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? for you bowtech pros
Ok I'm tuning a brand new '07 Allegiance. I have a trophytaker prong horn rest. I set the rest to be sure that I have clearance and then used a bow square to find my knocking point. Then shot through paper @ about 6ft and was tearing low. So through trail and error found that I had to adjust the rest down in order to shoot bullet hole. So after I got the bow shooting good holes i put the bow square on it to see just how low it was. It's like 3/4 of an inch low.I haven't had a chance to shoot it at any distance, but I surly don't like the set up even though it is shooting good holes. Some one that I trust fairly well said that on the newer bows paper tuning is not working. So how should I tune this thing. Any help would be greatly appreciated. By the way I am shooting gold tip xt 5575 28.5" long with 2" blazers 80grn tips.
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RE: ? for you bowtech pros
Use the bow square to set up your nock point in reference to the shelf. Put the rest on the bow. Then put an arrow on your nock point and lay it on the raised rest with a level on it. Then adjust your rest up or down to get a level arrow. Now just make sure that when the rest goes down, after the shot,it goes down far enough to be out of the way.
I always just set my nock point so that the arrow is even with the berger holes. I don't use a bow square. Doesn't seem to hurt doing it that way. |
RE: ? for you bowtech pros
ORIGINAL: String Burn Ok I'm tuning a brand new '07 Allegiance. I have a trophytaker prong horn rest. I set the rest to be sure that I have clearance and then used a bow square to find my knocking point. Then shot through paper @ about 6ft and was tearing low. So through trail and error found that I had to adjust the rest down in order to shoot bullet hole. So after I got the bow shooting good holes i put the bow square on it to see just how low it was. It's like 3/4 of an inch low.I haven't had a chance to shoot it at any distance, but I surly don't like the set up even though it is shooting good holes. Some one that I trust fairly well said that on the newer bows paper tuning is not working. So how should I tune this thing. Any help would be greatly appreciated. By the way I am shooting gold tip xt 5575 28.5" long with 2" blazers 80grn tips. Also, I have been adding black tape the back of the arrow to count for fletching wieght. Also, in your setup, I would have moved the nocking point and not so much the rest. You want to make sure your not gettin clearance. |
RE: ? for you bowtech pros
ORIGINAL: bigcountry I find 30-40 yards bareshaft tuning to be more sensitive. I have paper tuned many times and don't exactly have a bullet hole, but close enough to where I have trouble diffientiating holes when I make changes. But bareshafting out to 30-40 yards, is very sensitive. And everytime I bareshaft it and shoot with my fletched arrows, I go back in and shoot it thru paper, and see perfect bullet holes. |
RE: ? for you bowtech pros
Walk back tune and bare shaft tune;)
Dan |
RE: ? for you bowtech pros
mean v please elaboratei am relatively new to these new styles of tuning.
how do you perform each one. If there is a link you can send me to post it. Thanks for your post. |
RE: ? for you bowtech pros
I've explained walkback tuning a couple times in here... I dug up the posts to help you on that:
I'll try for a real basic, simple explanation... Shoot at the top of your target (preferably in the middle as well) from 20 yards using your 20-yard pin. Tie a string with some weighted material at the end to keep your string hanging straight down (something like a threaded nut would probably work perfectly...). Walk back at least 10 yards, and -- using your 20-yard pin again, aim at the first arrow. Walk back at least 10 yards again, and -- again, using your 20-yard pin, aim at the first arrow. You can keep walking back and repeating this until you run out of shooting room. The purpose of the string is to help you see if your arrows are falling perfectly in line, and if you have your bow tuned perfectly for centershot. The second, third, fourth (and any other arrows you've shot) should be in a direct line below the first arrow. Hang a weighted string from a nail on a target. Stick a round sticker on the target face so that the string splits the sticker. Use your 20-yard pin, step back 20 yards from the target andshoot at the sticker. Don't worry about where the arrow hits. Walk straight back to 30 yards, and using the 20-yd pin,shoot an arrow at the sticker. Repeat at 35 yards and at 40 yards, using the 20-yard pin andshoot at the sticker. If your arrows look like this pattern " / ", then move your arrow rest 1/16th inch to the right. If your arrows look like this pattern " \ ", then move your arrow rest 1/16th inch to the left. Repeat all of the above steps starting from 20 yds, etc. Eventually, your arrows will hit in the target in a straight up and down line like this: " | ". But, your vertical pattern of arrows may not be hitting the string. If not, and the arrows are say six inches to the left of the weighted string, adjust your windage on your sight ring until you can nail the string at all distances. Lock down the windage and lock down the arrow rest. Windage and center shot are now perfect. And finally a thread I found while looking for the above which has some pretty good advice in it by some of the best technicians who frequent this forum: http://www.huntingnet.com/forum/tm.aspx?m=1684308&mpage=1 |
RE: ? for you bowtech pros
This is a very good explanation with diagrams to go along with it. This was done by nuts & bolts over on AT...he's a very good source for information.
Walk back tuning to set the arrow rest position (centershot) AND then, set the sight windage (horizontal position of your pins or lens)... Hang a weighted string from a nail on a target. Stick a round sticker on the target face so that the string splits the sticker. Use your existing 20-yd pin, step back 20-yards from the target and fire at the sticker. Don't worry about where the arrow hits. Walk straight back to 30 yds, and using the same 20-yd pin setting, fire an arrow at the sticker. Repeat at 35 yds and at 40 yds, using the 20-yd pin and firing at the sticker. If your arrows look like this pattern " / " or “\”, then pick a direction and move your arrow rest 1/16th inch.  If the pattern gets straighter (more vertical), then that is great. Keep adjusting in that direction.  If the pattern gets more crooked, then adjust in the other direction. Keep firing arrows and keep adjusting the arrow rest position until you get a vertical pattern of arrows. Eventually, your arrows will hit in the target is a straight up and down line like this " | ".  LOCK down the arrow rest setting. Your centershot is perfect. But, your vertical pattern of arrows may not be hitting the string. The vertical pattern of arrows may be on one side of the string. Let’s say the arrows are say 6-inches to the left of the weighted string.  Pick a direction to adjust your sight ring windage. Adjust the sight ring windage 1/16th of an inch. Repeat the test. Fire arrows at least 3 distances, and see if the vertical pattern of arrows gets closer to the string. If the vertical pattern of arrows is getting closer to the string, then that is great. Keep adjusting in that direction. If the vertical pattern of arrows is getting farther away, then adjust in the other direction. Eventually, you will have a vertical pattern of arrows right on top of the string. Lock down the windage and lock down the arrow rest. Windage and center shot are now perfect. |
RE: ? for you bowtech pros
Thanks ya'll this looks like a lot of great info
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RE: ? for you bowtech pros
You could try French tuning. By the way, on my '07 Ally I have my arrow centered on the top of the berger hole.
I prefer French because it seems to take the least amount of time, is simple and straight forward, lets you practice and a distanceand to me has proven to work. Stand about 4 yds away from the target and sight in your bottom pin (50 yd)to hit dead center. Go back to 50 yds and use the bottom pin shooting 3 arrows. If you hit left move the rest a hair right. If you shoot low move the rest a hair up. Reverse for right hits and high hits. Go back to 4 yds and see if you are still dead on. If not, adjust your sight to correct this and then go back to 50 yds and shoot again and adjust accordingly. |
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