rest clearance
 

I just had my Trykon string changed to a Winner's Choice and had it laser tuned. I shoot a schaffer drop away, and I'm getting black marks on my vanes. I shoot cock feather down and even tried cock feather up, and I am still getting the black marks. I have them fletched with 4" vanes and a 2 percent off-set with a straight jig. Does anybody have any advice?

RE: rest clearance
 

Are you sure your not clipping your cables? Check the cables for wear in that vacinity.

RE: rest clearance
 

Yes I am sure. You can see the black mark from the prong of the rest on it.

RE: rest clearance
 

First off let's get it right. You did not have your bow laser tuned as there is no such thing. There is a process of using a laser (E-Z Eye) to set a rest for center shot. I assume this is what you mean.

That being the case, who set the timing on the rest? It's very possible the timing of when the rest raises up is not right. It should raise up in the last 1 1/2"-2" of the draw cycle; right before you come to full draw. If it's is coming up early then it obviously has to drop late, thus giving you fletch contact.

That's one scenerio. Another is that your nocking point is low making the arrow leave the bow nock low. Another is that your arrows are underspined and bend too much leaving the bow.

If you have been shooting these arrows before and only changed the rest then it's probably rest timing.

RE: rest clearance
 

Thanks for the info on the laser tuning. I am at the mercy of the guys in my pro-shop, and I am very aggravated with them right now. I know the arrows are the correct spine, I do them myself and do all the research. I went up to the pro-shop to have my string changed and my wife's V-Tech tuned. We went out to shoot yesterday, and the rest is hitting my vanes and her arrow shafts. She had big black lines on the shafts after shooting them. Needless to say, I am ticked off as it cost me $400 to have the work done. I am going up on Friday to speak to them, but I wanted to know if anybody knew what could be wrong. Is it possible they didn't set the timingon eitherrest correctly? Thanks again for your help Martin.

RE: rest clearance
 

I'd verify where you were having your clearance issues. I know I had clearance issues with my bow because of black marks on the vanes, and it was contact with the cables that was causing it. Your problem may be corrected simply by turning a nock slightly. You should do the foot powder thing or put lipstick on the vanes and see where it rubs off on the bow to make sure you know exactly where the clearance issue is.

RE: rest clearance
 

Good advice about the lipstick. Your wife should have plenty of that around.

Yes, there is a very good cahnce that the timing is not set right. It happens often. The rest should not raise up to it's highest level until about the last 1 1/2"-2" of the draw cycle. If it raises too early then it won't drop early enough at the shot. Simple fix, where the string attaches to the cable all you have to do is slide it up a little higher, testing as you go. Try doing it yourself as you will learn from it. Shops are places you go to do stuff you can't do for yourself or don't have the proper tools.

Maybe it's possible your arrows are underspined. If the arrow bends too much then you can get similar results. A little stiffer arrow never hurts.

Also possible the nocking point is too low. Again, if it is then just move it and try again.

RE: rest clearance
 

I would, like many others do it myself even if that means learning to do it for the first time. For some though, that's not a good option as they don't have the ability to do things of that nature for themselves (typically make things worse). You are in a different situation. You payed top dollar and with that comes a great deal of a$$ kissing. That guys lips would be chapped by the time I was done if only from all the explaining he would have to do to others. Take it back as often as you like and don't settle until it's right. Myself, if he doesn't make it right this time I would never go back nor let an opportunity go by to warn others to steer clear of the place. He bought and paid for that advertising if he doesn't make things right with some hefty yesand no sirs. He may in fact be worth what you paid him. Give him a chance. Should have been right the first time though at that price.

Strike one, the price. Striketwo, it's not right... ON 2 BOWS![:@]

Manystores"shops"have nothing to do with the word pro. I went into a well known one and asked about the weight of some fletchings. They were shocked I knew the weight of them. How can that be?Same shop didn't know the difference between a lock on stand and a climber. 3 times the clerk tried to sell me a lock on. 2 weeks before the opener of bow season they had no 1/4 fletcher peeps. Stop back in a couple weeks they said. They had a Hoyt "Rep" once. Big build up so i went to see what he had to say. Waited for the guy to stop shooting and then he rushed into the room and said "what do you want?" and then tried to sell me something of the shelf that I knew wasn't going to cut it.

