Draw Board
 

I was wondering how many of you utilize a draw board to check draw stop timing? I've been reading up on this method, and the opinons on it's effectiveness varies. If you don't utilize this, what other method is better/recommended? It seems for any type of draw stop timing/cam snych, you need to have a either a second person with you or a device such as a draw stop to make these necessary adjustments. Since I'm often alone when working with my bows, I feel that a draw board would be a nice tool to have. Then again, I don't here it mentioned here much, so is it truly necessary? Opinions?

RE: Draw Board
 

I love my draw board. I am always on my own working on my bows with my son in the Navy now. It is a great way to get things adjusted exactly where you want them. I have tried the hook in the ceiling and pull down method but that was hard to get real picky with. The draw board works great. I built my own with a 2x6 and a boat winch. On one end I drilled a hole and put a 1/2 inch piece of black pipe thru it. On the back Ihave the thread base screwed to the bottom of the board over the hole. I screw in the pipe from the front. This way the pipe goes thru the entire board and it prevents the base plate from pulling out. I put a little pipe insulation on the pipe sticking up to protect the bow. Mount the boat winch on the other end of the board and you are ready to go.

RE: Draw Board
 

:D:D:D:D Hey! This is a family site!! (I think you mean "winch"). ;)

RE: Draw Board
 

Yep you would be correct. I fixed it.

RE: Draw Board
 

Thanks for the replies guys. Wihunter, do you have any pictures of your setup? I've seen many different setups and it seems like there's varying opinions on techniques/materials, etc. I've heard it's best to place the peg/rod about 2-3" down from the crank to best simulate the different planes that exist when pulling back a bow (location do your hand on the riser is lower than the nock point). Is this how yours is setup? I've also heard mention that these are best suited to verify/adjust draw stop timing but NOT cam synch. How does one go about adjusting/checking cam sync?

RE: Draw Board
 

I'll try to get some pictures tonight and post them tomorrow. As for cam sync I use it for that on my hoyts. I also have a turn buckle on my winch rope so that Ican adjust in very small amounts.

RE: Draw Board
 

Ok heres a dumb question...what the heck is a Draw Board????

RE: Draw Board
 

It's a device used to draw back your bow so you can analyize the draw cycle (adjust cam synch, cam timing, etc). You have to make adjustments on a bow bress, but you can see the effects of the adjustments (or if adjustments need to be made) on the draw board. Here's a picture of one.

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/attach...p;d=1198805741

RE: Draw Board
 

How do you get the draw board to exactly replicate your grip? Everybody grips the bow differently, right? And tiller tuning exists because of our individual holding tendencies. That being said, how accurate can the draw board be?

I've never used one, I'm just askin'....

RE: Draw Board
 

I use a draw board, but not for cam timing. For cam timing, I will get it as close as I can by eye, and then do a creep tune on the bow to get it into final timing position. The whole point behind timing (besides maximum efficiency) is to reduce nock travel for those weak shots where you may not execute the shot from the same position in the valley every time. This makes your poor shots hit the same or at least VERY close to the same spot as your normal shots. I'm a LOT more concerned with where the arrows actually hit from the deepest part of the valley, as compared to the back wall, as compared to the front of the valley because thats where the rubber meets the road in terms of consistency for you as the shooter.

With that said, the draw board is a fantastic tool to get a bow setup to the correct draw length, and a fantastic tool to help get your tiller settings in check. I don't have one of my own yet but will be building one soon.

RE: Draw Board
 

I am actually considering building a drawing machine that will be able to shoot the bow as well and a simple adjustment would allow you to check the nock travel as well.

I would just have a field day getting everything setup at full draw as it should be.

I just can't justify the cost of a hooter shooter when they really are simple to build,my problem is that darn tuit again.

RE: Draw Board
 

TFOX, one of the locals here built a hooter shooter that works really well. Next time I'm there I'll post pics. We use it to tune arrows for field archery and FITA.

That first arrow at 90 meters is always fun to watch.....lol. All you can do it line it up as best as possible, and watch a $40 X10 with tungsten point let loose and hope it hits the butt somewhere......[8D]

RE: Draw Board
 

Ok, a question for Matt, Tfox, and anyone else with information in this area. I've heard mention to creep tuning several times, but nothing in detail on what it truly is (well I think it's shooting from the front of the valley as opposed to the back/wall, correct?). How do you do it, and what does it consist of. The whole purpose of me considering the draw board, is because I'm starting to take a serious interest in bow tuning, and have been reading up on a lot of cam tuning/draw stop synch tuning methods, but I'm still a bit confused (ok, a lot confused:D). Matt, you mention you set up timing by eye best as possible, what are you looking for? The points on the cams from the manufacturer? The relation of the draw stops and the position of the cables top and bottom? Just kind curious, because I keep getting conflicting reports on cam/draw stop synch vs. cam timing and how to effectively do each.

I'm reading over the binary cam tuning thread on AT, where they mention NOT using the dots on the cams for synch left by the manufacturer due to unequal forces being applied to the top and bottom (the whole point of setting tiller)...so is cam synch simple set once you set tiller, and thus not needed? I'm in over my head[&:]

RE: Draw Board
 

With tungsten points those arrows are getting over 40 a piece,well over.[:-]

That is the biggest advantage of a shooting machine but they are the cats meow for creep tuning as well.



M hensler,I have a Hoyt that was creep tuned on a hooter shooter and my cables are very close to middle of my holes in the cams,be careful what you read on that other site.[8D]

AND,my bow tuned better than 99% of the bows that have ever been on the machine and this machine has had bows on it that have set WORLD records.;)

Some good info but some not so good as well over there.


EDIT,The holes are not used to SET the timing,that is set by having the cam rollover hitting the flat portion of the cam module at the same time at full draw.The holes are just for reference later.

The whole purpose of creep tuning is to set the cams to be forgiving to creeping which is something that most archers will do from time to time.Basically set the cam timing up so that it shoots the same from the front of the valley as it does hard off the wall.


It is just a matter of twisting the cables to set the timing so it is hitting the same,you do it by shooting off the front and twisting the cables a 1/2 turn at a time and check where you hit and repeat untill it is hitting the same.

Sorry my answer is so vague,I am pressed for time.There is a really good article on www.bowmanbows.com if you can get it to come up,I was having trouble.

RE: Draw Board
 

Might have to make one but for now I just hook it up to a scale and pull down. I can see what's going on.

RE: Draw Board
 

If you have a hoyt, reflex, or any other hybrid cam bow check out this thread:

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=207391

RE: Draw Board
 

Here isa picture of my board.

RE: Draw Board
 

Here is a picture of the bottom to show how I anchored the pipe. You can see from both pictures that I have the base on top and bottom. There is no way that is going to pull out.

RE: Draw Board
 

I find I use mine more every year;)

Dan