/2002 05:57:34

I knew George didn't invent it and I didn't feel like typing it again either unless they haven't heard of it. Thanks pinwheel!

Pinwheel

I do agree that a well tuned machine will be more forgiving.

My friend that I speak of does go too far with overspining IMO,but the point is if it groups well and he shoots it well,then at 3d distances,it isn't as much of a factor.

mlj64,doesn't have a problem with an arrow with vanes on them ,so I really don't think he needs to worry much.

If a person isn't shooting 90 meters,I don't think that supertuning is all that necessary,you can have a well tuned bow without going to the extremes of supertuning.

After another few frustrating hours attempting to correct that remaining tear, I decided to go right back to square one! Took the bow apart, checked the axles and cams, cables and string. Re-assembled the lot, re-installed all the components and started the tuning process from scratch. Within about an hour of flinging the 1st arrow my problems were solved. I know of that supertuning procedure but have not used it. I do not know what I &quot;fixed&quot; since there no loose &quot;nuts'n bolts&quot;; the bullet hole just appeared.<img src=icon_smile_blush.gif border=0 align=middle>. Oh yes, I did not change the arrows or the tips. I'm just grateful the issue is now resolved. Thanks for all the feedback and the advice.
Mark

I'd also suspect spine. Try increasing or decreasing your tip weight, effectively changing spine. If dropping weight decreases the tear, that earth scorching BK2 has you underspined...which wouldn't suprise me all that much.