ButchA

I hear ya.... For some odd reason I just don't trust the strength of a string loop. I am so used to just clipping on my Tru-Fire wrist release directly on the bow string, that that is what I am confortable with. The roller bearings and gentle jaws on it don't hurt the serving too bad. It's got a pivoting head so there is zero string torque.

I've read stories of guys having their string loops come undone at full draw and they almost knock themselves out! [&:]

mobow

Ya'll that are nervous about using them have right to worry. But I have been shooting one for years and never had a problem. You just need to change it out once in a while. It doesn't look like the knot will hold, but they do. It is a Clove Hitch and we use them a lot in the fire service. The way the string is looped will cause the knot to pull tight when you draw back. There is actually no force trying to pull the burnt end through the knot. I know, it seems wrong but it isn't. When you hook your release on the loop and draw the bow, the rascal pulls very tight. Tie a Clove Hitch around a chair leg or something and you'll see what I mean. It's a great knot and just doesn't slip.

ButchA

Yeah but.....

Doesn't a string loop alter your draw length? I know it will affect your anchor point. I am a solid 30" draw andso used to anchoring the top of my left index finger knuckle directly in front of my ear lobe. And that is with clipping the release right on the string.

mobow

Technically, no, your draw length is still 30 inches (or whatever.) You aren't drawing the bow any farther than you were before, but yes, it does change your anchor. Your hand will be let's say 1/4 to 1/2" farther back.

Honestly, if you shoot good without one, don't sweat it. Most guys just like them because it enables you to draw directly behind the nock, eliminating string pinch.

Dnk

Sorry Big but it does look blue but more over it looks like your mushrooms are going to pull through. Is this a string that has been on for a while? My mushrooms look bigger than yours (no pun intended). How long have you had this particular string loop on your string?

bigbulls

The loop that BigJ12 has tied is exactly what they are suppose to look like. It is the perfect size and tied perfectly.

That one will stay tight, will not pull thru, and will stay in place on the string.

BigJ71

I just got that bow this year (found it in the trash) so that loop has been on all season. I haveput thousands of shots through it though.....it won't slip. The melted end does not have to be huge, just solid. Too big and you mightrun the risk of it being weak. The key is usingquality loop material. If it feels thin and stretches it's probably cheap. Look at my pic. you will see that the loop is pretty thick. It won't deform easily so it's almost impossible for the melted end to squeeze through.

I have never had one fail ever. If tied right it won't budge.

gibblet

i'm trying mine like len suggested with the burn end on the bottom closest to the nock. he wouldn't tell why to do it this way, only to do it. i don't know why he wouldn't tell, he's like that sometimes.

ButchA

Thanks... I just got off the phone with the bow shop and told them all about my new Reflex Highlander (just got it last night!!!!) Read my post about it:

http://www.huntingnet.com/forum/tm.aspx?m=1449496

This bow is so sweet to draw. It feels great and silky smooth. I can wait to get it properly setup (hopefully this afternoon). I told the bow shop all the details to it and what I would like. They recommended a string loop. Partly because the bow is a 30" draw and a medium/small A2A. There is too much risk forstring pinch and/or arrow nock angle(?) for a 305fps IBO speed bow.

Anyway, I will be bringing it up to them this afternoon to get looked over and setup properly for me. I don't know what to do with 6 almost brand new XX75 2315's cut to 30.5 inches (from my old bow setup).

Butch A.

RobVos

BigJ12 has it right. The loop ends should not be burnt to the extent that the material turns black -- is should remain the same color as the loop material. He is also correct about not mashing or flattening the balls of the loop -- both of these thingswill make them brittle and weaker. Also tie them on opposite as stated -- for a RH shooter have the loop part on the bottom come off the right side of the string and on top on the left. This will allow the loop to not torque under the natural rendancy for a RH shooter to rotate their release slightly CCW (looking from behind), especially hand-held releases.

I also use tie in nocks inside the loop. I find that loop knots are too large and inconsistant for me to want a nock touching -- I make the bottom tied in nock longer thant the top. This puts the pressure pull point of your release directly behind the arrow -- if you made them both the same size, the pressure point will be slightly above as your bow hand is below the pulling point on the bowstring.The larger bottom nock pointalso will prevent your arrow from lifting off your rest during the draw cycle. I also like to have about 1 serving wrap of clearance between the arrow nock and the nock points -- I find this to be the most consistant and forgiving method.

Notice in the picture below:

-- The "mushroom balls" are large and are not discolored -- they are extremely strong and not brittle this way -- no way could they pull through.

-- The loop knots are opposite as I described above.

-- There are tied in nock points inside the loop with the bottom one longer than the top.

This is not my bow, but a string set I did up for someone else -- I actually prefer smaller length loops.