Walkback Tuning
 

Can yall helkp me how to walkback tune my bow.
Here is what I get, at 20 yards my arrows are hitting dead on but the further my range after that my arrows gradually hit more and moe to the right until eventually at 55 yds im barely hitting the target.
Can yall help me?

RE: Walkback Tuning
 

This will be interesting..I gotta check back on this one:D

RE: Walkback Tuning
 

are you using your 20 yard pin the whole time? you should be. once dialed in at 20, aim for a dot at the top as you increase your distance from the target. would you post all you info too, (draw, pounds, arrows, length, wt of tip).

RE: Walkback Tuning
 

Yes im using my 20 pin
Draw: 28.5''
LBS: 62#
Arrows: Easton C2 Realtree Green 400 cut at 29''
Tip: 100 grain

RE: Walkback Tuning
 

First make sure your 2nd and 3rd axis on sight is correct. Then make sure your nock height is perfect.I do this with bare shaft tuning at closer ranges (5 through 20 yards).Then shoot at a horizontal piece of tape at 40 or 60 yards with fletched arrows. Try and get all arrows as close to horizontal tape as possible. Don't worry about left or right at that time.If all of that has been done and you get the same results as posted above, then move your arrow rest to the left (away fromriser)in very small increments. Keep doing the test until you get all arrows in a vertical line.

RE: Walkback Tuning
 

if, as you back up using your 20 yd pin, your arrrows just keep getting further and further right without ever making a move at all back to the center, i believe that is spine. you may need to take 1.5" off those arrows. if you're getting a bit of a ')' as you back up, then your rest needs to go to the left.

now if it was me, i'd take 1.5" off the arrows anyway. and then i'd start over - but if you don't want to do that, move your rest to the left a bit, resight in from 20, and start over.

the object of the game is to be able to hit a bull at 20, and as you back up, all your arrows fall in a vertical line under the bull you were aiming at. then you'll have your center shot.

i believe the spine is correct, but maybe at 29" they may be a little weak. i'm no spine guru though.

AND DON'T LISTEN TO DOTHEAD, do your left and rights first.

RE: Walkback Tuning
 

DOTHEAD...ya I can live with that.:D

RE: Walkback Tuning
 

http://www.alansarchery.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/HomePage/HomeFrameOrig.htm

Nuff said!

RE: Walkback Tuning
 

hehehehe. i really do think you do your lefties and righties first, but upon thinking about it i'm not sure why without kind of maybe making something up a little.

RE: Walkback Tuning
 

Yep those arrows are right on the edge of being too light. Might try some 340s

RE: Walkback Tuning
 

yea that 400 shows weak on TAP A 340 is really close screen shot might be fuzzy but I think you can still see it.

RE: Walkback Tuning
 

Try moving your rest a little too the left

RE: Walkback Tuning
 

WALKBACK TUNING

Hang a weighted string from a nail on a target. Stick a round sticker on the target face so that the string splits the sticker. Use your existing 20-yd pin, step back 20-yards from the target and fire at the sticker. Don't worry about where the arrow hits.

Walk straight back to 30 yds, and using the 20-yd pin, fire an arrow at the sticker. Repeat at 35 yds and at 40 yds, using the 20-yd pin and firing at the sticker.

If your arrows look like this pattern " / ", then move your arrow rest 1/16-th inch to the right. If your arrows look like this pattern " \ ", then move your arrow rest 1/16-th inch to the left.

Repeat all of the above steps starting from 20 yds, etc.

Eventually, your arrows will hit in the target is a straight up and down line like this " | ".

But, your vertical pattern of arrows may not be hitting the string. If not, and the arrows are say 6-inches to the left of the weighted string, adjust your windage on your sight ring until you can nail the string at all distances.

Lock down the windage and lock down the arrow rest. Windage and center shot are now perfect.

It should also be noted that the correct spine arrows for the bow will hit the same vertical line at all distances while the incorrect spine arrow will not.

BARESHAFT TO SET NOCK POINT POSITION

Use a bareshaft to check for nock point position. A bareshaft has no steering correction, and will most sensitive to nock point position. Find a straw bale at the range or a box full of cardboard and folded Sunday newspapers and set this target at shoulder height.

Fire the bareshaft from a level starting position. Have a friend help you to make sure you have the arrow absolutely level when at full draw. Check the bareshaft in the target with a carpenter's level. Adjust nock position so that the bareshaft sticks in the target perfectly level when you launch the bareshaft from a level starting position.

2ND AXIS AND 3RD AXIS OF A SIGHT

Check the 2nd axis of a sight before you try walkback tuning.

1)

Insert a 6-inch long 5/16-24 bolt into the front stabilizer hole of your bow. Clamp the bolt into a vise and rotate the bow until the bow is vertical. Use a carpenter's level to confirm the bow is perfectly vertical.

2)

Check the sight bubble. Adjust the bubble on the sight until the bubble reads level when the bow is confirmed to be perfectly vertical.

You just adjusted the 2nd axis of the sight.

3)

3rd axis of the sight is what I call adjusting the "door swing". Imagine that your sight ring is connected to the sight extension bar with a set of very rusty hinges. Lets say, you bumped the sight ring and the sight ring "door" swung 45 degrees towards you. The bubble still reads level.

If you shooting at an uphill or downhill target, the bubble will lie to you and you will have to tilt the bow to get a "level reading" on the uphill or downhill shot. Then, you will wonder why you missed left or right.

Easy fix.

Hang a weighted string from the ceiling.
Load an arrow and kneel on your knees.
Come to full draw and anchor.
Line up your left edge of the bow limbs with the weighted string.
Look at your bubble level.

If you line up the left edge of the bow limbs, and the bubble is not reading level, then you must follow your sight instruction manual and adjust the 3rd axis screws.

Get on your knees, load an arrow, come to full draw, line up the left edge of the bow limbs, and check the bubble level again. Repeat this process until the bubble level reads level.

Now, you have adjusted 3rd axis.