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What all do I need to get in check before I start paper tuning, and is there any websites with step by steps? Matthews Switchback XT

Oh this is going to open a can of worms:):D

The tuning process isn't all that hard to figure out if you start with the basics:
1) Shaft and vane selection
2) paper tuning
3) group tuning
4) creep Tuning
Over the years many arrow companies have devised charts and computer programs to help you quickly find the spine range that is best suited to individual applications.
(AA and TAP are both excellent programs, and the Easton charts are very close across the board)
Due to this, they are good reference points for most setups. The guys that normally go away from these charts or programs are those looking for a lighter weight arrow to compete in 3D, or those who are simply rebellious to begin with! It's all handled for you, let them do the work, IMHO.

All arrows paradox (bend) when they leave the bow,will bend differently due to differentials in their configurations and/or power source. To gain the best groupings and accuracy, this paradox must be negated
as quickly as possible. Those who tune to a bullet hole through paper at 6 or 9' produce a "knuckleball effect" on the arrow and it will take longer for it to paradox correctly, thus IMHO is not the best choice for supreme
accuracy at all distances. What top shooters and techs have found over the years is that an 11:00 tail-high left tear approx 1/4"-1/2" (right handed shooter with release) at 6-9' will produce a faster and more repeatable paradox on the arrow coming out of the bow, thus the arrow is more accurate. My findings have coincided with this theory,
and I've been tuning to this tear with all of my setups for years, as it gives the arrow "purpose".
Most top archers go directly to group tuning and Supertuning after choosing a correctly-spined arrow and "roughing it in",
and through this process have come to the tear mentioned above after correctly tuning for best groups at all yardages
and Supertuning. Most tune out to at least 40 yds, I personally go to 60, even on my hunting setups. Small adjustments
are all that is needed usually, either on the nocking point or rest, or in some instances timing of the cams.
(supertuning) It is admittedly tougher to get consistent groupings at longer distances unless you use a machine,
but by doing it yourself, you implement the individual "forgiveness factor" and know what you are capable of.
(This is big also when it comes to getting your individual tune) I start at 20, tune for groups, then check my Supertuning.
(twin cam only, sorry, they are more infinitely tunable) Then 40yd groups, then 60yd groups. Slight adjustments in tiller
can also help you hold better. Sometimes all it takes is a 1/4 turn to bring everything in.
This process cannot be rushed, and is up to each individual to determine how accurate they want to be and how tight they
wish to get their groups. I personally have both target bows and hunting bows, and I recommend tuning to each specific setup,
not trying to run everything together when it comes to field tips/broadheads. Like the bare shaft and fletched shaft
differential, shooting fixed blade broadheads and field points are two different animals also, and due to different lengths
of ferrule/drag on blades, etc, have different aerodynamics and will fly differently. (and should!) If you tune both together
to get a "happy medium", then that is what you get, and you cannot get the utmost out of either setup without directly tuning
to that individual configuration. All depends on what you want out of it, and how accurate you feel you should be for either
the tournaments you participate in, or for the game you seek. Personally, it's a no-brainer for me, and I work very hard to
make sure my setups are as precise as I can get them. It gives me ultimate confidence in my equipment knowing I've done all
I can do, and gives me one less thing to worry about when the 10 pt is standing out in front of my stand at 30 yds, or I'm
taking aim at a 11 ring on a McKensie Turkey at 48.

I have already got the arrows that I need. I am going wqith Gold Tip XT Hunter 7595s. I was just wondering as far as cam timing and stuff like that with the bow.

Quote:

ORIGINAL: Ausie-guy

Oh this is going to open a can of worms:):D

The tuning process isn't all that hard to figure out if you start with the basics:
1) Shaft and vane selection
2) paper tuning
3) group tuning
4) creep Tuning
Over the years many arrow companies have devised charts and computer programs to help you quickly find the spine range that is best suited to individual applications.
(AA and TAP are both excellent programs, and the Easton charts are very close across the board)
Due to this, they are good reference points for most setups. The guys that normally go away from these charts or programs are those looking for a lighter weight arrow to compete in 3D, or those who are simply rebellious to begin with! It's all handled for you, let them do the work, IMHO.

