Paul L Mohr

You posted while was posting. I am not saying your bow can not be turned out that many turns. I was saying that not all bows are the same and you need to know the correct specs before you mess with it.

I agree though, for target shooting being over spined shouldn't make a big difference, especially at close ranges like 20 yards. Now when you try to put a broad head on that baby or shoot long distances you may have trouble with an extremely stiff arrow. Lots of fletching and FOC can help with this sometimes.

Paul

davepjr71

Understandable why you have it turned down. It's better for him to be able to draw it properly to learn bad form or get hurt trying to draw a weight that may be too much for him.

If the shops say it's ok then it's ok. I was just giving my $.02 on what could be the issue with your particular bow on why the accuracy starts to go as you go under the recommended weight.

The moreI think about thisI have a second hypothesis.

The element is considered a parallel limb bow. I would think that with parallel limb bows the further you go out the closer you go to true parallel and the more cam timing comes into play. By going closer to parallel it would mean that your limbs are only doing so much work and the cams are doing most of it. If the timing is off on the cams then that will effect accuracy since the limbs do not have a chance to equalize the slight difference in cam timing.I could be way off on this since the parallel limb bows are new to me.

What you are doing with him is definitely the right way to teach and I think it's great to get a child involved in archery and the outdoors. I hope that he enjoys shooting it for many years. My hat is off to you.

davepjr71

Paul,

That's for sure about knowing the specs. Everyone and every thing I read says don't take my bow below 60 lbs.My face is ugly enough without wedging the cam of a bow in it.

Ido agree with you about when you put a broadhead and the range starts to increase.I think what helped me with my set-up was that I shot a 145 gr tip and light long shafts with fake feathers on them. Even with that I do not believe I had groups likethe field tips. Maybe soft ball at 35 yds.

WKP Todd

Shooting form and bow torque are probably the most mis-understood amoung archers. It's easy to blame the equipment!

CharlesK

Adjusting the limbs may also effect nock travel. And I am not accusing anyone but I do know that I have mistakenly tightened one limb down more than the other...

walks with a gimp

"Most overlooked aspect of bow tuning?"



WIND!! Don't tune where there is any

TFOX

Most overlooked is the nut behind the string.


Then I would consider it to bespine and thencentershot.

sr77

this was a very informative topic.

Shane

Black Frog

Ah yes, "the charts". Ever notice that those charts generally give you some poundage range, arrow length, andmaybe a cam style? Notice that they don't give you a draw length or power stroke?

That can be HUGE differences. A guy shooting a 29" draw at 65# might use 29" arrows, and another guy who shoots a 27" draw might like his arrows a tad longer and shoot that same 29" arrow at 65# with the same model bow. The "charts" say for that 65# and that arrow length it should work in both cases, but having two extra inches of powerstroke will affect the spine of the arrow dramatically.

The charts are just a basic starting point for finding the right combination of arrow spine, length, tip weight, bow poundage, etc... Nothing is written in stone and it may take plenty of tinker-time to find the magic combination.

davepjr71

That's whereI think a program can save you a ton of money and time. A program costs $25 min and can at least get you in the ball park better than a chart. Better than buying $100 arrows and finding out they aren't spined right for your draw length.

Or even one step beyond that is Easton's package that provides a draw weight/force curve gadget for the bow along with chrono to recommend arrow spine.