RE: Stablizers out front?
 

Matt I agree with a lot you have to say. But in the example above I do not necessarily argree in all circumstances. Shooting on the range in a comfort zone is one thing. Yes, in the perfect hunting situation where your adreneline is not going, your heart is not racing, and you have the time to settle in and aim at a non-moving target, I would agree with you. But, many hunting situations do not lend themselves to that favorable situation and things often happen quickly or unplanned. The guy who canaccurately get the shot off quickly(without a long settling in on the target period) with the rightequipment to do so will usually be the one who is better off IMO. This is in general of course.

RE: Stablizers out front?
 

I don't compete so I can give a "hunter only" perspective to this. Iuse a4in Doinker stabilizer. For me it's more of a dampner than stabilizer. I however have no problem shooting 2-3in groups out to 40yds. At 20yds I need to shoot spots or I will break nocks and tear vanes and this is with what most would call an "entry level" or "cheap" bow (Browning Rage one).

Now I am not an expert shot by no means so I don't think it's too much to expect from any set up!

My point? If you want to hang contraptions offyour bow and make it look like a satellite that's fine but I don't think it's necessary........practice, practice, practice.

I agree with BobCo19-65 on this. I think you are comparing apples to oranges here. Even my basic practice sessions are nothing like the real thing. I also agree and think some equipment ie: extra long stabilizers etc.. are geared more for the comp. shooter because that type of gear is specific forthat type ofshooting and like BobCo19-65 said does not lend itself well to quick off hand shooting situations.

RE: Stablizers out front?
 

Many of you would have enjoyed my last seminar where I discussed the differences between hunting and tournament situations.;)

I laid out 10 basic reasons why they were different. My notes are at the shop, so I'll try to recall most of them as follows:
1) Tuning requirements
2) Targets stationary verses moving
3) Different lighting
4) Different clothing
5) Weather conditions
6) Obstacles
7) Time to get the shot off
8) Footing and elevation/treestands
9) Poundage sometimes required
10) Broadheads verses field points

This subject was discussed for about an hour. Think about each one of the above and try to draw your own conclusions.;)

Even within each of the two basic disciplines there are variations abundant.

RE: Stablizers out front?
 

Guess who changed my ways of thinking about long stabilizers??:D:D:D

Once he showed me my bow balanced, I never looked back.

RE: Stablizers out front?
 

Keep in mind that bigcountry's stabilizer is attached to the back of his riser and not to the front. With many bows having highly reflexed risers to gain speed, it's necessary to move the weight from the front to the back to 'balance' the bow both staticly and dynamically.

Many of the bows with very long stabilizers have deflex risers. When longer stabilizers are desired with a reflex riser, that's when the use of V-bars becomes necessary to maintain proper balance.

RE: Stablizers out front?
 

I would have to say "tuning" your huntingbow or competition bow to be as forgiving as possible is what we should allbe striving to achieve!And in most case`s a longer heavier stabilizer is more forgiving for most folks.Getting the mass weight of the stabilizer "out" away from the bow makes the bow more forgiving for most of us.
Seldom will you be able to take the shot under the perfect conditions most of us practice under!
Shooting in front of your peers,under the pressure of competition isas close to simulating a hunting situation as you can get!
Practice,practice,practice.....a goodarcher/hunter goes into auto-pilot when its time to take the shot.....whether its a shot at the 11 ring or a shot at a trophy buck!JMHO
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