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Limb Settings
When you first start to tune a bow, how should you set the limbs?I remember back like 20 years ago, youwoulduse a bow square to set brace hieght little more on one side than theother. Do you just crank down the limbs all the way,and back out equally until you are at desired peak poundage on draw?
I notice alot of bow tuners just cranking down all teh way and backing out evenly. |
RE: Limb Settings
It depends on the Bow you have..Most back outthe same amount ofturns for each limb..
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RE: Limb Settings
ORIGINAL: glockman55 It depends on the Bow you have..Most back outthe same amount ofturns for each limb.. I have several different types. I have recurves, 2 dual cam PSE, and a single cam. How would each be handled? |
RE: Limb Settings
I have a solo cam, and if the cam is in time..you just back out the same turns per limb..no more than 5, on a mathews..You know how to check the timing on your mathews?
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RE: Limb Settings
big c, if you take out even turns until you get where you want - that's as good a place to start as any. if it seems to be jerking you up or down when you're drawing or executing your shot, turn the opposite limb 1/8 of turn in at a time (or less even) until its perfect feeling. it'll also effect your nock height a little, so you may need to re-check and then move your rest up or down a little - not your loop - because that'll undo what you just did.
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RE: Limb Settings
ORIGINAL: glockman55 I have a solo cam, and if the cam is in time..you just back out the same turns per limb..no more than 5, on a mathews..You know how to check the timing on your mathews? But on the dual cams, do you know how that works? I just keep remembering back when I had my Bear Whitetail hunter, you wanted a longer distance between the top of your riser to the string than the bottom by like 1/4". Wonder what has changed? |
RE: Limb Settings
ORIGINAL: bigcountry ORIGINAL: glockman55 I have a solo cam, and if the cam is in time..you just back out the same turns per limb..no more than 5, on a mathews..You know how to check the timing on your mathews? But on the dual cams, do you know how that works? I just keep remembering back when I had my Bear Whitetail hunter, you wanted a longer distance between the top of your riser to the string than the bottom by like 1/4". Wonder what has changed? |
RE: Limb Settings
ORIGINAL: gibblet big c, if you take out even turns until you get where you want - that's as good a place to start as any. if it seems to be jerking you up or down when you're drawing or executing your shot, turn the opposite limb 1/8 of turn in at a time (or less even) until its perfect feeling. it'll also effect your nock height a little, so you may need to re-check and then move your rest up or down a little - not your loop - because that'll undo what you just did. |
RE: Limb Settings
ORIGINAL: gibblet big c, if you take out even turns until you get where you want - that's as good a place to start as any. if it seems to be jerking you up or down when you're drawing or executing your shot, turn the opposite limb 1/8 of turn in at a time (or less even) until its perfect feeling. it'll also effect your nock height a little, so you may need to re-check and then move your rest up or down a little - not your loop - because that'll undo what you just did. |
RE: Limb Settings
Here it is:
ORIGINAL: Arthur P If you really want to maximize your performance, forget about going over the top in poundage. Adjust your dynamic tiller instead. Some guys have a really complicated method for doing that. My way is quick and easy and works just fine - unless you're a world class shooter. Assume your shooting position. Hold your bow straight out and place a sight pin on a target. Now, draw the bow straight back and watch what the pin does. It will likely pull off the target, either up or down. Usually up, for me. If it pulls up, then your top limb is overpowering the bottom limb. Take a turn off the top bolt, add a turn to the bottom one, or both. If it pulls down, then your bottom limb is overpowering the top limb. Take a turn off the bottom limb bolt, add a turn to the top, or both. Repeat the process until you can draw the bow straight back and the pin will stay relatively close to the target. Now you've got the limbs working together. They're fire at the same speed, which will make the shot smoother and quieter, and very likely increase your arrow speed. They'll be under equal tension at full draw so the bow will be much steadier while holding on target. They'll return to brace at the same time, so recoil, vibration and noise will be reduced, often dramatically. The bow will be much easier to tune, also. After I check to make sure my axle to axle length and brace height are in factory spec, and set an approximate nocking point, turning the tiller is the first adjustment I make to the bow when I'm doing a serious tune up. |
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