MGH_PA

Funny you should say that, as I'm not too sure I want to keep a pendulum site. It does work great in the stand (although I've only taken one buck with it on), but I like to shoot a lot on the ground, and the one pin setup is kind of a pain. What sight are you using?

jerseyhunter

I have the savage QC Ranger pendulum.

In the treestand you set the yardage at 20 yds and it works as a pendulum. On the ground you just set it at the yardage your shooting at from 20 - 70 yds in 1 yard increments. It raises and lowers the pin, it works on the arrows speed. You can buy the Quick Click and use your site with it.

Paul L Mohr

Those arrows would have to be around 25-26 inches to spine right most likely. Changing tip weights will not do much for you, they are just too weak to begin with.

2413's or 2315's at 29 inches would work better for you. And they would actually be a bit lighter.

Paul

JOE PA

Please let me ask a few questions.

Are the 2117s 30" long?
Are they fletched with plastic vanes?
Are the plastic vanes fletched with an offset or helical, or are they pretty straight?
How old are the arrows, and how much have they been shot?

I agree that the 2117 is underspined for a #68 bow, even a smooth draw bow like the Buckmaster. One free way to see if that is the problem is to drop your draw weight back to #60, and see if they shoot any better. They are also too heavy an arrow to shoot 75 gr. broadheads, especially if you are using plastic vanes. FOC would be off the scale light. That bow is much like the Jennings Speedstar that I had about 10 years ago. It has a big, fat, torquey grip on it. Try taking the grip off, and shoot off the bare riser to see if that helps. I can tell you that at #70 with the wood grip on, my Speedstar put broadheads 3" low and left of field pts. At #60, with the grip removed, it stacked field pts, fletched broadheads, and bare shaft arrows into a 1" spot at 20 yards. If this bow was tuned well, and shooting well in the past, what changes were made to it? Those changes made are likely to be at least part of the problem. Then, you have the additional potential problems of aluminum arrows bending, broadheads not being aligned with the arrow, not enough fletching/offset to control the broadhead, etc.

MGH_PA

The arrows are ~29.5" from tip (not including broadhead) to the nock insert. The Vanes are 4" plastic fletched straight. These arrows are actually three years old but have not been shot much at all. I leave some arrows out of the shooting bunch just for the broadheads. So I guess I should go with a stiffer spine then, or try knocking the weight down first?

BGfisher

Matt,

I will only add, since you posted it now, that you should never shoot stright fletch with broadheads, even with properly spined arrows. You should shoot helical or straight-offset to spin the arrows.

ijimmy

A 2117 30inches long shot at 60 lbs is still seriously underspined , you would have to cut them to 28 inches to be in the ballpark , You need stiffer arrows period . I boubt your bow goes down to 55 lbs safely , that would be about the only other option .

Matt in IL

I think that's a matter of opinion...

slee

Why not just buy some carbon arrows that are properly spined, anduse the 100gr BHs you have. Then, you'll have arrows when you buy your new setup in the winter. Your draw length isn't going to change, and you'll have the right arrows for this season.

Paul L Mohr

Well it doesn't matter what type of arrows you get, but yes I would suggest getting different arrows that closer match the spine of your set up.

If you want to stick with aluminums that is fine, which is I why I suggested the correct arrows for aluminum arrows. But simular spined carbon arrows will work as well.

Keep in mind when you change arrows you will have to re tune your bow because of differences in diameter and what not.

Paul