i hate carbon arrows
#11
RE: i hate carbon arrows
ORIGINAL: OHbowhntr
If you're having problems with your Carbon arrows, you have one of the following problems....
1. You're using CHEAP arrows. (If you're shooting something .003 or better, you SHOULD be ok here.)
2. You're using arrows that weren't cut properly or squared right. (If you're arrows were cut by someone who KNOWS what they're doing and squared, again, you should be ok here.)
3. You're using arrows that are way off on spine. (Post up your set-up, bow, draw wt. and length, arrows, size/spine of the arrows, components on the arrows, tip wt.)
4. Your BH's aren't spinning true. (Have you spin-tested your arrows??? Do you have a spin-tester or just use your finger??? )
5. You're shooting a BH that just don't match up well with your set-up. (What BH are you shooting??? Some BH's just are TOUGH to tune. ST's are not one of them. )
6. You need help getting to the bottom of the problem because you don't really know enough to solve it yourself. (You're in the right place to find help. Don't be offended, we CAN likely help you NOT HATE your Carbon Arrows. )
If you're having problems with your Carbon arrows, you have one of the following problems....
1. You're using CHEAP arrows. (If you're shooting something .003 or better, you SHOULD be ok here.)
2. You're using arrows that weren't cut properly or squared right. (If you're arrows were cut by someone who KNOWS what they're doing and squared, again, you should be ok here.)
3. You're using arrows that are way off on spine. (Post up your set-up, bow, draw wt. and length, arrows, size/spine of the arrows, components on the arrows, tip wt.)
4. Your BH's aren't spinning true. (Have you spin-tested your arrows??? Do you have a spin-tester or just use your finger??? )
5. You're shooting a BH that just don't match up well with your set-up. (What BH are you shooting??? Some BH's just are TOUGH to tune. ST's are not one of them. )
6. You need help getting to the bottom of the problem because you don't really know enough to solve it yourself. (You're in the right place to find help. Don't be offended, we CAN likely help you NOT HATE your Carbon Arrows. )
Academy used to sell a trash arrow for 35 Dollars a dozen and friend of mine bought some because he never used carbon. They were pure trash, they didn't even have the spine on them, some sort of Korean crap. I don't think they sell them any more. With carbon you pretty much get what you pay for.
#12
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Elm city, N.C.
Posts: 18
RE: i hate carbon arrows
Hi all,
if you go back and read the first post, i said noting about flight. Spining truly is what i said. The arrows are carbon express max. hunters, the spine is perfect, the broadheads are muzzys, one guy hit it on the head. The shafts were cut alittle off sq. this was not done by me. And it seams most of you have no idea what iam talking about with the alum. shafts and hot melt. Prob. to young.
You put your insert in with a glue called hot melt. Its a solid stick you heat with a candle or some type of flame. Heat it up and smear some on your insert and just a little in your shaft. Put it on a field point and reheat. Then slide it into your shaft. let it cool. If the broadhead is not SPINing true on the shaft, heat it up a little till it will rotate and keep doing this till you get it to spin Perfect.
This was not ment to be a SA session, just wondering if anyone who care about perfect alignment between arrow and broadhead had found any simple tricks for carbons. I do like them for the lack of weight and durabiliy. Some of you are making way to much of this. So dont get pissed at my reply, i do like this forum, I did learn about the jackhammer tech. here. By the way, it worked perfect on an old gold tip arrow, no luck on the C.E. yet.
Thanks , Steve
if you go back and read the first post, i said noting about flight. Spining truly is what i said. The arrows are carbon express max. hunters, the spine is perfect, the broadheads are muzzys, one guy hit it on the head. The shafts were cut alittle off sq. this was not done by me. And it seams most of you have no idea what iam talking about with the alum. shafts and hot melt. Prob. to young.
You put your insert in with a glue called hot melt. Its a solid stick you heat with a candle or some type of flame. Heat it up and smear some on your insert and just a little in your shaft. Put it on a field point and reheat. Then slide it into your shaft. let it cool. If the broadhead is not SPINing true on the shaft, heat it up a little till it will rotate and keep doing this till you get it to spin Perfect.
This was not ment to be a SA session, just wondering if anyone who care about perfect alignment between arrow and broadhead had found any simple tricks for carbons. I do like them for the lack of weight and durabiliy. Some of you are making way to much of this. So dont get pissed at my reply, i do like this forum, I did learn about the jackhammer tech. here. By the way, it worked perfect on an old gold tip arrow, no luck on the C.E. yet.
