sight vs rest vs knocks
 

I just brought home my 1st Wisker Biscuit (Deluxe Qs), I love the idea of not worrying about the arrow falling out of the rest anymore.

My bow is a ProLine Sniper, its a small bow that I bought because it felt good, and allows for my freakishly short draw length (I'm 5'10" and only draw 26").

Heres my problem, I installed theWB and quickly noticed that it was too low, and the arrow pointed down, (not perpendicular to the string). I maxed out the vertical adjustment and it wasn't enough, so I started adjusting my sights. I can probably use the remaining adjustment on my sights to get back on target, but I'm worried that I'll be losing speed/energy shooting this way.

Am I right, should the arrow be perpindicular to the string when sitting in the rest and the bow not drawn (single cam bow)?
Would splitting the distance between axels tell me where the knocks should be on the string?
If I were to max out my sights and get back on target, then have a friend take a picture of me at full draw, would that help you guys help me?

I'd really appreciate any help I can get, I'm sure I can get back on paper, but I'd like to use all my bows potential.

RE: sight vs rest vs knocks
 

tschaef,
You may get alot of grief for your W.B , but My Drop Tine rules . Had you previously shot this bow?? If so use that knocking point and line up rest so arrow is horizontal from knock to arrow tip. If the rest cant be level on your bow through up a pic so we can see .
1)nock arrow
2)tighten rest so arrow is 90 degrees , from string to arrow.
3) fine tune.
I amjust a novice at this bow stuff , just trying to help if I can;) . Dont give up w/ the bisquit , also try 2 in Blazer vanes and a dab of super glue on the front tip of your fletching.

RE: sight vs rest vs knocks
 

Thats my problem Paka, I can't get the arrow horizontal using the WB adjustments alone, I need to move my knocks, but don't want to because I've shot the bow as it is for a few years now.
I'll get some pics up when I get back from work.

RE: sight vs rest vs knocks
 

If you dont have your arrow at a 90 to the string you'll be shooting poor groups... especially if you shoot fixed blade broadheads. Your arrow will "straighten" itself out using the fletching, the only problem is it will "dolphin" through the air until it stabilizes... which wont happen until the arrow slows down enough (usually at a long range). Changing your sights to match the arrrow is not the right way to do it. I had a similar problem w/ my WB last year... I had to move my nocking point down, which is what you need to do.... If you dont want to i suggest getting a new rest... I switched from the WB to a QAD ultrarest... It wasa great improvement, my groups are better, and its easier to tune. You get the same total containment as the WB plus a drop away feature. I had to adjust my nocking pt when i switched rests... Used a bow square to get it at a 90, then paper tuned... It was only after my bow was properly tuned that i adjusted my sights.

Also, your proshop might have some type of spacer it could put on the riser that would allow you to increase the vertical adjustment of the WB.

RE: sight vs rest vs knocks
 

is the arrow even with the holes the rest is screwed into on the riser? these are called the berger button holes. i'm guessing that your nock position is too high.

RE: sight vs rest vs knocks
 

As gibblet has said your arrow should be even with the berger button , or rest screw , as far as perpendicular , most have their nock 1/8th to 1/4 of an inch high . Some have found their particular setups with the WB rest like a perpindicular nock , In my experiance this has been with dual and hybred camed bows . Most single cam bows like a slightly high nock point 1/8 to 1/4 inch . This is hardly noticable by the eye , if you arrow looks like its pointing down Id say you have a nocking point problem , which is easy to fix , just move it down some . The rest should be adjusted so the arrow is even with the screws that hold it .

RE: sight vs rest vs knocks
 

Alright you pros, I just got home with my new bow square, knocking pliers, and knocks, so keep an eye on this thread because questions will come.

Heres the 1st question; the instructions on the square tell me how to determine my bows tiller length, but it doesn't tell me why this distance is important. Once I know my tiller, what do I use it for?

Another; how do I get the old knocks off without hurting the string?

RE: sight vs rest vs knocks
 

once you know your tiller, you create a garden with it.


ok, seriously, i guess an even tiller is a good place to start. the tiller measurement on each limb should be the same - that's what you're trying to find out. it would be good to set them equalbefore fixing your nocking situation because when you change your tiller - if you need to - it will change your nocking pt.

