Idler wheel lean
 

How do you guys check for idler wheel lean?.........When I lay an arrow shaft along my idler wheel on my Partiot Single Cam at rest it does have some lean to it but at full draw it looks straight to me.

Should I put a twist in my cable to straighten it or leave it alone?

RE: Idler wheel lean
 

Aman.

If the bow is shooting good then leave it alone.

Cam lean and idler lean is the one thing I dont worry about if the bow is shooting good.

RE: Idler wheel lean
 

Two things I have never given much concern to, cam lean and level nock travel.

I think I did read somewhere though that cam lean was more critical at full draw. I beleive Tfox was talking about it in one of the tuning threads recently. Maybe the one about the laser tuner thingy. I will see if I can find it.

Paul

RE: Idler wheel lean
 

I couldn't find it, I would PM Len if he doesn't respond. He would probably be able to tell you for sure.

I would sure like to see here though so every one else could read it as well.

Paul

RE: Idler wheel lean
 

If you notice a corkscrew type of arrow flight your idler is probably not vertical at full draw. I'm not talking about fishtailing or porposing. It is exactly that a corkscrew type of flight. If your arrow flight looks good , you don't have a lean problem.
Make sure that your axle to axle measures the same on both sides of your bow. This will usually put the idler in the proper position. At full draw have someone stand behind you and look at the position of the idler. It should be striaght up and down. If not , twist the buss accordingly.

RE: Idler wheel lean
 

Amen! I never in my life worried about it and never even heard much of it until the last year or so. In my Muzzy rest DVD on setting up their rest, they say to measure for cam lean with the bow at rest before setting up the rest...................I didn't pay attention to that and my bow is shooting fine.

I don't think their is any way to have cam lean unless the limb axle holes are misdrilled, bad axles, bad bushing/bearing, or "loose" tolerances. Add to that, their is no way that the cables are going to come perfectly straight off the idler wheel when using a cable guard at full draw. I've never seen one yet!

RE: Idler wheel lean
 

Unless I was getting serving wear at the cam or it didn't want to tune I wouldn't worry about it. I don't see how any bow that uses a cable guard ( except maybe floating yokes like Hoyts ) doesn't have the same pressures on the cams. I think its something that gets blown out of proportion by brand bashers.

RE: Idler wheel lean
 

When changing out a string on my bows, one of the first things that I do is set the cam lean. It can change with a static yoke. Each side can be adjusted to bring the lean into proper specs. This can get a little tricky, but it must be checked throughout the adjusting process while bringing in both syncronization and timing.

I don't think that is has anything to do with brand bashing at all. I used to set my Mathews cam lean in the same manner as I set my hoyts.

When you put on new string and cables. How would you know that it is the exact length? If both sides of the yoke are the same length, a cable slide would make things even worse by pulling more on the far side of the axle .

Cam lean has everything to do with bow tuning. Bow tuning goes much further than just trying to set the arrow rest.

If unequal forces are acting upon the axle, it is twisting the limb throughout the cycle in a manner than can be detrimental to accuracy..

RE: Idler wheel lean
 

[quote]ORIGINAL: Elkcrazy8



If you ever read some of the fanboys attack bowtech for having cam lean you would think its a miracle every bowtech bow doesn't slice the strings right off at the cams after 5 shots.

RE: Idler wheel lean
 

it is a big deal, period.and you should not set your bows ata exactly the same on both sides at rest unless you have a shoot thru cable system. you should also not set the string coming off the bow exactly straight at full draw unless you have a shoot thru.

here's why its a problem - the lean does NOT stay the same throughout the draw cycle.if its starting out left to right - it may be going right to left at full draw, or even still left to right - but either more or less. this creates right to left string movement during the shot cycle. this is a big deal. how would you know about cleaning up horizontal misses unless you've set your bow up w/ a full draw tool and lasers? there is an article on cam lean at the spott hogg website. it will tell you how to set it properly, and explain all the theory behind it. if you want to learn to work on bows - get the full draw tool by apple, and either an apple or spott hogg laser system - understand the theory, and apply it. it works.

and i can guantee you when ausie gets his butt up here, and we go over the theory, he'll have every bow with him on the tool and lasers. heck, i may be bringing my stuff down there sooner than he thinks and get him all straightened out over a pig hunting week ;)