proper anchor point
#1
Thread Starter
Fork Horn
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 407
Likes: 0
From: Muskegon,Michigan
when you are drawing your string back to anchor point with a loop and release where is the correct anchor point i think my draw is to short the shop said he would leave it alone,can anyone help me with this...........Ted
#2
to my understanding anchor points are anchor points, one should be the tip of the nose, a kisser for the corner of the mouth then one of your knuckles some where just behind where yer jaw curves toward yer ear. depending on how you shoot these are the most used anchor points... i have a glove type release and i put the thumb knuckle closest to my palm in the joint that is created by my jaw and bone that is immediately behind my ear, this also puts a knuckle right at the corner of my eye for a 4th anchor point.
hope this helps.
but Ted i know these guys they are gonna want to see pictures which will help everyone help you better.
hope this helps.
but Ted i know these guys they are gonna want to see pictures which will help everyone help you better.
#3
Thread Starter
Fork Horn
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 407
Likes: 0
From: Muskegon,Michigan
ok Al,i will have to try to get a picture and down load it,this is all different to me i had to go from R/H to Left because of going blind in right eye,i can get another half in. out this without changing the mod but i need press for an x force,i have an omni bech press but it won't work on the xf,i shoot a glove release also i'm shooting a winn free flight rope release........Ted
#5
Guest
Posts: n/a
IMO, people have too long of a draw because they can hold it easier by locking thier arm back. IMO, AL draw is way too long. If you have to put your kisser more than one inch higher than top of you nocking point, then its too long. Also, I like to have another anchor. And thats my release hand under my jaw. With these short bows, people feel the need to have the string touch thier nose, but IMO, this is not neccessary.
If you set your anchor so your release hand is not all the way back under your ear and under the jaw, this give you room for followthru on your shot. In other words, pulling thru the shot, not gripping your release, bow shoulder down.
Classic too long draws usually have the archer leaning back.
If you set your anchor so your release hand is not all the way back under your ear and under the jaw, this give you room for followthru on your shot. In other words, pulling thru the shot, not gripping your release, bow shoulder down.
Classic too long draws usually have the archer leaning back.
#6
Nontypical Buck
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 2,188
Likes: 0
From: Balt, MD (orig: J-town,PA) The bowels of Hell!!!
This is an old picturefrom June or July of last year. However, it illustrates what big is talking about as far as anchor point and draw length is concerned.
#9
Nontypical Buck
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 2,188
Likes: 0
From: Balt, MD (orig: J-town,PA) The bowels of Hell!!!
Thanks guys. WhenI bought that bow my old bow had a 28.5" DL and when I told the guy at the shop he just looked at me and said, "You are 30" or 30.5." I was also using one of the Truball releases with the long jaw. Had me all messed up. I took me most of last year to fix what 1 bad fitted bow and release had done to me.
#10
Fork Horn
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 494
Likes: 0
From: Central Wisconsin
Ok, maybe it's just how I got started and what I'm used to, but...... If you use a peep and the same anchor with your hand, why do you need the kisser button? I shoot with a few guys that "have" to have that kisser and I don't get it. They have been shooting league for years and I outshoot them easily with a lot less practice. How many of you guys actually use the kisser button?


