For those with Binary cams
 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5GJ6fVV3RfM

That is Kevin from Elite

RE: For those with Binary cams
 

Thanks for the link germ...I actually just made a draw board on Saturday and my cams are out of synch just a tad. Great tool for binary cam shooters.

RE: For those with Binary cams
 

I just made one a month or so ago as well. My cams were also out of synch but not anymore. Everything worked out perfectly too. Cams in synch, full draw weight achieved, proper letoff percentage achieved, and all my specs (A2A, BH, etc) were spot on, after some tinkering of course. Its a great feeling.:D

Heres some pics. I have to use it on my apartment patio railing.[&:]

RE: For those with Binary cams
 

From what i can gather, if one owns a Binary cam bow, a drawing board is a must.

RE: For those with Binary cams
 

I totally agree Germ. I hear a lot of people saying to get a friend to check for you while you draw or to use a hook and pull your bow down to check cam timing/synch. You can't go wrong with a drawboard though. It takes all the guesswork out of it. Its also nice to have for measuring draw length.;) Costs about $35 or so. The winch was the most expensive part of the project.

I still have a few minor details to work out on mine. Its hard to see in the pic but I have a sock on the pipe flange protecting my bow from scratches. I'm also going to attach yardstick to the board permanently for DL.

RE: For those with Binary cams
 

Thanks for the link, Germ. I'll be putting new strings on the Equalizer within a week. That video will be very helpful..:)

RE: For those with Binary cams
 

A drawing board is a must IMHO on any bow. A good scale and a drawing board are probably #2 most important item IMHO after a press. Once I put a dent into the "honey-do" list I've got around here and get some time and $$$ to start building downstairs I'll have one in my shop.

RE: For those with Binary cams
 

Thoughts on Kevin's statement slightly prior to 3:30 of the video about "proper AMO drawlength is measured from where the bow bottoms out in holding weight... NOT to how far you can draw the bow back"?

RE: For those with Binary cams
 

You're absolutely right.
Binary's preformance depends on sync. and proper rotation.
A home built draw board is cheap too, but the best tool you can have.

RE: For those with Binary cams
 

Greg,

I heard the same from Dave Nowlin when I talked to him. He told me to measure draw length at the point of least drawing force. Its not pictured but I have a digital scale I put between the turnbuckle hook and my bowstring to measure peak/holding weight. Anyway, he told me to watch where the DW falls off and then picks up again, that is where you want to measure.

Shouldn't this be about the point when your cables are just barely touching your cable stops anyway? That is what I gathered.

RE: For those with Binary cams
 

This is how I do it. It's more consistent this way. Bows with no limb peg stop can be overdrawn 1/4" to 1/2" past this point easily.

RE: For those with Binary cams
 

I do something different. I just don't see the need for a draw board. I can see a full draw tool on the apple press handy. But I have a hook in my garage, and I pull the bow to full length and watch what is happening. That way, I can be sure I don't overdraw, and its only a hook. I also put a hook in the floor with the plans of putting a ratchet strap on it to hold the bow at full draw, but I just don't trust that.

If I need to use my spot hogg laser to check cam lean, I get someone to hold it for me.

RE: For those with Binary cams
 

I find it easier with a drawboard but thats just me. I tried the "hook and pull" method but didn't like it. I guess another good thing about a draw board is measuring nock travel. I'm uninformed on nock travel so I really can't explain that one any further.;)

RE: For those with Binary cams
 

Do you guys set your timing at full draw with the stops hitting at the same time? I have never tried but always wondered if creep tuning worked on binary. Its hard to creep on a binary cam however. Not like bows of the past.

RE: For those with Binary cams
 

Very good point, RJ... I've shot Bowtech for so long now that I've forgotten what it's like to pull back a bow withoutthat solid wall via the draw-stop peg... :)

RE: For those with Binary cams
 

Yes, my cables are hitting the stops at exactly the same time. I thought I remember reading a post somewhere about creep tuning a binary, maybe not.

RE: For those with Binary cams
 

I am not sure it can be done, but curious about it as thier is little to no valley on binary cams. I just fixed my sync on my commander last night. The back wall felt spoungy lately, and sure enough my top cam was hitting the cable first with 1/8" to spare on the bottom. I also have noticed the bow had more vibration andnoise. So fixed it up and fixed alot. Also got my lbs back up to 70.

If you see that article I wouldn't mind reading it.

RE: For those with Binary cams
 

If I come across it, I'll let you know. The commander has a draw stop peg, right? I know on my tribute if I try to creep my arm will come out of socket.

RE: For those with Binary cams
 

Just a quick question about binary cams and timing, I thought that the binarys would always stay in time due to design and take-up positioning,I wasn't worried withmy Diamond, being a single cam. Its not a problem I've had to address before. Just wonder'n

RE: For those with Binary cams
 

Bowdaddy64: A binary can go out of synch if a cable touches one draw stop before the other. Keep in mind you've got 3 draw stops, one on each cam (built into the module) and the moveable draw stop peg.
For those interested: http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=626255.

RE: For those with Binary cams
 

The draw stop post should be used to set your let off desired. The "stops" on the Binary cams that are equipped with a draw stop post are there for syncronization and to prevent over rotation, should the draw stop post move or become lost while shooting. The stops on the module ends are also to prevent cam lock up, should the draw stop post become missing.

RE: For those with Binary cams
 

While a draw board is nice and convenient. It is far from a necessity to own a Binary cam bow. They are actually some of the easiest bows to work on I've ever owned.

In most of my experience it has been set'em, tune'em, & forget'em;)

Dan

RE: For those with Binary cams
 

I built a really nice crankboard and used it a few times. I ended up giving it to the local archery shop one day because he was asking about how hard it would be to make one.
I showed up with it shortly after that conversation and he was happy to see me;) I just use a large mirror to stand in front of if the wife ain't home.. I really haven't had to adjust the cable lengths on my bows very often, I don't use a peep so my bows don't get pressed at all for that reason.
I really didn't like seeing my bows in the crankboard, looked like I was torturing them:(

RE: For those with Binary cams
 

I mounted a full length mirror next to my press bench. I find it easier to pull back and look.

I would find it hard to determine how hard you are pulling off the wall with a draw board. By me pulling it back means that I am duplicating what I do when shooting.....

RE: For those with Binary cams
 

I agree with MeanV on this one. Doing this is not a must with binary bows. I set up my bow and forget about it. I set the dots close (I've found they do not have to be exactly the same) and shoot. The whole purpose of the binary is so that you do not have to get all wrapped up in this sort of thing.

I just installed new cables and a string and I'm off by half a dot at rest. I broke 3 arrows in 1 day because of hitting the nock with another arrow and only shot 3 arrow groupsmaybe 6times that day.