RE: sight vs rest vs knocks
 

Thanks gibblet, I'm glad that even is what I want because when I measured I found that I had no tiller (equal distances from handle/limb transitions to the string).
I got the old knocks off with a pair of side cutters (probably not the best idea, but it worked).
When I lined the square up I was surprised to see how close the originals were, I only had to lower them about 1/4".

Now to paper tune; how far away from the paper? Do you paper tune at different distances or just one?

I'm waiting for a DVD on bow tuning in the mail, but you guys know how it is, when you spend $ on a new toy you want to play with it right away :)

RE: sight vs rest vs knocks
 

I paper tune at about 10-15 ft.. then farther once i get that one straight... goto easton's website they have a tuning guide in their downloads section that tells you a lot of good details...

RE: sight vs rest vs knocks
 

Invest in a set of knock pliers..< than $10

RE: sight vs rest vs knocks
 

thanks turtleshell, but I have some that I bought today. I used them to put the new ones on, but couldn't figure out how to use them to get the old knocks off, is there a trick to it?

RE: sight vs rest vs knocks
 

typically in the front half of the pliers there is a tooth-like projection... place the edge of the tooth at the seam of the nock and squeeze... it should separate the nock for ya...

RE: sight vs rest vs knocks
 

I guess Ibought the cheapies, my "Bear Knocking Pliers" don't have that feature.

RE: sight vs rest vs knocks
 

All the advice you have gotten so far has been good. The nocking pt. on the string is obviously too high. I am suspicious about how it got that high though. Was your other rest set well above the rest mounting holes? Did this just happen recently? How old is your string, and do you fasten your release directly to the string? Sorry for so many questions, but I once had a nocking point that was moving up and needed to retune twice. When I took the center serving off the string, several strands of the string had broken due to the pressure of my release. The string was stretching badly, and was close to breaking, but there was no way to tell with the serving still on. Wouldn't want you to get the bow all retuned, then have your string break on you.[:@]

RE: sight vs rest vs knocks
 

Thanks for the concern Joe, my other rest (Quicktune 800) was set at the "high" setting, and if I look at it I guess the tips of the rest would have been at the top of the berger button holes. This is my 1st bow, I guess the string is about 4yrs old, but I haven't shot alot untill the last 2yrs, and I wax it often. I do clip my release directly to the string. I haven't noticed a trend of having to adjust my sights in one direction, but I probably wouldn't have noticed that because I'm always changing the distances that my pins are set for. When I removed my upper knocks (2 small ones) everything looked fine, but the serving did look compressed beneath the lower knock (1 large one).
So, how dangerous is a string breaking at full draw, both to myself and my bow? I guess I could measure from axle to axle, shot a few sessions, then measure again to see if it is stretching.

RE: sight vs rest vs knocks
 

you don't want to know about a string breaking at full draw.

RE: sight vs rest vs knocks
 

So if I am reading this correctly, you have shot "a lot" for the last 2 years, and shoot directly off the string with a release. If it were me, I'd definitely get a new string before going any further, but that's me. From what I see on here, you probably can't get a better string than those made by your fellow Canadian gibblet. You might want to contact him for advice.

BTW, if you shoot with full body armor and a helmet with a strong face shield, you should be fine if a string lets go at full draw.[8D] If you don't take these precautions, then like gibblet said, you don't want a string to break at full draw, and neither does your bow.;)

RE: sight vs rest vs knocks
 

Time to replace the string , 4 years is old . Id do that and then start the tuneing process , do your cabels allso

RE: sight vs rest vs knocks
 

i'm honored that you thought i was a canadien, but i'm a north carolinian -as a matter of fact - a hillbilly one.

RE: sight vs rest vs knocks
 

Sorry gibblet. I obviously got that misconstrued! Still though, where would he get a better set of strings?:D

RE: sight vs rest vs knocks
 

Alright, my mother didn't raise no fool, if I need new strings there is no getting around it.

gibblet, I have read the posts about your strings, and they look great, but
I'm more a functional kind of guy, I don't worry about the aestetics very much, are costum strings for the guy that wants his bow to look good, or are there other advantages? Speed isgreat, but I would put just as much importance on durability and user friendliness, are your strings for me?
How about cables, do you make them also?
Finally, if I ordered from you, could I get them with enough time left to break them in and tune my bow before mid October?

Heres what I have:
ProLine Sniper
50-60#
75% let-off
86 1/8" string
25.5-30" draw length set to 26"