khawk

I took my bow in to the pro shop this morning to have it paper tuned so that I could get rid of all of the doubts and problems that I have had in doing it myself. After about 10 shots or so the guy told me that he has done all he can and something is wrong with the bow and that it couldnt get a perfect hole. A slight high tear is the best that could be done.He just suggested for me to use expandables as they will fly like a field point. He also pointed out that in my lower cam there was a slight lean to the right. He went on to say that the lean wouldnt effect my up and down flight that it would show up on the left to right. I kind of scratched my head as he offered no suggestions other than " use expandables". There was no charge for him to do what he did so I didnt pursue the issue any further. I almmost bought a new bow based on what he was telling me. Was he just trying to sell me? Or should I look at something else or stick it out with what I got?

Austin/WI

To be honest, paper tuning isn't really all that helpful oftentimes. I would take a look at the Walkback thread stickied at the top of this board and give that a shot. I know a lot of people whose bows don't shoot perfect holes on paper but are exceptionally accurate and consistent on target.

SwampCollie

x2

Paper tuning has its uses, and like a certain medium of art, we have even here on HNI those who swear its the best way. Personally, I've had more frustrations with paper tuning than I have with redheaded women.

I think you got "free" advice. Its not all bad, but its not exactly on target either. There may well be something wrong with your bow, and there isn't anything your free advice guy can do about it, and based on his response I wouldn't let him do it anyway. But think on this too, right now its selling season. Pro shops make money on selling things, and its high time to sell. He isn't going to spend two hours on your bow (espeically if he isn't charging you $40 and hour for it) when he could be making four figure sales on new equipment. Don't take that the wrong way.. money makes the world go around.

If you are getting a high tear, it could mean damn near anything. Take the above advice and try walkback and group tuning. You can PM myself or TFOX (espeically TFOX) about group tuning. He'd be more than happy to help you with any ?'s you might have, as would I.

Once you've done a couple different fairly simple things, we can probably help you diagnose whats going on. Shooting expandables as a fix in this case is just a bandaid on a bullet wound if you have poor arrow flight.

khawk

Well I pretty much spent all dayhaving my bow looked at. I made an hour drive to a very small archery shop. The guy took one look at it and it was clear to him the problems. 1. Nock way to high. 2. The wb was setting at an incorrect angle for the poundage, he angled it towards me a little. 3. The rest was setting above the slot where it bolts down. He charged me $10 and within 10 shots had perfect tears! Let me make clear the that 1st stop was at one of the larger retail chains. This guy really helped!! I hope now I am on my way!

gzg38b

Glad you got it straightened out.

As far as paper tuning, one thing to remember is that how you grip the bow is critical. That's why you can't have somebody else paper tune it for you. YOU need to be shooting, because nobody else will grip it exactly like you do.

If you don't have consistent form and a consistent grip, then paper tuning will give you fits.

OHbowhntr

In all HONESTY, having someone else paper tune your bow is like having someone else test drive a car for you. It don't help YOU at all. Another HONEST observation from years of trying to figure these damned stick-throwers out, paper-tuning in the overall realm don't tell you much. For some guys sure, it's perfect, but for many guys, they spend all that time paper-tuning their bow, then end up having to move things around because the "center-rest" is off, or find that they need to move their nock-point up or down a hair to get their BH's to shooot w/ their FP's. I've noticed just switching releases can really throw things off, just because the release of one vs. another my come off at a slightly different angle, etc.

khawk

All I know now is that my bh's are grouping with my fp''s and expandables. It is a work in progress that I will not give up! This is my second year hunting with a bow now and I have came leaps and bounds from jumping in the stand and missing a buck due to not understanding the flight of a broadhead! True, he did paper tune it for me and I do understand that the grip is a key factor but that high tear that torented me for weeks now is gone. Credit goes to all that havegivenfeedback and to that old man an hour away. Sometimes riding shoutgun is the best way to learn!

OHbowhntr

The good news is that you have a great place like here to ask these types of questions. Years ago, many of us learned by TRIAL and ERROR, and it seemed there was a lot more ERROR than anything much of the time. What a blessing the internet is in many ways such as this. Shoot 'em straight, and post up a pick when your finally get to wrap your hand around some horns this fall!!!

Dryridge

KHawk, I am glad you got this all worked out. I am like OH bowhunter, I evolved with the bows and we never had anyone to teach us much. I did go to PSE's BowSchool, but to be honest I learned more by "trial and error....and more error than anything else" ..LOL.

One thing. If you will notice, I went through the steps that this guy did on your other post re: Nock High tear nomatter what. The only thing is I had you start w/the WB dead level. I didn't want to lean it back yet. Wasn't sure of which one you had...etc. If you would read the steps, or maybe print them off and keep them that should be the way you do it every time you have a problem. Just start over. If you go turning one thing and not another before you know it you get everything out of sorts on what I calla "give and take" single camsystem like your bow utilizes.

You got some good advice and learned of a good shop to do your work for you. Also, you got just what you paid for at the first shop.
I had one ???, DId the guy at the second shop fix the lower wheel lean? It can be done by twisting the buss cable, unlessyou have a "bearing" issue. Bet you didn't know your bow had "bearings" dd ya..... If you use "dirty lubricants" like WD-40 and others that hold dirt in there, and your bow is over 3 or 4 years old depending on how much you shoot it, you could need new bearings. Hint, do you ever hear a squeak or noise from your cam from time to time when drawing or can you take your hand and bang the side of your bottom limb fairly good and hear a buzz or rattle from the cam area? if so take it back to guy #2 and have him replace the "Bushings or Bearings" whichever he calls them. This can keep you from having accuracy issues later when the cam is wobbling on the axle and throwing "fliers" any which way once in while that make you scratch your head and your butt at the same time!

PM me or EM me at [email protected] for any help you might need.

Dave in WV....Dryridge

Snood Slapper

khawk, I just want to say kudos to you for not just giving up and taking the easy way out; which is obviously what your first advice was, even though it was not said that way. You persisted by spending more time and money to get it right.

I imagine you've already noticed that your bow is probably quieter and may even have less vibration when you shoot it since energy is not being wasted as much.