Jerry/Pa

AB, Thats the thing with this sport. You can take it to what ever level you wish. It's like any other sport or hobby. I tinker all the time. I shoot year round. Some guys are more obcessive then me. I can't imagine it but a few are. Some guys shoot for hunting only. Sept. threw Nov. and the bows back in it's case. I started taking archery seriously around 13-14 years ago and I'm still learning and experimenting. The more you shoot the more you'll find what works for you. Just have fun at it and don't make it a chore. Jerry

walks with a gimp

One thing to look for if you think you are torqueing the bow is to check the distance between the cable guard rod and the arrow shaft before draw and at full draw. They should be very close to the same distance.

AB Bow Hunter

thanks for the input, I guess I go a little over board on things that I get interested in. I just want any shooting errors to be mine & never the bows, or lack of tunning of the bow.

The 28.5" ACC 3-60's are correct? No way on the 3-49's???? I have 4 3-49's that I don't use for anything, but they are only 28", thet bare shaft closer together than the 3-60's. I just can't belive that I should be using 3-49's????

Good judgment comes from years of bad judgment.

Stickemup

AB,
I would think the 3-49's would be underspined for your setup. The 3-60's should be about right.

Bare shaft and paper tuning can be an exercise in patience to say the least. You need to have a really good understanding of the process to do it quickly. You also may need an experienced person watching you shoot to look for form errors. I personally combine the two processes by shooting a bare shaft through paper. Read the tear and adjust according to the easton tuning guide the same as you would a fletched arrow. The only difference is that you have to make very small rest and nock point adjustments with the bare shaft once you get anywhere near a bullet hole. Once you get a bullet hole at close range(5 ft), back up and repeat at 10 ft. You will only need to make very small adjustments at 10 ft. It has been my experience that once you get the bareshaft consistently punching bullet holes, they will impact just below your fletched arrows at all ranges.

I'm guessing that you need to move your rest to the right to make your barshafts impact with your fletched arrows. Torqueing the bow could also cause the same problem.

Good luck. Hope this helps.

Trushot_archer

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote<font size=1 face='Verdana, Arial, Helvetica' id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> I was drilling arrows consistently for the past few weeks. I thought my setup was perfect.<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face='Verdana, Arial, Helvetica' size=2 id=quote>

Micro WHAT? Super WHAT???<img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>If your smackin' nocks at 25+...It's TUNED! LOL! J/K, I can't quit fiddlin' either<img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle>

Trushot }}------>

JOE PA

I have experienced problems similar to the one you are describing. I went to bare shaft tuning when I had lots of trouble getting some of the early one cams to get a good paper tear. I have experienced the same thing you said about the bare shaft hitting to the left of the fletched shafts. One thing about bare shafts is that they seem to make small form errors into big arrow flight problems. A little torque in the grip seems to make the bare shafts fly real bad. Your bow hand must be relaxed and your release can't be torquing the string either. The last few bows that I have shot a good bit will put the bare shafts and fletched arrows together out to 20 yards (sometimes 25-30), but only if my form is at its best. Others have said it better than I, and have more experience to back it up, but I wonder how much you will be gaining by making yourself crazy about this. You said yourself that very recently, you were very confident about your shooting. That's the last thing you want to be messing with, don't you think? Second, is this a 3D bow, or mostly a hunting bow? If it is a hunting bow, and you are shooting it as well as you say, the most I might consider is shooting some same weight open blade broadheads to see how they group and shoot with your field points. If there is no problem there, then I don't know if it is really worth worrying about. The other thing that would concern me is how those expensive ACC's are hitting the target. If they are consistently hitting on an angle and not straight, then you could be bending them, and that would not only make it impossible to tell if you were bare shaft tuned, but also ruin some very good arrows too. If you insist on doing this, like some others have said, small adjustments make a big difference. Also I have found that carbon arrows can do strange things, like moving a rest to the right and having the bare shafts fly even more tail right. Doesn't make much sense, but I've had it happen on many bows, rests, arrow combinations. I would guess ACC arrows would be similar. Good luck with your problem. Oh Yeah, you might try taking the grip off of that bow and see if that helps the situation.

Avoid the inevitable until it is absolutely unavoidable!

AB Bow Hunter

Ok, ok, I will do my best to leave it alone. But I will still want to fiddle with it. Is it a hunting bow or 3D? I don’t know really. I only get to deer hunt maybe 3-5 times per year. I currently don’t hunt any other animals, so the rest of the year I range, back yard, & local 3-D night shooting just for the fun of it. 3D or hunting doesn’t really matter to me in the tuning area because I would tune my bows the same way, I guess I am very particular about these things, I want everything to be perfect.

Can someone explain why the 3-49 bare shaft & fletched arrows group tighter, than the 3-60s. I hope I am explaining this correctly. I shot 3 arrows @ 15 yards, aiming @ the center spot on my 9 spot yellow hammer target. The fletched arrows all hit the center spot. The bare shaft 3-60s all hit the left spot, approx 6” to the left. The bare shaft 3-49s about split the difference between the fletched arrows & the bare shaft 3-60s. That is what is leading me to the spine question of the 3-60 arrows, are they too stiff? NO WAY RIGHT????


Good judgment comes from years of bad judgment.

Jerry/Pa

AB,I can see you got the bug. Welcome to the club. Just so you know it's called obcessive complusive. LOL. These charts are just e reference point. Your arrow and bow combo will tell you what works best. If those 3-49's shoot best then thats what your set is telling you. Have you increased the point wt. on the 3-60s to see if they change your impact point? Try a 100 or 125 gr. tip and see what changes. Where is your B/S hitting in reference to elevation? Are they higher,lower or the same as your fletched arrows? There are other things that may be causing you flight problems but try this first,Jerry

AB Bow Hunter

The b/s 3-60s are a tad low, the b/s 3-49s are even with the fletched 3-60s on the hoz.

Good judgment comes from years of bad judgment.

Jerry/Pa

AB,When you b/s you can't compare 3-60 to 3-49. They have different mass wt. and spine. Apples to apples. 3-60 b/s to 3-60 fletched. 3-49 to 3-49. If your lower then and inch with the same arrow group then lower your nocks 1/16 at a time untill they group at the same elevation. What was the results from the point increase to 100 gr? Did that move your 3-60 right? JERRY