Tuning question (new bow break in)
 

I have a quick question.... Does a brand new bow require a certain "break in" period? You know, like how a new car has a certain break in mileage period?

My brand new Reflex Highlander is all setup and shoots great. Very fast, smooth, quiet, and almost zero hand shock.

(See the photo below...)
2006 Reflex Highlander, lefty model.
67# draw weight, 29" draw length, 75% letoff
Beman ICS Hunter 340 arrow is resting on a Quiktune 1000 lefty rest.
{Disregard the crappy old Tru-Glo lefty sights in the photo. I threw them on just so I could shoot the bow and get it tuned up, broken in, practice, etc...}

Anyway, I have just started noticing a very very slight cock vane contact/rub mark on the Quiktune 1000 rest. It is probably 1/16" or less. It doesn't seem to affect arrow flight (that I can see), but is a minor annoyance.

Second question: I read about checking the tiller and looked at mine with a ruler. From what I can determine, the top tiller is 8 1/4" but the bottom tiller is 8 1/8". Shouldn't the tiller have to matchequally?

I have probably put two dozen shots through the new bow already, if that matters any...

RE: Tuning question (new bow break in)
 

Butch.

I usually put about 150 shots through my bows before doing any tuning the main reason for doin this is to let the string settle in.

If I am going to be using a peep I want the string settled in before I install the peep.

The little bit of creep that is probably going to happen with the string and cable will also effect the cam timing and usually just a twist or two will bring the cam back in time.


If you are getting some rippling of your cock vane either your nock point is a tad low or you dont have enough tension on the launcher arms.

I would not be to overly worried about your tiller being 1/8" out, just curious tho how did you measure the tiller?

RE: Tuning question (new bow break in)
 

I used a small ruler and measured from inside the limb bolt to the bow string. I just made sure that the area I used to measure from was the same area on the other side of the bow.

RE: Tuning question (new bow break in)
 

Try running afishing linefrom the top axle to the bottom axle then measure to the fishing line;)

RE: Tuning question (new bow break in)
 

New bow? If the drawlength is matched to your physic one of the first things you need to do is take measuements such as brace height, poundage, A2A, and such.

To measure tiller accurately there are two accepted methods. One is to bottom both limb bolts and back them out evenly until the accepted poundage is achieved. The other is to stretch a pice of string from axle to axle and measure to this string, not the shooting string. Record this measuement for future reference also. It doesn't matter what reference point on the riser you use so long as you use the same one all the time.

Now, take a pencil and mark the side of the cams where they pass through the limb slots. Every so often check these to assure thaat the rigging is not creeping. With your factory strings it probably will. Although Hoyt makes fine bows, be it Hoyt or Reflex they are notorious for having mediocre strings. If you notice changes in the bow as time goes on this will most likely be the culprit. If and when you want to replace the strings I would opt for a good set of aftermarket ones that are prestretched, which will minimize creeping. I replace mine right from the git-go.

With good strings on the bow you can shoot as little as 20 shots to settle the strings into the cams and get rid of initial creep. Take your necessary measurements for future reference and pretty much rest assured that the bow won't change much over the life of those strings.

RE: Tuning question (new bow break in)
 

See the photo below. This is how I measured my tiller.....

RE: Tuning question (new bow break in)
 

Bingo!!! I talked to the bowshop and got some excellent advice. I did the fishing string method and my tiller has just barely a 1/16" difference. So it's fine... I wasn't measuring accurately at first. My fault....[:-]

Onto the other thing about the vane clearance. You are absolutely correct. I sighted everything all over and even had my wife help me too. The nock point is fine, the centershot is fine too. The bow is properly setup and is fine. BUT... I had the tension on the Quiktune 1000 very light so it was just enough to hold up the arrow. What apparently happens is that, upon release, the Beman ICS Hunter pushes down on the prongs of the Quiktune 1000 which causes the cock vane to make contact. I tightened up the tension so now there is no more clearance problems.

Live and learn.... :eek:[:-][&o]

RE: Tuning question (new bow break in)
 

You're doing well Butch. On the right track. You may notice a slight poundage drop. Those fast flight strings and cables will stretch some, but after about 300 shots they should be done. You MAY have to reset your peep if you notice it's not opening up all of a sudden. That's again due to the string stretch. Perfectly normal and nothing to worry about. Just adjust the limb bolts to the proper poundage and you'll be set.

Oh, and that rascal sure is gonna look great with that new Vital Bow Gear sight on there!!

RE: Tuning question (new bow break in)
 

i think it may need a little something else before season ;)

RE: Tuning question (new bow break in)
 

...Like a new gibblet bowstring? :D