Gold Tip shafts
 

Looking to go to GOLD TIP shafts b/c of the durability factor versus my XX78's but I want one with a large O.D. as-close to the 21/64" dimension as I can get - probably going to have to pick the Ultra 22 Series 22 or the Ultralight Series 22 Pro shafts.

Anyone currently shooting either of them and if so, how do YOU like them?

Thanks,

RE: Gold Tip shafts
 

What draw weight and what length do you intend to shoot them at? The only difference between the 22's and 22 Pro's is the straightness. If you plan on cutting them down then cut about 1 1/2" from the nock end first. Cut the remainder from the point end. You'll end up with a straighter arrow.

I shoot the Pro 22's simply because I was a shooter for GT and they kept giving me Pro's when I could have shot regular 22 shafts, as I cut them down to 27" anyway. Hey, their pretty good shafts, too.

RE: Gold Tip shafts
 

I shoot like 60# and about a 29" arrow.

RE: Gold Tip shafts
 

Then you're going to have all kinds of computer geeks tell you they are too stiff ( 300 spine) for your setup. Me? I use my brain and tried some. I get themto fly well even down to 53# at 27" long--27" draw, too. They're not perfect, but then neither am I. I get them to fly real nice with BH's at 60#.

Don't forget to cut some from the nock end before the final cut-to-length. Do this and you can take a .006" shaft down to .003" most of the time.

RE: Gold Tip shafts
 

Bg, I shoot the XT hunters, will this stand true for them too.....cutting from the nock end first???

RE: Gold Tip shafts
 

This is pretty much true of any all carbon shaft. Note I said shafts. One reason I never buy made up arrows. Besides, I've had a Bitzenberger fletcher for well over 30 years and have scads of fletching materials that need used up before I die.

RE: Gold Tip shafts
 

Bg, thanks for the info, I had never heard of in the 10 years of shootin but it makes sense to me...I know what you mean about having a ton of fletching stuff to burn up

RE: Gold Tip shafts
 

I have been saying this for a long time;)

RE: Gold Tip shafts
 

Not only should you cut raw shafts from both ends but it helps to spin test each shaft before you cut. Some shafts will have more"wiggle" on just one end and if you cut just a lil offone end then alot offtheend without checking first you'll still end up with a shaft that isnt as straight as it could be. Mark each shaft as to where the "wiggles" are and then cut accordingly.

RE: Gold Tip shafts
 

A way overspined arrow is never a big an issue as a wayunderpined arrow. Us computer geeks say they are overspined because they are. You can look at a chart and know the same thing.

Many of us rely on our shooting knowledge as well as our computer geekiness and know that just because it is too stiff that doesn't mean they will not fly well. However, being a computer geek and an archer I know a shaft that is way underspined will probably shoot BH's like crap and could be dangerous to boot.;)

RE: Gold Tip shafts
 

Well hells bells!!!!!!!! Dave, I thought that comment would have riled somebody up long before this. You're certainly right about broadheads flying ugly with underspined shafts. Been there and done that.

Might I change my original statement about computer geeks? I really meant those guys that use computer programs to choose arrows. Here is where I agree with you again and say enough shooting knowledge makes their use "not necessary". They're nice to play around with, but I for one don't need to know that shaft "A" needs to be 1/8" longer than shaft "B" for a given weight point, etc, etc. I figure some of these variables can be "adjusted" with the limb bolts on the bow.

RE: Gold Tip shafts
 

I agree with what you are saying. A little length difference doesn't really matter. I think sometimes we can get too caught up in what technology tells us instead of using our own brains. I'm sure that is what you meant with you comment about using your own head to figure things out.

I will say though that when you do not fit into a chart the programs do help you eliminate arrows that could be underspined enough to cause eratic arrow flight.When I first started shooting the GT's last year they were 29" long and I had BH flight problems that I did not find out about until late summer. They shot great with practice tips all spring and summer. You would think that a 7595 arrow would be ok for a 75 lb bow. However,screw on a 125 gr tip and an extra 1" in DL and you find out they are not. Ran it through OT2 and found out that I had to cut 2" off of the arrows to get them to where they atleast shot well. The time I savedtrying to figure out a length and moeny saved from not having to buy new arrows are the benefits of a program.

RE: Gold Tip shafts
 

I get what you're saying. I really have issues with Gold Tip. If you go by their labeling a 7595 should be good to 95#. Yeh, at what length? The truth is the spine rating on them is .340" and you know darn well that's not even good for 75# at something around 28-29". It isn't going to happen. They really need to update the labeling of their XT and Expedition series to account for the more aggressive cams on today's bows. Easton does it periodically. I just don't care for their carbon arrows, other than the Litespeeds.

You also probably know from experience that, within reason, almost any underspined arrow will group decently with target or field tips in them. They might fly ugly as the dickens and very fast, but they'll group. Throw some blades on the front and things change dramatically.

What I was referring to about using computer programs is that a lot of guys get so caught up in trying to nitpick arrow length, point weight, fletching style and such that they lose sight of the idea that most times all that's needed to get good flight from a chosen shaft is to add or subtract a turn from the limbs on the bow. Guys get too caught up in HAVING to shoot a certain poundage. And there are other factors involved, too, such as a little bit of hand torque or a bow that isn't balanced well. There are many factros that the computer programs just can'taccountfor. But I do have to admit that they will get you very close for starters.

Barry

RE: Gold Tip shafts
 

Your last paragraph is well put.I use the program to get close andafter that only if i feel like playing around.Last year was my first time using carbons and going through all the spines (not sizes posted by manufacturer) is confusing at times.

RE: Gold Tip shafts
 

You're absolutely right, and I wouldNEVER boot a broadhead just for that very reason!

RE: Gold Tip shafts
 

I shoot GT XT and love them.