Whammy Users.....
#1
Whammy Users.....
OK guys, I decided on a new rest to try out for a while, thanks in part to TFOX, the Spot Hogg Whammy. I haven't had a chance to install yet but was wondering for those that have, if you have any tips. I watched the video, read the instructions, etc and hope to get it setup this week.
One thing that I have already noticed though, is that on a Bowtech, its going to be very difficult, if not impossible to get this rest setup so that an arrow will pass through the berger holes on the bow. This concerns me as Ireally like to setup my bows to keep the arrow as low to the shelf as I can.
Anyway...lets here some input on this rest.
One thing that I have already noticed though, is that on a Bowtech, its going to be very difficult, if not impossible to get this rest setup so that an arrow will pass through the berger holes on the bow. This concerns me as Ireally like to setup my bows to keep the arrow as low to the shelf as I can.
Anyway...lets here some input on this rest.
#3
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 19
RE: Whammy Users.....
I used that rest on my bow. I had the dealer that I purchased the bow from install it for me. It works really well, the only issue I have with it is that it moves so fast, the screws loosen up as time goes on, so make sure you keep them all nice and tight. Especially the one that keeps the rest itself placed upright in the launching position.
#4
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Brampton Ontario Canada
Posts: 1,038
RE: Whammy Users.....
Muzzy, first, it will be impossible to get your arrow to run center with the burger button hole on the Bowtech. I've been using the Whammy rests now for the last three years and have triedall three generation launcher arms to get the arrow to run center and it will not happen.
You DO NOT want the launcher arms coming into contact with the riser shelf as it drops away. So for this reason you have to raise the rest higher and this will cause your arrow to line up above the burger hole.
This will not affect the flight of your arrow once you've taken the time to tune the bow.
Start by setting the arrow to string angle at 90 degrees. Make absolutely certain that your launcher arms when depressed have at least 1/16" gap away from the shelf, otherwise the arms will bounce back prematurely and make contact with the vanes. You will need to run a powder test to check for proper vane clearance.
As for serving the cord, at full draw have someone mark your 'up' cable about 1-1/2" to 1-3/4" below your cable guard.
Use this mark for serving your cord and serve towards the "bottom cam" from that point. DO NOT serve up towards the rest.
Insert the allen key (provided with the rest) into the hole ofthe trigger and snug the cord so that the bottom of the trigger hole lines up with the top of the rest block.
Examine that the cord does not turn into the path of the vanes at full draw...if this happens loosen the allen nut on the trigger (reinstall the allen key into the trigger hole and depress the trigger) thenrotate the cord 180 degrees, snug the cord up againand again check to confirm there is cord clearance away from the vane.
You'll need to do this everytime you make vertical adjustments to the rest, hopefully, you'll only need to do this once or twice.
You can start by setting the windage for center shot, but most times you will have to adjust left or right of center to achieve a good paper tear. This willdepend on your arrow spine, the BH weight, cam alignment, tiller balance, bow torque, string creep etc.
You will also need to use the tamers on the launcher arms, otherwise you'll'hear' the drag of the arrow while moving to full draw.
Of course arrow friction on the tamers will take its toll and depending on how often you shoot, the tamers will quite quickly need replacing.
When tuned properly the Whammy works really well.
Shoot with cocked vane 'up'.
You DO NOT want the launcher arms coming into contact with the riser shelf as it drops away. So for this reason you have to raise the rest higher and this will cause your arrow to line up above the burger hole.
This will not affect the flight of your arrow once you've taken the time to tune the bow.
Start by setting the arrow to string angle at 90 degrees. Make absolutely certain that your launcher arms when depressed have at least 1/16" gap away from the shelf, otherwise the arms will bounce back prematurely and make contact with the vanes. You will need to run a powder test to check for proper vane clearance.
As for serving the cord, at full draw have someone mark your 'up' cable about 1-1/2" to 1-3/4" below your cable guard.
Use this mark for serving your cord and serve towards the "bottom cam" from that point. DO NOT serve up towards the rest.
Insert the allen key (provided with the rest) into the hole ofthe trigger and snug the cord so that the bottom of the trigger hole lines up with the top of the rest block.
Examine that the cord does not turn into the path of the vanes at full draw...if this happens loosen the allen nut on the trigger (reinstall the allen key into the trigger hole and depress the trigger) thenrotate the cord 180 degrees, snug the cord up againand again check to confirm there is cord clearance away from the vane.
You'll need to do this everytime you make vertical adjustments to the rest, hopefully, you'll only need to do this once or twice.
