Paper tunning
 

Is it better to paper tune with naked shafts or fletched?

RE: Paper tunning
 

Fletched. You really shouldn't mix two tuning methods unless you really know what you are doing.

Paul

RE: Paper tunning
 

I was trying to tune at my local bow shop and we could not get it to tune with naked shafts,,it had a bad left tail tear,,but we got it to a bullet hole with fletchens.

RE: Paper tunning
 

To paper tune with bare shafts, you have to be a machine shooter. Your bow arm can't move one bit at the shot and release and follow thru has to be perfect. No hand torquing whatsoever.

RE: Paper tunning
 

Sounds about right,,just got my new X Force SS and I am still trying to get used to the grip,,I was shooting a Firestorm and the grip is way wider,,the X Force grip is very thin.

RE: Paper tunning
 

Thats a good thing. The thin grip should help you not torque. XForce would be a very unforgiving bow to try to shoot a bare arrow thru paper.

RE: Paper tunning
 

Yeah,,looks like I am finding that out the hard way,,,but so far I love the bow!

RE: Paper tunning
 

Papertuning with poor form or a bad grip is the worst thing you can do. First, it will drive you nuts. Second, it will frustrate you.

Use walk back or French Tuning instead.

RE: Paper tunning
 

I agree,if you can't shoot without torquing the bow,forget paper and tune in the yard.

I'll go one step further and say if you can't shoot with great form,a radical bow like the x force is probably not a good fit as well.


I check my spine with bareshafts through paper at very close distances and it eliminates fletching contact from the equation.(should be able to get a bullet hole with centershot set very close)Once I am certain my shafts spine is correct,I fletch and Check paper for contact,then I move on to the yard for walk back and group tuning.

RE: Paper tunning
 

My form can't be that bad,,I group just as good or better than I ever have,,and the arrows really seemed to be flying straight.

RE: Paper tunning
 

We're just offering our advice on this. Too many people get stuck on paper tuning and can never get the bow to shoot the way they want but the arrow shoots just fine at distance and with broadheads.

I fell into that trap when I started back into shooting early last year and I've even watched shop owners and other shooters spend way too much time shooting a bow through paper trying to work out a problem that will never go away. i spent about an hour trying to paper tune my bow. A friend that owns a shop told me to forget that and tune my bow at distance. After i tuned it with French Tuning I decided to shoot it through paper just to see the results and I had a perfect hole.

With walk back or French tuning you will be assured that your bow is tuned well at distance and really that's what counts, isn't it? Most people do not get a 3-4 yd shot at a animal. Just my $.02

RE: Paper tunning
 

And what exactly is 'walk back or French' tuning ??

RE: Paper tunning
 

Please provide me with an email addy and I'll gladly send you an article on French tuning.

In short,
I do it a little different than the article I'll send due to the fact that I've found out that my bow sighted in at 50 yds is the same as shooting at 4 yds and 50 yds is a pretty standard pin for most hunters with multiple pins. Sight in your 50 yd pin at about4 yds by adjusting your sight. You need to make sure you aredead center.

Now, go back to 50 yds and shoot6 shots. If you hit left of the target move your rest a little to the right. If you hit high of the target move your rest a little down. You shouldn't really have to worry about vertical adjustment but if it is off, adjust. When I say a little I mean 1/32" of an inch max.

Go back to 4 yds and adjust your sight again for dead center.

Go back to 50 and shoot 6 more arrows. Adjust the rest accordingly. Repeat as necessary. I've found that usually after the second round I'm on.

There is a great thread at the beginning of the technical forum by TFOX that goes into walk back and other methods of tuning.