Mathews Switchback XT arrow rests...problems...??
#1
This post is for a friend of mine. He has a switchback XT and would like to know what a good arrow rest for that particular bow is. Currently, he has the Mathews arrow rest and doesn't like it at all! He is having problems with vanes hitting the rest and affecting his shot. He has even taken it to the local bow shop and they can't figure out what the problem is either. He wanted to get everyones opinion before going and spend a bunch more money on another arrow rest. Your input would be greatly appreciated!
#2
I'm assuming you're referring to the HD convertible rest? Has he tried using it as a fallaway? I've heard nothing but good reports from that rest when used in that manner.
#3
ORIGINAL: Greg / MO
I'm assuming you're referring to the HD convertible rest? Has he tried using it as a fallaway? I've heard nothing but good reports from that rest when used in that manner.
I'm assuming you're referring to the HD convertible rest? Has he tried using it as a fallaway? I've heard nothing but good reports from that rest when used in that manner.
#4
Where is his nock point and where on the rest is he contacting. How has he determined if there is actual contact? I would cover the fletched end of the arrow in gold bond foot powder and shoot it to see where the contact really is. How high is the nock point on the string from center? Also, the rest should not reach peak height until the last 1" or so of the draw cycle. These things are critical of any arrow rest.
#5
ORIGINAL: Rick James
Where is his nock point and where on the rest is he contacting. How has he determined if there is actual contact? I would cover the fletched end of the arrow in gold bond foot powder and shoot it to see where the contact really is. How high is the nock point on the string from center? Also, the rest should not reach peak height until the last 1" or so of the draw cycle. These things are critical of any arrow rest.
Where is his nock point and where on the rest is he contacting. How has he determined if there is actual contact? I would cover the fletched end of the arrow in gold bond foot powder and shoot it to see where the contact really is. How high is the nock point on the string from center? Also, the rest should not reach peak height until the last 1" or so of the draw cycle. These things are critical of any arrow rest.
#6
ORIGINAL: r33h
We have determined that there is actual contact because he uses green fletchings and the fletching is turning the forks on his drop away green from brushing past. As to how high the nock point is on the string from center...I am not sure. Could you explain a little more on what you mean by this question? If I am thinking correctly on this question, I believe you are wanting to make sure that the arrow is ninty degrees perpendicular to the string when nocked and when the arrow is resting on the arrow rest in the "up" position...is this a correct take on the question? If so, I am pretty sure that the arrow is square to the string (I will need to double check though).
We have determined that there is actual contact because he uses green fletchings and the fletching is turning the forks on his drop away green from brushing past. As to how high the nock point is on the string from center...I am not sure. Could you explain a little more on what you mean by this question? If I am thinking correctly on this question, I believe you are wanting to make sure that the arrow is ninty degrees perpendicular to the string when nocked and when the arrow is resting on the arrow rest in the "up" position...is this a correct take on the question? If so, I am pretty sure that the arrow is square to the string (I will need to double check though).
#7
ORIGINAL: Rick James
I would actually have that nock about 1/8-1/4" above being level. Otherwise the nock travel throughout the draw/release cycle may slam the arrow down and into the rest. This is important on single cam bows, you get more nock travel throughout the cycle than in a properly timed dual, or a binary cam.
ORIGINAL: r33h
We have determined that there is actual contact because he uses green fletchings and the fletching is turning the forks on his drop away green from brushing past. As to how high the nock point is on the string from center...I am not sure. Could you explain a little more on what you mean by this question? If I am thinking correctly on this question, I believe you are wanting to make sure that the arrow is ninty degrees perpendicular to the string when nocked and when the arrow is resting on the arrow rest in the "up" position...is this a correct take on the question? If so, I am pretty sure that the arrow is square to the string (I will need to double check though).
We have determined that there is actual contact because he uses green fletchings and the fletching is turning the forks on his drop away green from brushing past. As to how high the nock point is on the string from center...I am not sure. Could you explain a little more on what you mean by this question? If I am thinking correctly on this question, I believe you are wanting to make sure that the arrow is ninty degrees perpendicular to the string when nocked and when the arrow is resting on the arrow rest in the "up" position...is this a correct take on the question? If so, I am pretty sure that the arrow is square to the string (I will need to double check though).
#8
Yep, of course Rick being a Mathews guru these days has got you dialed in... 
If I'm not mistaken -- and correct me if I'm wrong, Rick -- doesn't Mathews recommend the nocking point on their bows to start 3/16" high? Which, of course, is exactly in between your suggestion...
Before I starting shooting BowTechs, I had that exact rest on my XT, and it shot absolute bullet holes.

If I'm not mistaken -- and correct me if I'm wrong, Rick -- doesn't Mathews recommend the nocking point on their bows to start 3/16" high? Which, of course, is exactly in between your suggestion...
Before I starting shooting BowTechs, I had that exact rest on my XT, and it shot absolute bullet holes.
#9
I informed my friend about the nocking point being elevated slightly above level and from what he said on the phone, his nocking position was level...if not even a little lower. This could very well be the problem! He said he would try to shot it as soon as possible to see if that helped fix the problem. If you can think of anything else that could be the cause, please suggest away! I do appreciate the suggestions / help and I know my friend is greatly appreciative as well! Thanks Rick James and Greg / MO for your time!


