Arthur P

I hear ya!

JoeRE

Ok, so I know what you are talking about on the first two...butwhat do you mean when you sayhaving thicker blades has something to do with my deflections? The bladesare not breaking. Do you mean they (thinner blades) get dull faster,blade quality aside,when hitting hard tissue?

btw, i shoot the lighter head for more speed.

Kanga

Joe.

Thin blades will get dull sitting on a shelf in open air add to that taking them out and putting them back into a quiver they loose their edge fast. Most people sharpen their heads at the begining of the season and think thats it they dont need to be re-sharpened during the season because they have not been shot.

The thicker the blade the longer they will hold their edge plus a thick blade will not slide along bone they will smash through it. I have some Broad Heads here that are .043 thick that have been shot into a Jellow Jacket a lot and those heads will still shave hair, unfortunately I cant say the same for thin blades.

Speed is not everything I can shoot in the high 280's with my set up but prefer heavy thick blade broad heads with extreme FOC for better flight stability (specially if there is a cross wind)and penetration. I want the front pulling the arrow not the arrow pushing the front as that is what washes off your momentium which we all know is what gives us the best penetration.

archer 2

Jore, your arrows are not only slightly underspined , they are horribly underspined for that draw length and that poundage. Doesnt it make you wonder why when you were shooting the 2219's and blowing through everything then you change arrows to get more "speed" things start to happen. Go back to a heavier shaft that is spined correctly and you wont have those wounded deer out there.

TFOX

ditto and x2

bigcountry

Did we really get anywhere with the aluminum conversation with him. I don't think this is going to be any different.

Straightarrow

Actually, I'm not going to bang my head on a brick wall or argue with one.