Arrow wobble
08-21-2008, 01:01 PM
#11
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 375
RE: Arrow wobble
The Plot Thickens!!!
All good information BrianK. Now that I know you have a WB and that you have wrinkled fletching that pretty well sums it up.
Is one certain fletch more messed up than the other 2on your arrows?
When you put your arrow on the string, where is your cock fletch? Striaight Up, Straight Down or Straight Out to the side? .... HINT: it needs to be straight up.
You probably have some tuning issues. I'd say you need to have your rest adjusted and nock set correctly.
If you don't want to buy new arrows you can save some money and turn your poundage down about 4 or 5 lbs. Also if your fletch are just wrinkled and not torn you can boil water on the stove and let it cool till it just stops boiling then grab all your arrows and hold them in your hand and place them fletch first into the water for a few seconds. Then lean them nock first (on the floor) and inserts up against a wall or whatever. This will help restraighten the fletch. Not perfect, but better. I
You can always have them refletched.
Either way, when you have the fletch issue straightened out, turn the nocks so that when the arrow is on the string the cock fletch (odd color one) is straight up.
If you buy new arrows be sure to adjust the nocks this way. You will still need to readjust the rest also. If you need help with this proess, I just spelled it all out in this thread....... http://www.huntingnet.com/forum/tm.aspx?m=2968982
Would you buy arrows from a bowshop or a mailorder house? If you will go to a shop (recommended) then take the bow, let them look it over, check poundage and recommend arrow size and length. Second have them turn the nocks for a WB and see if they can "Set your rest and square you bow"?
If you need help or have more ???'s feel free to ask.
All good information BrianK. Now that I know you have a WB and that you have wrinkled fletching that pretty well sums it up.
Is one certain fletch more messed up than the other 2on your arrows?
When you put your arrow on the string, where is your cock fletch? Striaight Up, Straight Down or Straight Out to the side? .... HINT: it needs to be straight up.
You probably have some tuning issues. I'd say you need to have your rest adjusted and nock set correctly.
If you don't want to buy new arrows you can save some money and turn your poundage down about 4 or 5 lbs. Also if your fletch are just wrinkled and not torn you can boil water on the stove and let it cool till it just stops boiling then grab all your arrows and hold them in your hand and place them fletch first into the water for a few seconds. Then lean them nock first (on the floor) and inserts up against a wall or whatever. This will help restraighten the fletch. Not perfect, but better. I
You can always have them refletched.
Either way, when you have the fletch issue straightened out, turn the nocks so that when the arrow is on the string the cock fletch (odd color one) is straight up.
If you buy new arrows be sure to adjust the nocks this way. You will still need to readjust the rest also. If you need help with this proess, I just spelled it all out in this thread....... http://www.huntingnet.com/forum/tm.aspx?m=2968982
Would you buy arrows from a bowshop or a mailorder house? If you will go to a shop (recommended) then take the bow, let them look it over, check poundage and recommend arrow size and length. Second have them turn the nocks for a WB and see if they can "Set your rest and square you bow"?
If you need help or have more ???'s feel free to ask.
08-21-2008, 01:09 PM
#12
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,445
RE: Arrow wobble
Our bows are identical, except for the riser color. My draw length is also 29", and I shoot a whisker biscuit.
My arrows are 27.5 inches long. At full draw I have about a 1/4 to 3/8 inch of arrow in front of the biscuit. At full draw, have someone mark one of your arrows whatever distance you want to have in front of your rest. Measure from the throat of the nock to the mark and that's the length of your arrow.
Easton's shaft selector indicates Beman ICSH/V 400s for 27 and 28 inch arrows.
My arrows are 27.5 inches long. At full draw I have about a 1/4 to 3/8 inch of arrow in front of the biscuit. At full draw, have someone mark one of your arrows whatever distance you want to have in front of your rest. Measure from the throat of the nock to the mark and that's the length of your arrow.
Easton's shaft selector indicates Beman ICSH/V 400s for 27 and 28 inch arrows.
08-21-2008, 01:19 PM
#13
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,445
RE: Arrow wobble
As for setting up your rest, most shops will set centershot by using some sort of guage. This won't work on an X4, in fact, you'll be quite a bit off. The manual states that centershot is at 13/16 out from the riser, as a starting point. This is measured to the center of the WB hole. You can do that yourself. You may find you need to make minor adjustments to find your centershot.
The WB should be set parallel to the string, as far as I know.
The WB should be set parallel to the string, as far as I know.
08-21-2008, 02:12 PM
#14
Fork Horn
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location:
Posts: 145
RE: Arrow wobble
This is all very helpful! Hey UncleNorby, what kind of vanes are you shooting? Also, Dryridge, thanks for the info about the cock fletch. I'm SOOOOO disappointed in the proshop that sold me this bow. I like the bow, but they never said one thing about the importance of getting the right arrows, I know it wasn't set up correctly when I bought it, generally they are **ckheads when I ask them questions, and the bow's max weight is too heavy for me. The reason I'm asking these questions here is because of bad experiences with the "pros." Thanks again, I'll take a look at all these responses, make some adjustments and let you know how it turns out.
08-21-2008, 02:26 PM
#15
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,445
RE: Arrow wobble
I shoot Easton aluminum 2315 arrows with the 4" vanes they came with. Not sure what brand easton uses.
