Alignment and rest clearance help
#11
Dan, completely appreciate the advice. Been bowhunting for close to 15 years but am amazed at how little I know about my equipment. As you can see, I'm trying to change that. Tried the cock down, and didn't sem to have any clearance issues. I guess when I walk back tune that will tell me if I have a spine issue??
#12
ORIGINAL: loogout1
Dan, completely appreciate the advice. Been bowhunting for close to 15 years but am amazed at how little I know about my equipment. As you can see, I'm trying to change that. Tried the cock down, and didn't sem to have any clearance issues. I guess when I walk back tune that will tell me if I have a spine issue??
Dan, completely appreciate the advice. Been bowhunting for close to 15 years but am amazed at how little I know about my equipment. As you can see, I'm trying to change that. Tried the cock down, and didn't sem to have any clearance issues. I guess when I walk back tune that will tell me if I have a spine issue??

Dan
#13
I suppose, I might ask how far are you shooting good groups??? If you're shooting good groups out to 40 or so yards, I'd not worry one little tiny bit about a little fletch contact. I really like walk-back tuning, as it tells me more about where I need to go than anything else. But in all honesty, I've got a feeling that isn't the case. As Dan said, you may want to try cock-vane down, and deer if that helps and that is where you'll seem to have the maximum clearance looking at the rest. And like yourself, I bowhunted for several years before I started figuring out what I was doing wrong. Once I started learning, I couldn't believe how SCREWED up a lot of my stuff was. In the last 5 yrs, I've learned far more than I'd had ever known I was missing. I spent MANY years being quite ignorant. The internet is such a wonderful tool for us to learn from, it is quite remarkable.
#14
In my experience,when having to set the nock high to get a good paper tear,that will indicate a light spine,when you have a good level nock travel BUT that is a funny game that will yield different results in different situations.The rest indicates a stiff spine issue,especially if the rest is pushed out past centershot just a bit.
So,it is either torque, spine,or a little of both but as long as it is consistant,not a major issue but might be fun to play with in the offseason to learn and tinker with.
Might take a look at my tuning thread at the top and try some of those just to see how they work out for you.
So,it is either torque, spine,or a little of both but as long as it is consistant,not a major issue but might be fun to play with in the offseason to learn and tinker with.
Might take a look at my tuning thread at the top and try some of those just to see how they work out for you.
#15
Don't give too much thought to the sight pins being to the left. This is often the result of torque---not your's, the bow's. You see that cable guard pulling (torquing) the cables to the right? Well, something has to counteract this and that's usually why the pins are to the left of the string.
#16
Thanks for the help guys. Sorry for the reply delay, I was at work for the last 24+ hours. I'm just trying to get my bow shooting the best it can, and learn more about set-up and tuning. I think the bow is shooting pretty good as it stands, and any problem is most probably pilot error. My groups(BHs and field points)out to 40 were pretty good way back before oct. but will definitely be walk back tuning and all the other good things in Tfoxs'stickyas soon as weather permits just so I know any problem there is, is me and not the bow.
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bigcountry25
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06-18-2005 02:45 AM