Thanks , Steve
#13
RE: i hate carbon arrows
I to use the "jack hammer" method. I've found that a 7/32" drill bit works well with Carbon Express Terminator Lites. I would like, however, to suggest maybe a brass rod of a similar diameter, the drill bit could scar the inside of the arrow.
As for the G5 ASD, a must for anyone that shoots arrows, aluminum or carbon.
As for the G5 ASD, a must for anyone that shoots arrows, aluminum or carbon.
#14
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Moravia NY USA
Posts: 2,164
RE: i hate carbon arrows
Friend of mine has sold 1000's of doz's of carbon arrows.
He uses low temp hot melt only and never has a problem.
Just clean insude of shaft and the insert well to degrease.
Use LOW heat - it does not take much.
Steve
He uses low temp hot melt only and never has a problem.
Just clean insude of shaft and the insert well to degrease.
Use LOW heat - it does not take much.
Steve
#15
RE: i hate carbon arrows
Hmmm... I used to shoot Easton XX75 2315's for years and years out of an old PSE bow (old school, round wheel dual cam, tear drop cables, etc...). Everything worked perfectly, and was a tried and true classic setup. ....a little outdated, and slow as molasses, but it was cool.
Now, when I got my new bow, I made the grand leap of faith to carbon (Beman ICS Hunter 340's) and can't see myself switching back to aluminum any time soon. I had a very reputable bow shop set me up,tune my bow, and even gave me some tips with my form. My '06 Reflex Highlander is set at a 29" draw and is at my max comfort level (68#). With a 100gr tip, I get the best of both worlds, regarding arrow flight, speed, and K/E.
Now, when I got my new bow, I made the grand leap of faith to carbon (Beman ICS Hunter 340's) and can't see myself switching back to aluminum any time soon. I had a very reputable bow shop set me up,tune my bow, and even gave me some tips with my form. My '06 Reflex Highlander is set at a 29" draw and is at my max comfort level (68#). With a 100gr tip, I get the best of both worlds, regarding arrow flight, speed, and K/E.
#16
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Elm city, N.C.
Posts: 18
RE: i hate carbon arrows
Hey Steve, thanks for the info. that sound good. I had some low temp hot melt back when. I will go look for it now. Thanks for sharing the info. Sure miss them good old days. Killed lots of deer with slow bows and alum. arrows.
Thanks again.
Steve
Thanks again.
Steve
#17
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Blissfield MI USA
Posts: 5,293
RE: i hate carbon arrows
I personally use hotmelt glue on carbons if use them. I still like aluminum arrows though. The hotmelt glue works fine for what I do, but I would do it if you shoot 3-D because you might eventually lose an insert. I use a bag target most of the time though so it's not an issue.
Paul
Paul
#18
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Ohio
Posts: 7,876
RE: i hate carbon arrows
ORIGINAL: SS2000
Hi all,
if you go back and read the first post, i said noting about flight. Spining truly is what i said. The arrows are carbon express max. hunters, the spine is perfect, the broadheads are muzzys, one guy hit it on the head. The shafts were cut alittle off sq. this was not done by me. And it seams most of you have no idea what iam talking about with the alum. shafts and hot melt. Prob. to young.
You put your insert in with a glue called hot melt. Its a solid stick you heat with a candle or some type of flame. Heat it up and smear some on your insert and just a little in your shaft. Put it on a field point and reheat. Then slide it into your shaft. let it cool. If the broadhead is not SPINing true on the shaft, heat it up a little till it will rotate and keep doing this till you get it to spin Perfect.
This was not ment to be a SA session, just wondering if anyone who care about perfect alignment between arrow and broadhead had found any simple tricks for carbons. I do like them for the lack of weight and durabiliy. Some of you are making way to much of this. So dont get pissed at my reply, i do like this forum, I did learn about the jackhammer tech. here. By the way, it worked perfect on an old gold tip arrow, no luck on the C.E. yet.
Thanks , Steve
Hi all,
if you go back and read the first post, i said noting about flight. Spining truly is what i said. The arrows are carbon express max. hunters, the spine is perfect, the broadheads are muzzys, one guy hit it on the head. The shafts were cut alittle off sq. this was not done by me. And it seams most of you have no idea what iam talking about with the alum. shafts and hot melt. Prob. to young.