If your bow is a 60-70 then I guess you can't lower it much, but if it's a 50-60 maxed out, you can lower the weight.
If your bow is a 60-70 then I guess you can't lower it much, but if it's a 50-60 maxed out, you can lower the weight.
08-21-2008, 02:33 PM
#16
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 375
RE: Arrow wobble
Norby...those 2315 shoot good in any bow you stick them in. Iused to sell TONS of them.
That was until Carbons came out!
BrianK...I understand now. Sounds like UncleNorby knows more than I about your specific bow but if you need help with any tuning issues, I'd be glad to help anyway I can
That was until Carbons came out!
BrianK...I understand now. Sounds like UncleNorby knows more than I about your specific bow but if you need help with any tuning issues, I'd be glad to help anyway I can
08-21-2008, 03:05 PM
#17
Fork Horn
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location:
Posts: 145
RE: Arrow wobble
Hey UncleNorby,
When you say "centershot is at 13/16 out from the riser", do you mean from the "inside" of the riser? If so, mine is plenty off. Now, if I adjustit so that 13/16 is in the center of the biscuit hole, what is that going to do to my sight? Also, all of my cock fletches are set to the left and each vane to the right has black marks on it-- could that be because the arrows are coming in contact with something, the cable or whatever? And if I adjust my rest, could that help remedy the contact problem?
When you say "centershot is at 13/16 out from the riser", do you mean from the "inside" of the riser? If so, mine is plenty off. Now, if I adjustit so that 13/16 is in the center of the biscuit hole, what is that going to do to my sight? Also, all of my cock fletches are set to the left and each vane to the right has black marks on it-- could that be because the arrows are coming in contact with something, the cable or whatever? And if I adjust my rest, could that help remedy the contact problem?
08-21-2008, 10:56 PM
#18
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: SE Ohio
Posts: 2,531
RE: Arrow wobble
ORIGINAL: Brian K
Hey UncleNorby,
When you say "centershot is at 13/16 out from the riser", do you mean from the "inside" of the riser? If so, mine is plenty off. Now, if I adjustit so that 13/16 is in the center of the biscuit hole, what is that going to do to my sight? Also, all of my cock fletches are set to the left and each vane to the right has black marks on it-- could that be because the arrows are coming in contact with something, the cable or whatever? And if I adjust my rest, could that help remedy the contact problem?
Hey UncleNorby,
When you say "centershot is at 13/16 out from the riser", do you mean from the "inside" of the riser? If so, mine is plenty off. Now, if I adjustit so that 13/16 is in the center of the biscuit hole, what is that going to do to my sight? Also, all of my cock fletches are set to the left and each vane to the right has black marks on it-- could that be because the arrows are coming in contact with something, the cable or whatever? And if I adjust my rest, could that help remedy the contact problem?
http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/product/standard-item.jsp?_DARGS=/cabelas/en/common/catalog/item-link.jsp_A&_DAV=MainCatcat21424-cat20061_TGP&id=0004537417604a&navCount=2& amp;podId=0004537&parentId=cat20061&master pathid=&navAction=push&catalogCode=IJ& rid=&parentType=index&indexId=cat20061& ;hasJS=true
You'd want the 55/70's, but I've been shooting them for about 4yrs. now, and have been very happy with them. They are basically a re-badged Beman ICS Hunter for a little less $$$. And the marks certainly could be from the fletching contacting, the biscuit itself if you're that far out of center, or cables or whatever. Unfortunately, your "Pro" shop hasn't given you much assistance at all, but there are a lot of good minds to pick here that should be able to get you to the right point. As for the length of the arrows, I'm all for having a little extra arrow out there, and I draw a 29" bow and have my arrows cut at 29.5."
Good Luck getting everything set where you need it!!!
08-22-2008, 05:25 AM
#19
Fork Horn
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location:
Posts: 145
RE: Arrow wobble
Thanks a ton. I adjusted the rest and will be picking up some arrows today (from a different shop.) I'll have the shop check the poundage I'm drawing, the nock point, etc. and hopefully I'll eliminate that inconsistency and wobble with my broadheads. I'll let you know how it turns out.
08-26-2008, 07:15 AM
#20
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,445
RE: Arrow wobble
Yes, 13/16 from the inside of the riser. I'd imagine you are less than that now, so yes, you will have to adjust your sight. Moving your rest left (out) will make your arrows hit left. To bring them back in line you'll need to move your pins left.
WB's generally work best with cock feather up. Mine has black bristles at say 5 to 7 o'clock, and these are stiffer than the other bristles. They are meant to support the arrow. Tune your arrows so your cock feather is at 12 o'clock. The black marks are probably from cables, as this bow doesn't seem to have a whole lot of vane clearance even with the proper centershot adjustment. Could also be from the WB as your vanes are probably contacting the black bristles.
WB's generally work best with cock feather up. Mine has black bristles at say 5 to 7 o'clock, and these are stiffer than the other bristles. They are meant to support the arrow. Tune your arrows so your cock feather is at 12 o'clock. The black marks are probably from cables, as this bow doesn't seem to have a whole lot of vane clearance even with the proper centershot adjustment. Could also be from the WB as your vanes are probably contacting the black bristles.
