Pretty much. Just paper tuning is not as sensitive. In other words, you might get a good tear on paper but still be off BH tuning or walkback. But then if you BH tune, and go back to paper, still have a good tear, or even better, or more consistent.

Paper tune for me is just a starting point.

I'll tell you that I HONESTLY WON'T "paper tune," because I've found that it really tell me nothing other than whether or not I have a clean release. Paper tune a bow and put it on a range and find it's off, then what was the point in paper-tuning in the first place??? For me, I eyeball everything, shoot the bow, and see where I'm at, and start adjusting, usually first with a "Walk-back", then with BH tuning.


BC,
??? "Hang on your every word"??? Nah, I could just picture this guy with a sight that was way messed up trying to figure out why moving his rest was going to help anything. Not bashing, just trying to save some guy from THROWING his bow and saying "&$#%@ IT!!!!"

Well it looks like this method only gives you the side to side allignment for your arrow. If you don't paper tune....How do you do up and down?

That's what the BH tuning is for. I can eyeball it pretty close, then tweak with a BH on the tip from 20-30yds. Once I have both BH and FP's hitting the same POI,I'm done. A lot of guysfight with paper tuning a bow and then find it won't throwBH's worth a darn, then have to BH tune to tweak their bow to what's "tuned." I justby-pass the paper tuning part, because it's tediousand really doesn't get me anywhere. I can just as easilyspend a couple hours in my yard and set a bow up to do what I want it to without ever shooting through paper.

Paper is good for one thing. And thats vertical adjustments. But bareshaft is better, and BH's after that, and your set.

Yes.

For me, tuning is not something that occurs as a seperate event. I use the laser for initial set-up and thenpaper tune. Lastly, Igo to my target for walkback. But first, I will set my sights and be ready to hunt with the bow. Walkback is something that I do over a period of several days or even weeks. It gives me many chances to shoot the bow while I am fresh. Before, I make a change,I verify the results by shooting the bow 2-3 times. It's a drawn out process not a distinctive one day event.

Kevin,
Try this, just eyeball everything, do a quick walk-back, 5-10-15-20-25yds, and tweak, then throw BH's on, and re-tweak, you could be done in an afternoon, tuning a bow shouldn't take "weeks," and if it is, you're likely taking steps that you don't need to. I'm still on the long walk-back myself, but the more I read, I'm considering doing a shorter walkback like I mention initially, and I've also considered zero'ing ONE pin, and BH tuning right from the start to see if it gets me to my endpoint quicker. There are MANY ways to tune a bow, but I think for MOST of us, it comes down to being able to put BH and FP's to a same or similar POI out to our desired hunting distance. For me at 40yds, I'll stack FP and BH's on a similar POI, and I have as much confidence in a 40yd BH shot as a 40yd FP shot as long as its not WINDY!!!

That really does sumit up pretty well.

I also agree that it does not have to be a long drawn out process either. I can paper tune, 3-5 arrows, bareshaft tune 8-10 arrows at progressively longer ranges and walk back tune in a half hour but.................LOL

If you like tinkering, and I do, you can also leave your bow at centershot and tune your arrow instead. That takes more time as it may involve trimming length and changing tip weight while shooting through paper (this is one area where paper is very effective, IMO)and bareshafting. I believe a bow performs better when it is as close to centershot as possible.

paper tuning is good for setting up center shot but and bareshaft etc... but if you think about it, paper tuning is nothing close to the cure all for tuning. if you shoot an arrow from 20 yards through the paper, what do you have... a bullet hole. your bow still may be out of tune even though it doesnt show on the paper. i think there are plenty of minute uses for paper, but not for fp/bh tuning. jmo.
Derek

To do walkback tuning correctly , you ONLY use you 20 yard pin for all distances. As to how far back you can shoot is going to depend on how tall your target butt is and how flat shooting your bow is. But , as I said earlier, use your 20 yard pin only.