string loops
 

I thought I had seen this already mentioned somewhere but for the life of me, I can't find it.

Anyway, I'm in the process of setting up one of my bows to start practicing with a string loop and was just wondering, is there a "prefered" length of rope to start off with before tying? Just wondering what the majority of the string loop shooters cut there lengths at, especially if they buy there rope by the foot??

I have a couple that are 4 inch, is that good or maybe too long??


Also, I noticed that some put a brass nokset just above the bottom knot and some tie on below the bottom knot and above the top knot. Which would be better or do you suggest neither of these??

Thanks everyone..

RE: string loops
 

My loops are just shy of 6" before I start melting the ends into a big ball. I try to keep them as short as possible but that will depend on your set-up. There should not be a nockset inside of the knots, it causes pinch on the arrow and partially defeats the purpose of the loop. If you do put on a nockset, or extra serving (which I prefer) I would put it above the top knot.

RE: string loops
 

I wouldnt use a brass nock set but i do use tie on nocks between the loop ends. I tie four wraps on top and ten below the arrow nock. I also leave about a 1/32 inch of space between the arrow nock and the tie nocks so that it keeps them from pinching the arrow. Plus also by doing this it puts your release just under center of the arrow nock and this helps to keep a moderate downward pressure on the arrow rest to keep the arrow from lifting off rest if a side wind is blowing on your arrow.

RE: string loops
 

i start w/ a long piece, tie one knot, then tie the other - mark my cut off pt, cut the rope, untie it, burn it, tie and tighten it.

as to tied in nocking pts, i had that conversation w/ larry wisewhen he was shooting a hoyt wheelie. he had in 1 tied in pt inside the loop, but different than the way i had my single cam set up. i asked him about it basically, and he said if he was shooting a single cam he'd have it done the same way i did, that different cam systems will like the tied in pt either above or below the nock, depending. i don't remember which is which, so experiment and see which your bow likes.

RE: string loops
 

Okay, thanks for the replies.

Couple questions about all this. Archer 2, where you mention using tie on nocks, what do you use, just a normal thread or something? Also, where you say you use 4 wraps above the nock and 10 below, how do you tie them? I know how to do a serving but just wondering how you would fasten something with as little as 4 wraps.

Thanks again.

RE: string loops
 

Once you have shot several arrow with a loop you shouldn't need to serve or use a nock to keep it from moving. They aren't moving if you tied it right (trust me, I have tried moving them, and they don't).

My biggest problem is that they stretch and the loop becomes longer. Even when I tie them with just enough room to get my caliper jaw in, they still stretch. I replace my loop every so often when they get too long. Might have to look at a loop material that doesn't stretch as much.

RE: string loops
 

Serving thread tied with opposing half hitches; half hitch on one side then bring the tag ends around and tie another half hitch on the other side and keep doing this until you have as many as you want. As Grizzlyman says, they aren't really necessary, a properly tied loop isn't going to move.

There was a good "Tech Talk" session on string loops by Randy Ulmer on Bowhunter TV this week.

RE: string loops
 

Ijust bought some strings to do this also should I keep the upper Brass ringand use the lower rubber donut to support the lower knot or add an additional brass ring to support the lower knot???
Thanks

RE: string loops
 

No I would mark the string where the brass nock is then take it off and tie the top of the loop to where the brass nock is as for the "rubber donut":Djust slide it down the the serving near the cam or carefully cut it off.

RE: string loops
 

If you dont have the tie nocks inbetween the loops no matter how well tied you think you have your loops they will pull together and pinch your nocks. For the tie nock sets I just use .021 or .025 serving thread and do the half hitch knots. When you have done the last half hitch you make one more tie right on top of your last half hitch knot and that will lock it in , then you burn the ends off and and smooth it down while it is still warm and pliable.

RE: string loops
 

i use cut my string at 4 3/4 to 5 inches max i hvent had to use any nocks tie ins or extra knots to keep things in plce a properly tied knot will not slip up and down the string and if it is tied over nylon serving then it will spin after you tie the loop tighten by using the ends of a needle nose pliar between the loop and bow string this will lock it down tight

RE: string loops
 

I start out with a 4 3/4 in piece of loop material. I have found that Allen makes a great string loop material, it burns good, does not stretch and holds it's shape very well.

After I cut my loop to length I burn both ends into a nice big melted ball. I like to do this off of the bow as it gives me more control of the melt. If the flame is too close it will burn the end leaving a burnt charred like appearance. This is not good as it will make the end weak and could break. The end should melt but never catch fire.

Next I locate my nock position and tie in my first nock set. I tie the nock just like you would any knot but instead of a complete knot I only tie half, then wrap the serving material around the bow string and tie again. I repeat this till I have done it 5 times (you can do more of less) the last knot is a full square not to keep it in place. I cut the ends and ment into place.

I then slip on an arrow nock to give me my proper spacing and tie the second nock set. Once that is done I am ready to tie on the loop. This is a little difficult especially if you have big hands like me, but if I can do it anybody can.

I tie the first knot on the outside of my tied on nock and pull it as tight as I can. I do this by wrapping the loop material around a screwdriver and pull (like a "T" Handle), I then lay theuntied end down on the string over my second tied on nock. I tie the second knot. This one will be difficult because there is not alot of material to work with, you will end up pushing the melted ball through the knot. Take your time and don't get frustrated.

After it's tied you will have no loop to speak of but after you pull it some it will take shape. I use a pair of needle nose pliers to spread the loop and get it tight. After that I knock an arrow, attach my release and pull. I don't pull it all the way into the let off because I want as much weight to cinch the knot. Make sure you are pointing your bow in a safe direction.

It's important to make sure you tie your string loop in opposite directions so the melted balls are on opposite sides of the string.

When done it will look like this:





As you can see there is just enough room to put my release on once an arrow is nocked.

Good luck and remember it will take time to get that second knot tied on but this way you will be assured a nice small loop.

RE: string loops
 

This is what it looks like with the release attached:

RE: string loops
 

Good informative post BigJ12. Appreciate everyones replies as they were a big help.
Reading some other info regarding tying string loops, it stated that you should wax the loop string first, then once you have it tied into place, apply some more wax to the knots and then heat it up so that the wax melts into the knots. That this would help prevent the knots from sliding. I did it like this but I notice that the knot slides up and down the string quite easily. Is this from the wax or maybe I just don't have it tight enough yet?? Got it tied on no problem, and just like you said, the melted ends of the loop string are on opposite sides of the bow string. Also, I read that starting about 1/8th of an inch above center is a good place to start. So, I marked 1/8" above center and used that as a reference to where my knock would go. Is that about right??

I also picked up a brand new release, a Scotts Lil Goose, specifically for going to this string loop. :D

RE: string loops
 

I don't wax the loop until it's on and tight, If you tied in two nock sets then there is no where for the loop to go. That's the main reason why I do it like that. The other reason is when I draw, the release is directly behind my arrow. If you only have one nock then you will notice the release will not be behind the arrow but off set a little.

Starting 1/8 above center is fine, you will probably need to adjust your restwhen you tune so that may change. I use a Whisker Biscuit so I start with my nock level.