Scoobiedoo

Looking to go to GOLD TIP shafts b/c of the durability factor versus my XX78's but I want one with a large O.D. as-close to the 21/64" dimension as I can get - probably going to have to pick the Ultra 22 Series 22 or the Ultralight Series 22 Pro shafts.

Anyone currently shooting either of them and if so, how do YOU like them?

Thanks,

BGfisher

What draw weight and what length do you intend to shoot them at? The only difference between the 22's and 22 Pro's is the straightness. If you plan on cutting them down then cut about 1 1/2" from the nock end first. Cut the remainder from the point end. You'll end up with a straighter arrow.

I shoot the Pro 22's simply because I was a shooter for GT and they kept giving me Pro's when I could have shot regular 22 shafts, as I cut them down to 27" anyway. Hey, their pretty good shafts, too.

Scoobiedoo

I shoot like 60# and about a 29" arrow.

BGfisher

Then you're going to have all kinds of computer geeks tell you they are too stiff ( 300 spine) for your setup. Me? I use my brain and tried some. I get themto fly well even down to 53# at 27" long--27" draw, too. They're not perfect, but then neither am I. I get them to fly real nice with BH's at 60#.

Don't forget to cut some from the nock end before the final cut-to-length. Do this and you can take a .006" shaft down to .003" most of the time.

TexasBowHunter

Bg, I shoot the XT hunters, will this stand true for them too.....cutting from the nock end first???

BGfisher

This is pretty much true of any all carbon shaft. Note I said shafts. One reason I never buy made up arrows. Besides, I've had a Bitzenberger fletcher for well over 30 years and have scads of fletching materials that need used up before I die.

TexasBowHunter

Bg, thanks for the info, I had never heard of in the 10 years of shootin but it makes sense to me...I know what you mean about having a ton of fletching stuff to burn up

Kanga

I have been saying this for a long time

Jawshooter

Not only should you cut raw shafts from both ends but it helps to spin test each shaft before you cut. Some shafts will have more"wiggle" on just one end and if you cut just a lil offone end then alot offtheend without checking first you'll still end up with a shaft that isnt as straight as it could be. Mark each shaft as to where the "wiggles" are and then cut accordingly.

davepjr71

A way overspined arrow is never a big an issue as a wayunderpined arrow. Us computer geeks say they are overspined because they are. You can look at a chart and know the same thing.

Many of us rely on our shooting knowledge as well as our computer geekiness and know that just because it is too stiff that doesn't mean they will not fly well. However, being a computer geek and an archer I know a shaft that is way underspined will probably shoot BH's like crap and could be dangerous to boot.