All arrows paradox (bend) when they leave the bow,will bend differently due to differentials in their configurations and/or power source. To gain the best groupings and accuracy, this paradox must be negated
as quickly as possible. Those who tune to a bullet hole through paper at 6 or 9' produce a "knuckleball effect" on the arrow and it will take longer for it to paradox correctly, thus IMHO is not the best choice for supreme
accuracy at all distances. What top shooters and techs have found over the years is that an 11:00 tail-high left tear approx 1/4"-1/2" (right handed shooter with release) at 6-9' will produce a faster and more repeatable paradox on the arrow coming out of the bow, thus the arrow is more accurate. My findings have coincided with this theory,
and I've been tuning to this tear with all of my setups for years, as it gives the arrow "purpose".
Most top archers go directly to group tuning and Supertuning after choosing a correctly-spined arrow and "roughing it in",
and through this process have come to the tear mentioned above after correctly tuning for best groups at all yardages
and Supertuning. Most tune out to at least 40 yds, I personally go to 60, even on my hunting setups. Small adjustments
are all that is needed usually, either on the nocking point or rest, or in some instances timing of the cams.
(supertuning) It is admittedly tougher to get consistent groupings at longer distances unless you use a machine,
but by doing it yourself, you implement the individual "forgiveness factor" and know what you are capable of.
(This is big also when it comes to getting your individual tune) I start at 20, tune for groups, then check my Supertuning.
(twin cam only, sorry, they are more infinitely tunable) Then 40yd groups, then 60yd groups. Slight adjustments in tiller
can also help you hold better. Sometimes all it takes is a 1/4 turn to bring everything in.
This process cannot be rushed, and is up to each individual to determine how accurate they want to be and how tight they
wish to get their groups. I personally have both target bows and hunting bows, and I recommend tuning to each specific setup,
not trying to run everything together when it comes to field tips/broadheads. Like the bare shaft and fletched shaft
differential, shooting fixed blade broadheads and field points are two different animals also, and due to different lengths
of ferrule/drag on blades, etc, have different aerodynamics and will fly differently. (and should!) If you tune both together
to get a "happy medium", then that is what you get, and you cannot get the utmost out of either setup without directly tuning
to that individual configuration. All depends on what you want out of it, and how accurate you feel you should be for either
the tournaments you participate in, or for the game you seek. Personally, it's a no-brainer for me, and I work very hard to
make sure my setups are as precise as I can get them. It gives me ultimate confidence in my equipment knowing I've done all
I can do, and gives me one less thing to worry about when the 10 pt is standing out in front of my stand at 30 yds, or I'm
taking aim at a 11 ring on a McKensie Turkey at 48.

I have used the method you describe and believe it does hold SOME merit.

My thread don't stop at walk back describes my method and I end up with a bullethole in most cases.Are we to start moving the rest to get a tear?

I also will not move to achieve a bullethole if that is what I end up with,but usually a spine issue FOR ME is causing the tear.

I amabsolutelyin agreement that an arrow must have some sort of movement but if the spine is right on the money,it has a vibration (kinda like a tuning fork) and that helps controll the arrow in flight,much like what you are trying with your tear.That is why I don't like a stiff spined arrow.

Now now"T" man:)

From the above post I do not shoot through paper anymore, I would get a perfect bullet hole then after the rest of the tuning I get the high left tear.

So I started to skip the paper it was a good starting point but thats all it was.;)

BUT,I check after doing all the tuning and I am getting a bullet holetear(most of the time).So should I change it to get a tear.;)

Quote:

Those who tune to a bullet hole through paper at 6 or 9' produce a "knuckleball effect" on the arrow and it will take longer for it to paradox correctly, thus IMHO is not the best choice for supreme
accuracy at all distances. What top shooters and techs have found over the years is that an 11:00 tail-high left tear approx 1/4"-1/2" (right handed shooter with release) at 6-9' will produce a faster and more repeatable paradox on the arrow coming out of the bow, thus the arrow is more accurate. My findings have coincided with this theory,

Personally, I have never gotten great broadhead flight with a tear anywhere near that. When shooting broadheads. There is only one rest position for that arrow that will not plane with broadhead attached. This can only be found in the field when doing a walk-back with broadheads. I usually shoot through paper when I'm done broadhead tuning - just to see what the tear is - usually it's a near bullet hole with a field tip attached.

There has never been only one thing that gave me great broadhead flight. It's a combination of things that add up to really good flight in all conditions. The things that I've found that are critical include - high FOC, helical fletching, spined tuned arrows and walk-back tuning with broadheads attached. For me, paper tuning has never entered the equation.