HuntingEd

How many of you bareshaft tune? I normally just paper tune buy now i have the ability to bareshaft tune... Any tips? and is this the best place to start?

Kraton

It was the only way I got my arrows and bow shooting good and the same as my broad heads.

I like it better than paper tuning cause I do not need the set up. Just a couple of unfletched arrows along with the rest of your good arrows.

Plenty of info out there...
http://www.martinarchery.com/o_manual/2004manual/finetune.html


http://handbook.jousiammuntaseura-arcus.com/nuoliviritys.htm


http://www.bmg-archery.com/tuning.htm

BobCo19-65

Ihave used this methodwith my traditional gear (it's probably the most common method for tuning traditional gear), but never really used it much for compounds.

AllenRead

Try this link:http://www.georgedixon.net/

Look under "Tips".

I think that George is tuning without fletching which is different than the bare shaft planing test that works well for thefinger shooters.

The consensus seems to be that the bare shaft planing test is not very useful for a release shooter since we don't have as much side to side flex in the arrow as a finger shooter.

I would love to hear more opinions on this from the more experienced tuners here.

Thanks,
Allen

Bulzeye

Bareshaft tuning is the way to go, and it works for all setups, fingers or otherwise. It does indeed show vertical displacement for release shooters as well as horizontal for finger guys like me.

I first heard of it here years ago, and I've found that using it to achieve superior arrow flight quality builds an enormous amount of confidence in the shooter and shrinks shot groups very nicely.

The reason I think so highly of it is its simplicity:
1. You shoot some arrows with fletching and some without fletching.
2. Compare impact points between the two types.
3. Make adjustments per instructions.
4. Repeat until both types of arrows hit the same spot.

By tuning to this level, you insure that you are not relying on your fletching to get the arrow to a specific spot. The arrow is reacting naturally and the fletching isn't fighting it, just providing stability, not steering.

This is why it works:

-The bare shafts (unfletched) willreact naturallyto the forces being applied to them by the bow and shooter, and will go where they are meant to go.
-The fletching on the other shafts will attempt to compensate for any mismatch between those forces and the arrow's spine (stiffness).
-If there is a mismatch, even atiny one, there will be a difference in point of impact between the two types. Sometimes they will hit FEET apart at 20 or 30 yards, so start in close until you get the picture of what they are doing.

Paper can be a decent rough gauge, but to really get things right you must take it to the next level.
Many people who bareshaft tune don't even bother with paper any more since paper can't get you even close to bareshaft tuned. It's faster to just take it to the range. The only rub is that you need some real distance to do it.

I bareshaft tune, and then broadhead tune out to 40, and then limit hunting shots to 30. It makes 20 yard shots seem like cake.

HuntingEd

Thanks all for the advise, i plan on bare tuning this evening... Ive been tinkering w/ my bow alot already this summer and so far she's shooting amazing! the season is just a little over 2 months away for me!

bigcountry

I only use bareshaft starting out. I found out its really not fine tuning. Its good for a quick check for spine. After that, paper is next. But again I find its not fine tuning. After that, I broadhead tune to finish up, and do this up to 30 yards.

With compounds, IMO, its not needed to bareshaft because you can lower or raise poundage for tuning to adjust for spine. Thats the reason for a 60-70lb bow, I start at 65lbs and use that to adjust for spine. Some guys absolutely demand starting at 70lbs, and not moving. Thats when it might help out compound shooters, to cut thier arrows for the most dynamic spine.

onestab

HuntingEd---Read the "fine tuning" section of this excerpt from Bobby Worthington's book...

http://www.bowhunting.net/artman/publish/BowhuntingTrophyWhiteChap1.shtml

It's the best explanation I've read on the importance of bare shaft tuning and why paper tuning can be deceiving.

Paul L Mohr

I bare shaft tune, but not really to check for spine. I tend to shoot overly stiff to begin with. I use it to get my rest set the way I want it to begin with. I shoot until I can get bare shaft arrows to group with my fletched arrows out to 30 or 40 yards then call it good.

The only thing I concern myself with is where the arrow impacts in regards to the fletched arrows. I don't worry about how it looks in the target or how it flew on the way there. only where it impacts and how they group. I have even paper tuned with bare shafts before. If you want something to make you pull your hair out go ahead and give it a try.

I don't paper tune at all any more because I discovered there are to many ways to trick it or make a tear bad that doesn't involve rest settings or arrow spine. It is all about form, if you have bad form you will never be able to paper tune. And if you have really good form paper tuning is of little use to you. I can make arrows that are severely under spined get bullet holes, so I guess it isn't telling me much. I can also get underspined arrows to group well when bare shaft tuning as well. Target arrows are pretty darn forgiving if you have half way decent form and adequate fletching.

If you are going to hunt nothing replaces broad head tuning. Nothing will tell you what an arrow will do with a broad head on it until you actually put one on it. Target tips are just too forgiving. I don't try and make my target arrows group with my broad head either. Sometimes they are right on, and usually they are pretty close, but not perfect. I do way more target type shooting than I do hunting, so I tune my bows for this. Normally to get my fixed blades to hit exactly with my target arrows I have to de-tune my bow slightly, which I don't want to do.

If I can get bare shafts to group great at 40 yards and beyond (most I have done is 60) and my fixed blades don't hit in the exact same spot I don't fret over it. I think my arrows are flying pretty straight to begin with. I just move the sights slighty or take it into acount when I'm hunting and aim differently. I'm more concerned with how they group then where they hit compared to my target arrows. I used to be the other way around though and very anal about it. I noticed that if I tuned my bow to get fixed blades hitting right with my field points my groups increased slightly. In the end I decided I didn't want that.

And when I say they don't hit with my target arrows I am only talking an inch or two, not 5 or 6 inches. Getting fixed blades and target arrows to group together has a lot do with spine and your arrows than it does tuning. I know my arrows are a bit stiff to begin with, and I want them that way, so I live with it.

And when I bare shaft tune I don't actually shoot a bare shaft. I strip the fletchings down to the base. This way you still retain the weight of the fletching since most of the weight of a fletching is in the base and glue.

That's how I do it anyway. Wright or wrong, it works for me.

Paul

Paul L Mohr

I read that article and I agree with most of it. However I don't agree that bare shaft tuning will ensure your fixed blades will hit with your target arrows. They will if you have well spined arrows, but if not they may not. If you paper tune or bare shaft tune and your arrows are grouping well and on center. Then you put a fixed blade head on and they shoot off center but group well chances are your spine is off a bit. You can either mess with your arrows, change your draw weight, or change your rest setting again. However if you are going to do this why did you bother paper tuning or bare shaft tuning in the first place? You should have just went right to broad head tuning. Or you can live with it and be assured your arrows are still leaving the bow as well as they can.

And OH MY GOD does that kid have crappy form! Why would you use that picture in an archery article talking about accuracy? He doesn't need to learn to tune, he needs some basic coaching on shooting in my opinion.

Paul