You can start by setting the windage for center shot, but most times you will have to adjust left or right of center to achieve a good paper tear. This willdepend on your arrow spine, the BH weight, cam alignment, tiller balance, bow torque, string creep etc.
You will also need to use the tamers on the launcher arms, otherwise you'll'hear' the drag of the arrow while moving to full draw.
Of course arrow friction on the tamers will take its toll and depending on how often you shoot, the tamers will quite quickly need replacing.
When tuned properly the Whammy works really well.
Shoot with cocked vane 'up'.
#5
RE: Whammy Users.....
Ampahunter, thanks for the tips. Hopefully, I'll get to bolt it up tonight and get it going. I was looking at things last night and yes, the cable thing kind of perplexed me as well. If you follow Spot Hogg's instructions, it appears that the down cable will bind the pull cord to the rest at full draw since they are quite close toward the cable slide. I don't see any option other than mounting the cord on the cable further down the cable.
#6
RE: Whammy Users.....
Awesome rest...only thing I dislike is if you are letting down on a deer at full draw without releasing an arrow the rest will click even if you hold the arrow while you let down...watch this b/c if you don't hold the arrow it will go bouncing off the rest.
Any reason you shoot cock vane up Ampahunter? I shoot cock vane down, without a problem...just curious.
Any reason you shoot cock vane up Ampahunter? I shoot cock vane down, without a problem...just curious.
#7
RE: Whammy Users.....
i tried setting one up on my diamond marquis 08 and have had many problems as stated above you need to eaise the rest quite high above the berger holes to stop the arms from slamming into the shelf so off it came and i think i will get the qad ultra seems to be a good rest for these type of bows
#8
RE: Whammy Users.....
ozbowhunter, just an FYI...
I had a QAD LD PRO and played with it a bit on my Allegiance and found that like the Whammy, you have to raise the rest higher than the berger holes to get it to lay flat on the shelf when down. It mounts very similar to the Whammy in that regard.
Honestly, and I know I may get hammered for this, but for the price of the QAD's, I expected them to be constructed of better materials (all metal). I know it has been a non issue for those shooting them, but it just doesn't seem right spending over 100 dollars for something that is half plastic.
I had a QAD LD PRO and played with it a bit on my Allegiance and found that like the Whammy, you have to raise the rest higher than the berger holes to get it to lay flat on the shelf when down. It mounts very similar to the Whammy in that regard.
Honestly, and I know I may get hammered for this, but for the price of the QAD's, I expected them to be constructed of better materials (all metal). I know it has been a non issue for those shooting them, but it just doesn't seem right spending over 100 dollars for something that is half plastic.
#9
RE: Whammy Users.....
Lower the arms as much as possible first thing,then turn the arms so the arrows sits as far down in the arms as possible without falling through,that should get you really close to center of the hole.I was able to get mine through the center of the berger hole on my Hoyt without any trouble at all.Also use moleskin instead of the supplied prong covers and that will save some height as well.
Bowtech puts the hole lower than other manufactuers so if you are across the hole,you are probably about the same as most other bows on the market.
I can shoot 4 fletch vanes with the fletching turned so they would slam the rest if it didn't drop soon enough and I get no contact.
I measure 1 1/4" from the cable slide and that is where I serve in.
Here are some pics.
This is how I serve mine in.This one is actually an 07 model which I like better than the 08's but I have no issues on either bow with either model.
Paper tune with 3 feathers and 4 plastic fletch.
2 arrows shot at 23 yards.
Bowtech puts the hole lower than other manufactuers so if you are across the hole,you are probably about the same as most other bows on the market.
I can shoot 4 fletch vanes with the fletching turned so they would slam the rest if it didn't drop soon enough and I get no contact.
I measure 1 1/4" from the cable slide and that is where I serve in.
Here are some pics.
This is how I serve mine in.This one is actually an 07 model which I like better than the 08's but I have no issues on either bow with either model.
Paper tune with 3 feathers and 4 plastic fletch.
2 arrows shot at 23 yards.
#10
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Brampton Ontario Canada
Posts: 1,038
RE: Whammy Users.....
ORIGINAL: muzzyman88
It appears that the down cable will bind the pull cord to the rest at full draw since they are quite close toward the cable slide.
It appears that the down cable will bind the pull cord to the rest at full draw since they are quite close toward the cable slide.
Using the cocked vane up you'll get a tad bit more clearancefor the hen vanes and the launcher arms. The launcher arms on the whammy restcurves out and can sometimes come into contact with the hen vanes when the cocked vane is nocked down.