Here's a funny one even at the time it was happening. Went into one and asked the guy how much X vane weighed. He started to work on it. Five minutes later he got up off the floor, yea he moved the operation to the floor,:DLOL, and proclaimed it weighed 4.5 grns. It was a 4" vane. Never have seen one less than 8. The one he had was 11. Can't say the guy didn't work hard at it. I do believe he even broke a sweat.:D

RE: rest clearance
 

nodog,

I agree with you to a point about getting proper service, something that has been paid for. The reason I suggest trying to adjust things is "how else we gonna learn"?

You seem to have been around a while. How did you learn to do thinggs on your bow? Me, I just tear them apart, throw the pieces on a pile, and then reassemble the thing. Learing to make adjustments and such has the advantage of gaining an understanding of what's happening and what a problem might be if things go awry. Afterall, if we just took the bow back to the shop every time something changes there's be no market for bow-squares, allen wrenches, and all the other gizmo's and tools.

By the way, the only 4" vane that I've seen less than 8 grains is the Duavane LP. Mine weigh in at just about 6.5 grains +/- .1 grains.

I get your meaning. There are pro-shops and there are "Pro" shops. How many have you ever been in where a Pro actually worked there? Know what I mean?

RE: rest clearance
 

small world... I started a thread last night with exact same problem with exact same rest. After the tips I measured my draw cord results and my rest was fully up 3.5's before full draw. I know my black marks are teh rest prongs because I have black implants on them and they are getting torn up. I will be checking my knock point also... it may be low.

http://www.huntingnet.com/forum/tm.aspx?m=1673399

RE: rest clearance
 

Right there with you BG. He should learn to do it himself. Ive learn pretty much the same way, the hard way.:D

What 4" vane is it that ways 6.5? You were right about the duravane. I thought they were the lightest 4". The guy I talked about tried weighing the vane with a balance used in the gun section of the store.

Don't know if you've noticed it, but when youhit fast reply it say's you are responding to X post. It's always the last person who responded.I didn't mean for my comments to be directed at you, just putting in my 2 cents is all. This should say I'm responding to wicchunter. You can tell I'm not.

RE: rest clearance
 

nodog,

The lightest 4" I've checked is the Duravane Low Profile at 6.5 grains. Thought I told you that. That's one of the reasons I went back to vanes for mu hunting arrows. Being a speed freak all these years and shooting feathers I just couldn't go back to vanes till I tried these. I know the latest rage these days are the Blazers, but I shoot a Martin with the X system and need to stay narrow for cable clearance. I could put the longer axles in but there really is no need at this point. I'm not going to quibble about the 5 grain difference between 3 Blazers and 3 Duravanes.

I know it may sound arrogant, but I am my own handyman. With few exceptions I'm the only one who works on my stuff (anything). On bows I do 100%. I like to get a new one and set it up rough to chrono it for curiosity. Then I tear the whole thing down and throw it on a pile in the floor. After I micrometer every little thing I put it back together and "go to work" on it. That's how I've learned what I have after shooting these stupid wheel bows for almost 33 years. And I made my share of mistakes during that time. And with technology the learning is never done.

The one thing that has helped, which yougsters should learn, is to take digital pics of the bow before any disassembly. Especially the cabling. I had a hard time with this on some single cam bows till I learned to draw pictures. Hey, live and learn.

I like an old adage. "The person who never made a mistake just never tried anything".

RE: rest clearance
 

I'll have to check those low profile ones out. Wanted something a little tougher for this year. The duravane I used last year got shredded going through some thick briar's. Will be going through the same this year but shouldn't get as caught up as last year. It was our first year of a planed 4 year hunt on some public ground. We are more familiar with the place now. I'm trying the savage vane out now andI like it. They are around 9 whichI was surprised at. I don't care for the higher profiles either for the same reasons.

I know you've been around archery for some time and have experimented with quit a bit of it. One of the ways I've learned is from reading your posts. The restI use was based on your recommendations.

Good advise about taking pics. I've used a video camera as well.