You put your insert in with a glue called hot melt. Its a solid stick you heat with a candle or some type of flame. Heat it up and smear some on your insert and just a little in your shaft. Put it on a field point and reheat. Then slide it into your shaft. let it cool. If the broadhead is not SPINing true on the shaft, heat it up a little till it will rotate and keep doing this till you get it to spin Perfect.
This was not ment to be a SA session, just wondering if anyone who care about perfect alignment between arrow and broadhead had found any simple tricks for carbons. I do like them for the lack of weight and durabiliy. Some of you are making way to much of this. So dont get pissed at my reply, i do like this forum, I did learn about the jackhammer tech. here. By the way, it worked perfect on an old gold tip arrow, no luck on the C.E. yet.
Thanks , Steve
Here's my take, doesn't matter if the shaft is square or not, there's no way the insert can go in not square unless it's loose in the shaft and I havent found any (carbons) that were, all fit pretty tight even before the glue. It's not like your cross threading them in there. Just my take on it and there could be cases were it matters, I've never seen it and spinning it if it is out of square wont make it square. If anything I'd say a bad insert or head. Then again, I've never cut one out of square orever had one not spin true unless the ferrul was bent.
Most everybody round here knows what hot melt is and how to use it.
CE's fly great, I hate the finish. Reminds me too much of the noise aluminums make when drawn.
Don't care for fmj's and don't see how one of them, if they are cutout ofsquare wouldn't have the same problem even worse if it is an issue, the ferrul doesn't fit as tight as the insert.
Don't take the place to seriously, it'll eat you up and no body else really cares, were all taking ourselves to seriously to pay much attention to you.
#19
RE: i hate carbon arrows
ORIGINAL: nodog
Here's my take, doesn't matter if the shaft is square or not, there's no way the insert can go in not square unless it's loose in the shaft and I havent found any (carbons) that were, all fit pretty tight even before the glue. It's not like your cross threading them in there. Just my take on it and there could be cases were it matters, I've never seen it and spinning it if it is out of square wont make it square. If anything I'd say a bad insert or head. Then again, I've never cut one out of square orever had one not spin true unless the ferrul was bent.
Most everybody round here knows what hot melt is and how to use it.
CE's fly great, I hate the finish. Reminds me too much of the noise aluminums make when drawn.
Don't care for fmj's and don't see how one of them, if they are cutout ofsquare wouldn't have the same problem even worse if it is an issue, the ferrul doesn't fit as tight as the insert.
Don't take the place to seriously, it'll eat you up and no body else really cares, were all taking ourselves to seriously to pay much attention to you.
Here's my take, doesn't matter if the shaft is square or not, there's no way the insert can go in not square unless it's loose in the shaft and I havent found any (carbons) that were, all fit pretty tight even before the glue. It's not like your cross threading them in there. Just my take on it and there could be cases were it matters, I've never seen it and spinning it if it is out of square wont make it square. If anything I'd say a bad insert or head. Then again, I've never cut one out of square orever had one not spin true unless the ferrul was bent.
Most everybody round here knows what hot melt is and how to use it.
CE's fly great, I hate the finish. Reminds me too much of the noise aluminums make when drawn.
Don't care for fmj's and don't see how one of them, if they are cutout ofsquare wouldn't have the same problem even worse if it is an issue, the ferrul doesn't fit as tight as the insert.
Don't take the place to seriously, it'll eat you up and no body else really cares, were all taking ourselves to seriously to pay much attention to you.
The broadhead has a lot to do with it as well. Muzzy's are notoriously picky, thanks largely to that big heavy trocar tip on the end. If you get a little bit of wobble when you spin test, that wobble is going to mess with your arrow flight, because that heavy tip is where a fair bit of your weight is.
The ASD certainly does help... I use it on my arrows before I glue in the inserts, and then again on the face of the insert itself.... although now that I'm shooting HIT inserts.. its kind of a moot point.... if you get wobble with a HIT insert then either your arrow is crooked, or your broadhead is crooked.
#20
RE: i hate carbon arrows
A low temp hotmelt works on carbon when done correctly but it isn't necessary on the FMJ's.They align perfectly because the broadhead shaft goes up inside the arrow,so it has to align to the arrow.
I am a hotmelt guy myself but I used the supplied epoxy on the FMJ's and the broadheads spin perfect,with no hassle.I can almost guarantee if you get the proper spine,you will like them.
I am a hotmelt guy myself but I used the supplied epoxy on the FMJ's and the broadheads spin perfect,with no hassle.I can almost guarantee if you get the proper spine,you will like them.