mfd1027

Man, your ingenuity is really impressive. I've already got one of your presses and now I guess I'll just have to stand by until you work out all the kinks on your "cammirror" tool and put em out. Keep the inventions coming!!

Dan

walks with a gimp

Thanks for the kind words
Here's the latest version made out of Lexan, tough stuff and a great finish. I think this will be the materal to work with and now I'm small parts hunting. [/align]

walks with a gimp

I CaMirrorized my '07 3D Guardian today.. It has been very accurate and shot great last summer. The module stops were hitting at the same time but the CaMirror showed a 1/4 inch difference gap on the top cam as compared to the bottom. I put it in the press and took a turn out, made 1/8" difference for the better. Pressed it again and it was spot on top to bottom. Checked the module stops at full draw again and the bottom cam was late in hitting the stop.
Looking the bow over, the cables cross above the guard rod and the cable angles are very different going to the cams. I then switched the slide upside down and crossed the cables below the guard and checked the cams again for roll over match. They were spot on this time with perfect timing. Guys, we've been setting these bows up all along to stop on the cables that are in the wrong position. What we've been doing is compromizing synchronization at brace to match unequal cable angles at full draw.

Here's a pic of my Guardian with the cables crossing above the rod as from the factory. It's easy to see that the cable angles are vastly different.Switching them to cross below made all the difference in synchronization at full draw. In reality, if the cams are sync'd at brace they are still in sync at full draw but the unequal cable angles and out of time mod stops make us think they are out of sync.
Here's hoping a change will come soon that has the manufactures making slight changes to the modules that will take into consideration where the cables cross and where the roller guard/cable rod is located.

mfd1027

Let me ask you this and forgive me if this is a stupid question. Will you now tune your Guardian with the cables on the underside and then put them back in the top position (factory) and accept that it is timed?

Dan

MGH_PA

Interesting. So the two inch radius you're mentioning is from the timing dots to where? The fact that the radius is so small, it doesn't show the errors as accurately or what? I suppose I'm confused as to why using the location of the draw stop modules in relation to the cables at full draw is an incorrect method synchronization? I understand you're saying it's a compromising the synch at brace, but how does that effect arrow flight?

Believe me, I'm not an expert, and I can see you know what you're doing, I just want some clarification. Thanks!

walks with a gimp

I'll be crossing the cables below the rod and looking for a different slide that gives a little more clearance between the cables. Really, it is very close with the cables crossed above that most shooters wouldn't feel the untimed module stops but I want mine right

muzzyman88

Russ, once again...you're my hero. You planning on selling those things?

ampahunter

Russ after looking at your system I tried something similar, not as intricate as your idea.
I first squared the bow in a bow vise, leveled all the axis's andthen checked my cam sync. At the bow's static position both cams were in sync.
Guess the old 07' Guardian will be around for years .

walks with a gimp

It's a good one!!!

walks with a gimp

The one to two inch radius is the distance between the cable or string (depening on the bow)to the cam's tuning marks. It's hard to judge one or two degrees of rotation with such a small radius but much easier with the tool at 11 inch radius. When we draw stop match at full draw it's so we don't feel that double bump and to gain the most consistent draw length (and accuracy/speed). It's doing nothing to synchronize the cams. Arrow flight probably won't be affected much either way,, I've seen a few people shoot with so much hand torque that arrow flight would not be affected by any means of tuning[&:]. What this tool will do is give you 95% of what your trying to do with draw stop matching and the other 5% is really not needed especailly if your cam stops the cam rotation before the module stops screw things up. However if your bow has an agreeable cable crossing and method of containment like the Guardian. you're probably going to find than module stop matching is right on the money.. The worst of the offenders are the roller guards and don't allow the cables to travel back with the cam axle centerlines. These have much different cable angles at full draw, where you think you need module stop matching