Replacing strings
 

I'm one of those do it yourself guys and made my own bow press a couple of months ago but i have one question. What is the correct twist ratio between the cables and the string? I kind of guess at it and get close but was wondering if there is some sort of standard. I've never seen anyone change strings before so I came up with my own process after doing some research. This is the current process I use when changing my string. Please tell me if I am missing something. I put the new strings and cableson so the ATA length is correct. I try to get close to the ATA by twisting the cables first and then I twist the string untill the ATA changes then I back of a twist or two to try to balance the load. I then check for proper cam timing on my dually, tiller,cam lean, and creep tune to get perfect roll over. Just curious how the pro's do it.

RE: Replacing strings
 

Good question. I'm not a pro - butdid the same thing last month. Got in a little over my head, but was able to get there by mainly twisting the buss cable (Hoyt Protec). I did put three twists in both the control cable and the bowstring. Had the proshop check it at the end to make sure the cam sync and timing was good. I think if I had it to do over again, I would take careful measurements of the cam rotation position, ATA, brace height, and draw weight first - they replace one string/cable at a time, instead of all three at once- twistingeach respective oneto maintain the specs of the original setup. Shoot it for 50 shots or so for break in - and then give it a final tweaking.

There are a lot of technical specs that go into these compound bows and, unless you have been to a Mathews or Hoyt or Bowtech school, you are wandering around in uncharted territory. Nonetheless, I like to tinker as well and there isn't much you could mess up that couldn't be straightened out later by the pro shop.

RE: Replacing strings
 

There should be one twist for each 2-3 inches of string or cable length. I set the brace height and poundage with the cable(s), then the cam rotation with the string and try to keep everything with relatively the same # twists per inch between them all.

RE: Replacing strings
 

I don't think there can be a set ratio between the string and cable. It would depend on how long each is in relation to the other. However, I've used strings from several of he better custom makers and they almost always come ready to go and have about a twist (complete revolution) per 1 1/2" of string.

You can add or subtract a twist or two to get proper peep orientation, but the cables can be twisted or untwisted more because it won't affect the peep.

RE: Replacing strings
 

Bgfisher is correct , you need more than 1 twist for every 2-3 inches. I twist mine like he said 1 twist for every 1.5 inches . If you only twist them 1 for every 2-3 inches be prepared for peep twisting.

RE: Replacing strings
 

Sorry but that's just hasn't been my experience. I've gone as little as 1 per 6 inches and haven't had any peep issues. If the string's not creeping it doesn't matter how many twists are in the string, it won't effect peep rotation.

From the Brownell technical spec.'s:
Bowstring materials Recommended number of strands

Brownell recommends 1 twist in the string for each 2-3 inches of string length

Xcel
Ultra Cam
TSPlus
D75 Thin
D75
Fast Flight Plus
B-50


20
16
20
20
16
18
16

RE: Replacing strings
 

I don't know if all replacement strings come pre twisted; but the Winner's Choice and Gibblet strings I have used were both already twisted at the rate of about one twist per every 2" or so. I'm assuming from some of the responses here that some replacement strings come untwisted?

RE: Replacing strings
 

Well, I'll tell ya what Roskoe. If strings come NOT twisted then they better be made between 1/4" and 1/2' longer than they shoulod be in finished form on the bow. I'm certain that string makers like Gibblet make the string longer and twist it down before prestretching it. They may stretch it before twisting. Also, they are twisted to finished length and put under pressure when applying the serving, too. This is what helps the serving not move or separate.

These are a couple of differences between good aftermarket strings and crappy factory strings. Take a look at how many twists are in many low end entry level bows. Hardly any. They are just thrown together to hold the bow parts in one piece.

RE: Replacing strings
 

Whatever Gibblet does to his strings is working. Haven't had any stretch to speak of - nor any peep rotation since the get-go.