kwilson16

Does anyone have a good set of instructions for tuning/adjusitng tiller - other than the Easton tuning guide?

Arthur P

I've posted the method I use many, many times. Tried to find it for you so I wouldn't have to type it out once more, but the search function isn't working... AGAIN! Maybe SOMEDAY the forum will get a search function that actually works.[>:]

Anyway, here's the way I do it. There are some ways of doing this that are pretty involved. I've tried them all and settled on this one. Down and dirty.

1) Start off setting your tiller to where it measures equal distance from the limb to the string at each end of the riser. For a single cam bow, you have to stretch a string over the axles and measure to that, rather than to the bowstring.

2) Set your nock point.

3) Assume your normal shooting stance. Hold your bow out and put a sight pin on a point on the wall, target, etc. Any aiming point works fine. Begin to draw the bow straight back. (This is also an excellent test to determine if you are over-bowed.)

4) Watch the sight pin. It will probably pull off the target either up or down.

5) If the pin pulls up, you must take a turn off the top limb bolt, add a turn to the bottom limb bolt, or both. If it pulls down, take a turn off the bottom limb bolt, add a turn to the top one, or both. Keep adjusting in smaller increments until the pin doesn't try to move up or down as you draw.

6) Done. Now continue with your normal tuning procedure.

treboryerf

Arthur; will the tiller adjustment stay consistant pulling different draw weigts? ie,if i set tiiler on 50 lbs and the lower limb is say 1/8" less on the lower limb will this hold true if say i increase dr weight to say 62lbs?

Arthur P

There are no guarantees because you never know exactly how each limb is going to react as you change the amount of tension on them. But, if you turn each limb bolt exactly the same amount, then it should stay very close. You'll usually only need to make slight adjustments, if any.

treboryerf

Thanks ARTHUR. Man you guys know some stuff! I'm glad I found this site.

kwilson16

Thanks Arthur,
I will use the search engine when it is available.

I will try this out tonight.

Arrroman

KW,

The Easton Tuning Guide addresses tiller by adjusting the nocking point.

Your whisker biscuit will work best with the limb bolts set at an even tiller, which can be set real close by simply backing both limb bolts out from max an equal amount,and nocking the correct spine arrow at 90degrees to the bowstring.

The windage for the whisker biscuit for a right handed shooter, will often be about 1/8" to the outside of the centerline of the bow, because the bowstring when its released, moves a little bit to the left at the release.

The windage should be set to the point where the bow shoots its narrowest groups. Cam leans and cableguard tensions as well as draw weight are not going to be the same on all bows, so setting a bow up with a lazer is just a starting point not the end of the game.

If the bow is set at an even tiller, and the cams are in time, and you are shooting the correct spine arrow for the bow, and you have determined the correct windage setting for the rest, you should be shooting the arrow level from the bow.

If the arrow doesn't hit level, but hits nock high, you can adjust the tiller to correct by adding tiller to the lower limb, (tighten the lower limb bolt).

If the arrow doesn't hit level but hits nock low, you can correct the tiller by adding tiller to the upper limb, (tighten the upper limb bolt). Untill the arrow hits the bale level.

You can also subtract tiller from each limb to steer the nock lower or higher, while keeping the arrow nocked at 90degrees to the bowstring.

If you want to have the arrow hit with the nock lower either add tiller to the lower limb, or subtract it from the upper limb.

If you want to have the arrow hit with the nock higher either add tiller to the upper limb, or subtract it from the lower limb.

Even tiller bows shoot quieter because the limbs cancel each other out. The recoil at the shot is even and they don't kick up or down at the shot.

Properly set up your bow will shoot many differently spined arrows accurately at ten yards, but only the correct spine arrows for your bow will still hit the same vertical line at 10-20-30-40-50yards. Doing a walk-back tune with too light a spine arrow will show a hook to the left. Too heavy a spine will shoot to the right.

Most of the bows that I have set up with a whisker biscuit you could simply line up the centerline of the bowstring with the nocked arrow and the front sightpin and they would all line up together. Some bows had cam leans that needed the rest moved a bit to the left in order to shoot the best.

Good luck hunting! >>>------------>

kwilson16

Arroman,
Great info thanks. Just got new arrows and my WB is left of centerline as you predicted. The bow is27.5" @ 70 lbs 2006 Allegiancewith speed mods and 27" 5575 GT pro hunters with 100 grain tips. The WB is about as far to the left as prudent adjustment will allow. I was getting a more serious nock right tear (1"+ - see pic). It looked like my blazers were contacting the cable so I rotated the arrow a few degrees and the size of the right tear immediately decreased to about 3/8". I would like to get ride of the remaining right tear but I can't move the WB any further left.

With the limb bolts buried, I have a very slight nock high tear (1/8"). I mightloosen theupperlimb bolt to see if I can get rid of it.I can live with this small nock high tear. The left is more worrisome (to me).

Any further suggestions on the right nock tear?

Arrroman

KW,

In my experience the 55/75 GT Hunters ran out of spine at@63#@30".

With a 70# bow the arrow absorbs over 500Gs at launch.

You might want to either lower your draw weight to match your arrow to a walk-back tune or experiment with a stiffer shaft.

If your bow does hit the same vertical line at all distances the slight tail-right you get could be caused by too tight a grip on your bow.

Sorting things out should be fun. Get some rubber blunts and shoot at 100yards at a cardboard box or a bale target and see how the arrows actually fly. Take your time and use your best shooting form. Any bias in your grip, shooting form, and in your bowtune will be easy to see at this range. And your confidence in closer range shots will increase too.

Good luck hunting! >>>------------>

kwilson16

Arrroman,
The arrows are only 27" (vice 30") so I hope I am not underspined. My walk back tuning is good so maybe I should work on my grip and leave it alone...?