Limb Settings
04-27-2007, 11:58 AM
#11
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Kodiak, AK
Posts: 2,877
RE: Limb Settings
ORIGINAL: bigcountry
I have a bowtech, and yes, I know how to check timing.
But on the dual cams, do you know how that works? I just keep remembering back when I had my Bear Whitetail hunter, you wanted a longer distance between the top of your riser to the string than the bottom by like 1/4". Wonder what has changed?
I have a bowtech, and yes, I know how to check timing.
But on the dual cams, do you know how that works? I just keep remembering back when I had my Bear Whitetail hunter, you wanted a longer distance between the top of your riser to the string than the bottom by like 1/4". Wonder what has changed?
What changed between then and now
: increase in release shooters as compared to finger shooters, newer bows shooting with the arrow closer to the center of the string instead of above center like you'll notice your old Bear is, advent of cams over wheels, and fiber cables over steel cables (cables can now be twisted to adjust cam timing); take your pick. I always start tuning a bow with even tiller.
04-28-2007, 07:15 AM
#13
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Baltimore Maryland USA
Posts: 1,385
RE: Limb Settings
What some are really comparing is 'apples to oranges'. Old technology to new technology. Cast risers to machined risers. Steel cable systems to synthetic cable systems.
The tolerances in bow designof today far exceeds what was available 20-30 years ago. Back then we had to adjust tiller moreso because of the variances in cast risers and limb composition.
Tiller tuning can still be done today for those who can and want to get the 'ultimate feel' out of their bow. Is it as necessary to the average shooter as it once was - NO.
Good shooting to all.
The tolerances in bow designof today far exceeds what was available 20-30 years ago. Back then we had to adjust tiller moreso because of the variances in cast risers and limb composition.
Tiller tuning can still be done today for those who can and want to get the 'ultimate feel' out of their bow. Is it as necessary to the average shooter as it once was - NO.
Good shooting to all.
04-30-2007, 12:30 PM
#14
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location:
Posts: 44
RE: Limb Settings
ORIGINAL: brucelanthier
Here it is:
Here it is:
ORIGINAL: Arthur P
If you really want to maximize your performance, forget about going over the top in poundage. Adjust your dynamic tiller instead. Some guys have a really complicated method for doing that. My way is quick and easy and works just fine - unless you're a world class shooter.
Assume your shooting position. Hold your bow straight out and place a sight pin on a target. Now, draw the bow straight back and watch what the pin does. It will likely pull off the target, either up or down. Usually up, for me.
If it pulls up, then your top limb is overpowering the bottom limb. Take a turn off the top bolt, add a turn to the bottom one, or both.
If it pulls down, then your bottom limb is overpowering the top limb. Take a turn off the bottom limb bolt, add a turn to the top, or both.
Repeat the process until you can draw the bow straight back and the pin will stay relatively close to the target. Now you've got the limbs working together. They're fire at the same speed, which will make the shot smoother and quieter, and very likely increase your arrow speed. They'll be under equal tension at full draw so the bow will be much steadier while holding on target. They'll return to brace at the same time, so recoil, vibration and noise will be reduced, often dramatically. The bow will be much easier to tune, also.
After I check to make sure my axle to axle length and brace height are in factory spec, and set an approximate nocking point, turning the tiller is the first adjustment I make to the bow when I'm doing a serious tune up.
If you really want to maximize your performance, forget about going over the top in poundage. Adjust your dynamic tiller instead. Some guys have a really complicated method for doing that. My way is quick and easy and works just fine - unless you're a world class shooter.
Assume your shooting position. Hold your bow straight out and place a sight pin on a target. Now, draw the bow straight back and watch what the pin does. It will likely pull off the target, either up or down. Usually up, for me.
If it pulls up, then your top limb is overpowering the bottom limb. Take a turn off the top bolt, add a turn to the bottom one, or both.
If it pulls down, then your bottom limb is overpowering the top limb. Take a turn off the bottom limb bolt, add a turn to the top, or both.
Repeat the process until you can draw the bow straight back and the pin will stay relatively close to the target. Now you've got the limbs working together. They're fire at the same speed, which will make the shot smoother and quieter, and very likely increase your arrow speed. They'll be under equal tension at full draw so the bow will be much steadier while holding on target. They'll return to brace at the same time, so recoil, vibration and noise will be reduced, often dramatically. The bow will be much easier to tune, also.
After I check to make sure my axle to axle length and brace height are in factory spec, and set an approximate nocking point, turning the tiller is the first adjustment I make to the bow when I'm doing a serious tune up.
04-30-2007, 12:49 PM
#15
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Southern MD
Posts: 2,520
RE: Limb Settings
Hopefully Arthur will clarify but I assume it applies to both. What it seems to me you are adjusting is the "poundage" (strength?) of each limb to achieve a balance, so that each limb is applying the same force. That way each limb will pull on the string evenly and then, ideally I guess, the bow would not tend to "jump" up or down but would tend to stay level when the arrow is released.
05-03-2007, 06:19 AM
#17
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Upstate New York
Posts: 2,435
RE: Limb Settings
What it seems to me you are adjusting is the "poundage" (strength?) of each limb to achieve a balance, so that each limb is applying the same force.
