Bare shaft testing intepretation
 

Need some help intepreting my bare shaft results. I shoot lefthanded, if that matters. Here are a couple pics. I believe I may be slightly underspined.

RE: Bare shaft testing intepretation
 

You can't tell anything about arrow angle in that kind of target. You need virgin foam or some other kind of non-directional target material to do that. If you shot from more than 10 yards, I'd call the bare shaft hitting that close to the fletched shaft pretty good. Back off to 20 yards and if they still hit that close together, it's definitely good.

RE: Bare shaft testing intepretation
 

Also, be careful. The only bad thing about bare shaft is you are taking off 20gr or more off the back which makes them fly little stiffer.

RE: Bare shaft testing intepretation
 

To correct the weight difference in the back, I add masking tape to the shaft in amounts equals to the fletching I use. It takes very little to match the weight of feathers. You don't have to match everything perfect when bareshafting. Getting close will generally get your broadheads flying real well.

When bareshafting with a traditional bow I don't go past 20 yards. When using a compound, I make sure I can get back to 40 and still have the bareshaft grouping with the fletched. I don't worry if it's off slightly vertically, but I want the left and rights to be nonexistant. For this kind of accuracy at that distance, you usually have to be willing to fiddle a bit with tip weight and draw weight. Just make sure your arrow length gets you close at 20 yards and it's easy to fine tune with the others.

RE: Bare shaft testing intepretation
 

straight, I have considered using pin nocks but thats a good idea, never thought of. But in the end with bare shaft, I am just looking for rough setup for a bow, and then fine tune on paper or broadheads.

I also don't trust bare shafting unless its around 30 yards with compound.

RE: Bare shaft testing intepretation
 

It looks like you are using feathers so the weight should be pretty close to the same as the fletched ones. Especially considering you do it the way I do it. You left the base of the fletchings and glue on and just shaved the fletchings off. I bet your FOC for that arrows is almost identical.

How far were you shooting those two arrows from? It doesn't get much better than that! Bare shaft testing is really designed for finger shooters, keep that in mind. But it can tell you some things even when using a release.

Like Arthur said, pay no attention to the angle of the arrows. It means very little for your set up. You are only concerned with WHERE the arrows hit in relationship to each other. If you can't seem to bring them together with minor rest or nock adjustment then start looking at spine. Providing you have well matched arrows.

I also agree if that was at 10 yards move back to 15 or 20 and see what happens. And remember this is based on how well you can shoot. Shooting arrows with no fletchings on them is very non forgiving and requires VERY good form. If you shoot them at 20 yards and they are within a few inches of each other I personally would leave it alone. And remember, this is considering you can consistently shoot 2 inch groups at 20 yards. If you can't don't expect to be able to do it with one fletched arrow and one unfletched arrow. Many people try to tune better than they can shoot and end up going insane over it;).

Good luck,
Paul