Dryridge

OK, I am not going to cut and past all this straight arrow. I agree with arrowman on this one. No need to bare shaft tune. Yes Screw in broadheads and paper tune using the rest IF everything was properly set before. Again I agree that Proper spine will shoot, improper won't.

Single cam....Does you cam feed the idler at the same time it takes up the buss cable.....are you sure. Make some marks and find out. If you have your buss cable too tight or loose it will not feed correctly due to higher preload on one side....either cable or string. It takes marks on both idler and cam to see it and you can't do it on the draw cycle, has to be on the release cycle. The mathews maxcam is well known for this and it is hyper prone to cable stretch.

As for bare shafts, do it if that is your method. But to me, It turned out to be a waste of valuable time with my family. It never made my BH's shoot any better than the method listed above. No harm, no foul, we can pleasantly agree to disagree.

Gods Blessings to you,

Dave

gibblet

man, i make the bow ride my shooting style - the way art says. factory specs and even tiller are for the birds. the front of the bow will only fit a fraction of the population at factory specs.

Dryridge

I am gonna sound ignorant here but who said bottom out and factory specs?? I sure didn't....did I?

If I did, I been working way too hard![]

Straightarrow

No arguement there. I'm sure guys with your experience can get quite close by just knowing what arrow configuration works with your preferred setup. I'm usually almost exact without much testing, simply because I've done it so many times. However, I often wonder about inexperienced guys. Hopefully they have a talented person at the local bow shop to get them setup properly. My response is for those who don't. I bareshaft because I like getting things exact, even if it's not completely neccessary. As far as the time spent bareshafting, it can be very little if you have some experience at what adjustment needs to be made next. If you don't have that experince, it's even more important that a person does it. I've seen guys stand in front of paper way longer than what it takes me to get the spine spot-on. My point is, if you're not sure what will work, bareshafting is what will tell you exactly what is happening.

I realize that you can have spine off a bit and correct it with movement away from centershot with the rest. I don't like doing this because I think bows that have their rest set to perfect centershot, shoot with more forgiveness when using broadheads. Therefore, if I want to have the arrow aligned on centershot, I can only adjust spine to accomplish the perfect broadhead flight. Bareshafting is the only way I've found to do this well.

I find many beginners and those at an intermediate level of experience, spending a lot of time tuning their bows and almost no time tunig their arrows. It is my firm belief that if they reversed that effort, they'd end up with much better shooting setups for broadhead tipped arrows.

Arrroman

It takes time to learn about things.

If the only bow you had ever seen was one that had been improperly stored in an overheated shed, chances are the nock would be too high, the strings stretched, and the cams severely out of time, and it would shoot poorly and be loud as hell when shot.

I try to steer people in the direction where they can get their equipment back to the state in which it was originally designed.

Hopefully people will have the prescience of mind to make the appropriate adjustment to their tackle and avoid the problems that may occur.

Just because a bowshould beset at its correct brace height, ATA, and correct cam rotation, at its maximum draw weight to be tuned; that doesn't mean you can't lower its weight to shoot it.

The point is you have to start somewhere. And establishing a baseline where you can't ask anymore from the limbs then what they were designed for is a pretty good place to start.

Most of todays bows are designed to be shot at an even tiller. And to launch an arrow level from an even tillered bow the best place to nock your arrow is at 90degrees to the bowstring.

The proof is in the shooting.

If you want to screw with the nockpoint to match the tiller, that can work too.

But if you can add or subtract tiller from either limb to achieve the same thing, why would you risk beating up the serving on your string to do it?

Good luck hunting! >>>------------>

Rick James

Wow what a pile of confusing and conflicting information here..........[:-].

In my opinion to be adjusting tiller for nock position or timing is simply a bandaid and easy fix when these issues should probably be fixed by using another method. In my opinion using tiller to fix these items is going to affect holding characteristics of the bow........1/8-1/4 turn can so drastically change the float of your dot on a target and the thought of changing this from optimum position for your hold on a target (which may or may not be a 0 tiller setting) so that you can change location ofa nock point that can/should rather be made by moving nock point, or to use it to change timing that can/should rather be made by twisting cables is ridiculous.

Help me to understand how exactly todays bows are designed to be shot at an even tiller when we as shooters are all different and we all have 1000's of different accessory options that affect the way we hold the bow at full draw in regards to balance?

Knowing no two people grip the bow the same way, and that something as minute as stabilizer weight and balance can offset where on the grip of the bow pressure is being applied at full draw, how can even tiller be designed into a bow as optimum?When we as shooters aren't consistent from person to person with hand placement, and our accessories on the bow create different front/back balance scenarioshow can 0 tiller be optimum?

Nomsayin?

gibblet

i can guarantee you he doesn't know what you're saying. matter of fact i think he made most of it up, or copied it from a book.