muzzyman88

If the string was being drawn from the exact center, then yes, this system should precisely be synched to mirror each other at brace and full draw. However, we don't draw from the center of the string. When setting the timing on these bows, it is very important to find your nock point first.

walks with a gimp

It dosen't matter where you draw the string from, it won't change the sync at full draw. Only the lengths of the stringabove and below the nock point will be different. The Binary system can only pay out string and take up cable at the same rate during the draw cycle. The only way it won't do so is if you have baldy worn, missing or different diameter serving on your string and cables.

walks with a gimp

I just checked my Guardian at brace with the CaMirror to make sure it was on and it was about 1/2 the thickness of the string off, about 1/2 a twist so I didn't mess with it. I then determined where the exact center of the string was by measuring from each axle (right at 17 inches) at brace. I only needed to pull the bottom knot down on my loop to give about an 1/8" gap between the bottom loop knot and my tied-in nock set so I could put the hook on in my crank board to check the bow at full draw. I drew the bow back until the first mod contact and then checked the cam rotation with the CaMirror. What I found was that there was just about the same difference between the top and bottom cam at full draw as there was at brace, about 1/2 the thickness of the string. This test showed definately that if the cams are in sync at brace, they are in sync also at full draw.

I pulled from the exact center of the string with the crankboard so I could get the exact same string angles above and below the hook of the cable. If I would have pulled from the normal above the center nock point, the string angle would have been slightly steeper above the nock point as compared to below the nock point. This would have given me false readings with the CaMirror.


Onside note, everytime I put a bow in my crank board I feel like I'm tortureing it[:@]The CaMirror is much kinder and faster

brucelanthier

I got my CaMirror a couple of days ago (thank you for the extremely fast process/shipping ) and finally got a chance to use it tonight. Previously I have been using a vernier caliper to measure from a spot on the cam to the limb and that has worked prettywell but doesn't give you a very clear picture of which cam needs to be rotated. Anyway, I get the bow steady in the press and get the CaMirror setup on one cam. Move it over to the other and it is off the string maybe a 1/16. So I add one twist to the cable on the first cam to rotate it . Reset the CaMirror on that cam and then move it over to the other one and things are right on! The CaMirror was great in that it easily showed me how far I was off and how I needed to rotate either cam to get them in sync. I thought this bow was in sync using my vernier caliper but the CaMirror is alittle more exacting.

Then I get the bow to full draw, as WWAG did with his,and measure things again. Still in sync!

Very nice tool for fine tuning a binary/dual cam bow. I would recommend getting this ifyou do your own bow work and have, or work on, a lot of binary/dual cam bows.

walks with a gimp

Good to see that you got it quickly Bruce. You may not use it often but it's fast and easy to see where you need attention and help your friends out with their's. You can keep very close track of string or cable stretchif you leave it set up after you make changes.I think A dealer could make easy work out of setting up new bows with it.

Thanks again!

MeanV2

Gotta Agree with everything you say Bruce!!

I have used my Camirror on my Captain, Sentinel, 82nd, and the Ross Carnivore. All with great results!!

The Camirror allows you to see tiny adjustments that are not possible without it. Even a half of a twist shows on the Camirror easily with it's increased radius.

If you do your own tuning, etc. this tool is a must have. Saves lots of time and does a more exact job to boot.

Dan

bigcountry

After reading this, I am interested. I wonder if a better way to sync would be to take the cables out of the slide and let them line themselves up perfect so thier angles are the same. Sync at rest with the Camirror, then make sure it hits the cables at teh same time. Put the slide and cables back together.

Interesting tool

walks with a gimp

I sync'd my Admiral with the Camirror while the cables were out of the roller guard and then put it back and it wasn't the same. Probably due to the amount each cable is pulled to the right (right handed bow). With the Center Track cams and roller guard, it's a no go I believe. With a bow that has the cables crossing VERY close to the center of the bow with a slide that doesn't spread the cables more or less than what occurs natrually, I think it's getting very close to being near the way it was engineered to work and a better condition exists with the longer ATA bows. If both the cables are on the same side of the cam, most Binarys are other thanthe Center Track, I think it's less of a problem having one cable pulled more than the other, like the Center Track Cams.

Fun to think about but really easy to see if you have the tool. Pretty easy to make one and try it anyway if you can make one that will work at least with your bow's cams.

mfd1027

Russ, you're a genius!! I got mine on Th. and have been going nuts because I couldn't play with my bow until last night. It took me about 2 min. to figure out that I was off one full twist on my upper cam. I pressed the bow made the adjustment and it was dead nuts when I rechecked it with my Camirror. Total time - 10 min. I will be in Ga. on Monday and will have to drop by my buddies shop to show off my new tool. He carry's all of the Bowtech's. I bet I find a bunch of bows in his stock that are out of sync. Man, this tool is easy to use!! It might be in my head but I swear I can feel the difference in reduced hand shock, noise, something.

Dan

walks with a gimp

Thanks for the kind words,,but I'm really, not that smart. Now some people are probably saying one twist?? The thing is that you're probably well schooled in bow tuning and had your bow dialed in good to begin with. The other thing is that it probably took you more than 10 minutes to get to that stage. The tool is just a shortcut to perfect balancing of Binary cams and you can leave itset to peridocally check for string and cable stretch.
I'll bet you will find some bows a little out, some maybe the Ross Cardiac might be further out. I spot checked a Desert Stryker crossbow and it was probably two twists out.
Have fun with your new toy at the shop!