string loop question
 

How much does a string loop affect accuracy? With Itodays shorter ATA bows, is it best to use a string loop or does it make much difference at all? Is it better to use a metal string loop or one made of string? I've heard of the knots in the strings comeing undone and the archer getting popped in the face while attemping to draw his or her bow.

Chief

RE: string loop question
 

you are far better off using a loop with any bow especially bows with short A to A

RE: string loop question
 

I posted this a while back so I just copied it to here, If melted and tied correctly with the correct material, a string loop will not come loose. I think they are a must for shorter AtoA bows.

This is how I tie my nock sets as well as my string loop. I like a very small loop so it's a little harder to tie. If you like a slightly longer loop it will be easier.

Here you go:

I start out with a 4 3/4 in piece of loop material. I have found that Allen makes a great string loop material, it burns good, does not stretch and holds it's shape very well.

After I cut my loop to length I burn both ends into a nice big melted ball. I like to do this off of the bow as it gives me more control of the melt. If the flame is too close it will burn the end leaving a burnt charred like appearance. This is not good as it will make the end weak and could break. The end should melt but never catch fire.

Next I locate my nock position and tie in my first nock set. I tie the nock just like you would any knot but instead of a complete knot I only tie half, then wrap the serving material around the bow string and tie again. I repeat this till I have done it 5 times (you can do more of less) the last knot is a full square not to keep it in place. I cut the ends and ment into place.

I then slip on an arrow nock to give me my proper spacing and tie the second nock set. Once that is done I am ready to tie on the loop. This is a little difficult especially if you have big hands like me, but if I can do it anybody can.

I tie the first knot on the outside of my tied on nock and pull it as tight as I can. I do this by wrapping the loop material around a screwdriver and pull (like a "T" Handle), I then lay theuntied end down on the string over my second tied on nock. I tie the second knot. This one will be difficult because there is not alot of material to work with, you will end up pushing the melted ball through the knot. Take your time and don't get frustrated.

After it's tied you will have no loop to speak of but after you pull it some it will take shape. I use a pair of needle nose pliers to spread the loop and get it tight. After that I knock an arrow, attach my release and pull. I don't pull it all the way into the let off because I want as much weight to cinch the knot. Make sure you are pointing your bow in a safe direction.

It's important to make sure you tie your string loop in opposite directions so the melted balls are on opposite sides of the string.

When done it will look like this:






As you can see there is just enough room to put my release on once an arrow is nocked.

Good luck and remember it will take time to get that second knot tied on but this way you will be assured a nice small loop.


This is what it looks like with the release attached:

RE: string loop question
 

How will installing a string loop affect my draw length. Will I need to get that adjusted any at all?

RE: string loop question
 

Technically your draw lengthshould remain the same. If you use your ear as your anchor point your will have to adjust your anchor further back.

RE: string loop question
 

A lot of manufacturers are making short-barrelled releases specifically to regain lost draw length when using a loop, such as Scott's Wildcat I'll be ordering shortly.

RE: string loop question
 

Thats why I like an adjustable length release and a short loop, I just shortened my release and I am anchoring in about the same spot as always. It's a little longer, bout 1/4 but I settled into the new anchor easily. I think the adjustable release helped in this department.

RE: string loop question
 

when i put a loop on i didn't have to adjust my draw length

RE: string loop question
 

Shoot with a loop, you won't regret it. Especially w/ short AtoA length.

RE: string loop question
 

As everyone has already suggested, a rope loop is the best choice for todays shorter bow rigs. I also love my TRU Ball Short-N-Sweet release for shooting off my loop. The most forgiving and accurate set up I've ever used.

RE: string loop question
 

a loop won't affect how the front of the bow fits you at all.

RE: string loop question
 

Your draw length is your draw length. Unless you are still growing it remains the same and a loop doesn't change that. What it does is change your anchor point, moving back the same amount as the loop adds.

RE: string loop question
 

well it would help if you had on and would bring your groups together better if you do in my opinion. But if you are us to have no loop then try it and see how good it works for you.

RE: string loop question
 

One of his questions was should he use a metal loop. I have used them and had no problem, but alot of people dont like them.

Anyone want to comment on this ?

RE: string loop question
 

i would tend to shy away from the metal loops, i shoot with one and i liked it, but then i took it off and my bow, mysteriouly got much quieter. and also with that extra mass in the center of the string it will slow your string speed down as well as your fps, whether or not it is very noticable i dont know... if u want to try a metal loop i still have my old one. pm me if u are wantin to try it

RE: string loop question
 

I've found the metal loop was too noisy. If one could be made out of some sort of composite that has the lasting ability of metal would be the trick.

RE: string loop question
 

how about this question that came up this year with my set up -

Do you need or should you use a nock with the loop? My buddy who sets up my bow just ties one on and that worked fine for me. However, when I had some work done on the bow at Gander My, they use a nock (I believe below upper part of loop). That seems to work fine also. It was funny, my buddy said "why is the nock on there", then he changed it, then went to GM and they were going to change it (center shot off slightly), so I asked why they do it, and the GM person showed me the loop package and they recommend doing it. So I have a loop with the nock now, I think. (I really did have my loop done 3 times this year - was having tuning issues).

What do people think/do?

RE: string loop question
 

I don't believe a brass nock is needed. Look for a post on string loopsdone by "BigJ12", it should answer any and all questions about string loops. This is what I do and have no complaints.

RE: string loop question
 

One of the more appealing points of going to a loop is using a much-lighter tied-in nock set to keep the weight off the string... It's also a much cleaner look aesthetically, in my opinion...

What are people's thoughts on tying a bit longer nock set underneath the nock? I've seen several target shooters do this, as they believe it allows the release to exert slight downward pressure on the nock... I just got through watching GRIV's DVD, and he only ties one nock set beneath the arrow apparently.

RE: string loop question
 

Actually GRIV never used a loop until recently, he always used rope on the release with a single tied in nock point above the arrow. As of 2 weeks ago he did have one on his bowsetupbut he is currently using a tied in nock point above, and both ends of the loop tied under the arrow next to each other to create downward pressure.

Dave Cousins is an advocate of the tied in nock point under the arrow and the loop below that nock point, and then above the arrows nock.....no tied in nock point above the arrow just a string loop knot. He states this keeps the release better centered directly behind the nock.

Either of these methods will also help apply the slight downward pressure to the arrow to keep it planted on the rest. Right now I am using a tied in nock above and below, with a loop outside both of those. My bottom nock set is much longer than the top though to help apply more downward pressure to the arrow and to keep the release setup inline with the arrow nock. I may play with this a bit when my new gibblet string/cables get here though.

RE: string loop question
 

I think I will try useing a string loop and see how it goes. Thanks for the help everyone.

Chief

RE: string loop question
 

I don't recommend a metal loop, especially on a Hoyt tec riser. They will ding up the paint job on the tec riser when the string travels past its resting position.

RE: string loop question
 

I put a metal loop on mine last week and haven't noticed any more noise or change in the bow. I have to say this though, I am new to bows and bowhunting, so I don't think there's much trust to be had from my experience. As far as any long term changes, those'll come up down the road if they do, but the bow I have was older andused and was intended to be a beginner type thing so changing out strings, etc. doesn't matter to me. I plan on investing ina new bow in the future, but if this one works fine and I enjoy it I may not buy a new one.

RE: string loop question
 

String loops are greatly beneficial to accuracy. I for one have never heard of one coming off while drawing the bow. It's almost impossible with proper installation. Another benefit to them is that you don't wear out the string from attaching the release to it.