RiverCity

I am new to all of this and the more I read about carbon arrows the more I am confused. I am not sure that I am shooting the right arrow or the one that was most convient for the shop.

I have aGuardian 70pound bow. Adjusted to about 65 pounds with a 28.5 draw and a current arrow length of 29.25 lenght

I am currently shooting the lt whitetail 65/80
I do not know the weight, spine or seight of my arrow tips.

I assume I would like to shoot around 100 grain tip as that seems what looks like a number of braodheads will weight and plan to shoot fixed blades as there does not seems to be a problem with hunting those anywhere.
Thanks for your help in advance.

Roskoe

If you were shooting Easton arrows, you would be just past the line between a 400 series spine anda 340 series spine. With a little shorter arrow, a couple pounds lighter draw weight, or a 75 gr. head; you could use a 400 series arrow. I might crank the bow up a couple of pounds, if it's not overbowing you,andtry a 340 arrow.

RiverCity

Ok i am planning to up the poundage here shortly. I have just gotten back into it and need a little time to get my shoulders to get back into shape.

I guess what I do not understand what is the difference between a 400 and 340 arrow.

Roskoe

It is basically a quantification of the stiffness of the arrow. I thinkthe number designation is something like a 28" arrow, suspended between two points, and a certain size weighthung from the middle. Ifthe arrowbends .400 of an inch from the weight, it is a 400 spine arrow. If it only bends .340", it is the stiffer 340 spine arrow.

Roskoe

Also, a shorter arrow is stiffer than a longer arrow; and a lighter broadhead or field tip makes an arrow stiffer. There are quite a few charts that address these variables. One of the best is on Easton's website.

Straightarrow

This is what most manufacturers make to supply the demand for speed. Low tip weights are a compromise to gain fps. However, accuracy, penetration and forgiveness are not ideal with such as low weight broadhead. Arrow spine is chosen after you choose a broadhead (tip weight). It needs to be stiff enough to match your tip weight at your draw length and draw weight. I chose a tip weight of 270 grains. There is no good reason to restrict yourself to 100 grains.

After you determine the tip weight and arrow spine, you can choose the quality level you can afford on the arrows. If you have the ability or willingness to learn how to spine tune with a spine tester, quality is not nearly as important. If not, then buy the best you can afford. After that, you can bareshaft tune to find the perfect length to have your arrows cut to. Do all this and you'll maximize the effectiveness of your choices.

stalkingbear

As far as quality,I buy the highest possible quality and straightest arrows (oops-shafts) available.

RiverCity

Now I am evan more confused.

Looks like I want to start with the tip weight as the part of my arrow choice. After looking at most of these broadheads it appears their ar alot in the 100 grain arena soI assumed that would be the one to go with(have not bought yet). What happens if I go higher then the 100 grain, what will it do to my arrow and flight. what are the advantages and disadvantages to going to a higher grain tip (maybe something I want to do I imagine the impact harder).

Where I am getting confused is the spine of the arrow. I understand the smaller the number the more stiff the arrow (now i do at least). What is the advantages of the stiffer arrow (say 400 difference then a 340) Looks like with my bow I am on the verge of having the 340 as the perfered choice.
what kind of arrow flight is going to be a more consistant arrow flight?

Roskoe

Although there are a small group of bowhunters who use heavy (over 125 grains) heads, I would suspect that 90% or more are shooting 100 grain tips. The reason to shoot the heavy head would be to increase the FOC (front of center) balance of the arrow and to provide increased penetration.

What the vast majority of folks I know have discovered is that, for regular critters like deer, elk, and black bear; the 100 grain heads provide very adequate penetration and very good accuracy. Good balance between speed and penetration as well.

Arrows of the proper spine are going to shoot straighter than arrows that are either too soft or too stiff. And they will allow you to properlytune your bow, which is almost an excercise in futility with an improperly spined arrow.

Last spring, I got some Easton ST Axis shafts. With my 61 lb. Hoyt and 100 gr. heads, I got the 400 series shafts. They come 31" long. After pouring over the charts, I figured that cutting them to 29" would put the stiffness very close to ideal. I could have gone as short as 27.5" because the arrow rest is set back on the riser, but thatwould be just a tad on the stiff side. So cut to 29", I shot a group with some of the first arrows I fletched and compared the point of impact with some bare shafts not yet fletched. The hit exactly the same spot at 20 yards. This is, in my experience, the acid test for correct arrow spine. If the shafts were too soft, the bare shaft arrow would hit to the right of the fletched shafts. And too stiff of an arrow would cause the bare shafts to hit to the left of the fletched arrows.

With the shafts spined to perfection, getting field points and broadheads to shoot to the same point was relatively easy.

RiverCity

THANK YOU FOR ALL OF THE HELP ROSKOE

I think I have final got what everything means. I figured I would use the 100 grain for what I am going to hunting it is not going to be that big and if I need to change I will figure it out at a later date.

The next question is how do I figure out what spine I really should be shooting. I figure there is something easy for me to figure out.