Tips for Home Tunning
#1
Here is an easy way to make sure your cam and idler wheel are lined up properly. Get yourself an inexpensive laser pointer. The longer bodied ones work the best.(they are about the length of a ballpoint pen) Place the pointer along the idler and click it on. Do this on both sides of the wheel to see how it is leaning.
You can fix lean by twisting one of the ends of you’re cable and placing it back on the post. You will need access to a bow press for this. Only go one turn or so at a time, take pressure off the limbs and check again. It doesn’t take long to get right.
You can also check your center shot with one in a similar fashion. Nock an arrow and place it on you’re rest. Place the pointer along the idler wheel and click it on. With the wheel as a guide you can shine the pointer down the shaft. Don’t attempt this until your cam lean is corrected.
Those are some inexpensive ways to help dial you’re bow in at home. Hope this helps.
>>>----Andrew---->
You can fix lean by twisting one of the ends of you’re cable and placing it back on the post. You will need access to a bow press for this. Only go one turn or so at a time, take pressure off the limbs and check again. It doesn’t take long to get right.
You can also check your center shot with one in a similar fashion. Nock an arrow and place it on you’re rest. Place the pointer along the idler wheel and click it on. With the wheel as a guide you can shine the pointer down the shaft. Don’t attempt this until your cam lean is corrected.
Those are some inexpensive ways to help dial you’re bow in at home. Hope this helps.
>>>----Andrew---->
#2
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 126
Likes: 0
From: Sheridan OR USA
Thanks for the tip. According to the lazer my cam and idler wheel appear to both be off! I have tried it several times hoping I was wrong. How exactly does the lean effect everything? What do the proshops use to check this? The guy at the shop told me he tuned it before I left the shop. Is this not a normal part of tuning a bow?
THATS IT! Can anyone recomend a good book that instructs you on how to do all maintainence and tuning yourself at home? It's a long drive to the shop the guys at BowTech had recommended to me and the other shop charges me for them just to look at it and the place I bought it from has been the cause of much frustration and I can't trust them to do quality work. I'm going to learn how to do everybit of the maintainence on my bow no matter what! Is there a school that teaches people this stuff? Hope this isn't too negative. Sorry if I have offended anyone. I just hate the feeling of having to rely on someone else to work on my stuff.
Kirk
THATS IT! Can anyone recomend a good book that instructs you on how to do all maintainence and tuning yourself at home? It's a long drive to the shop the guys at BowTech had recommended to me and the other shop charges me for them just to look at it and the place I bought it from has been the cause of much frustration and I can't trust them to do quality work. I'm going to learn how to do everybit of the maintainence on my bow no matter what! Is there a school that teaches people this stuff? Hope this isn't too negative. Sorry if I have offended anyone. I just hate the feeling of having to rely on someone else to work on my stuff.
Kirk
#3
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
From: Calgary AB Canada
Sounds good, but check the laser pointer out for "plumbness" before trusting it. In my line of work, I've had a few of them, and can tell you that they are NOT perfectly plumb everytime.
If you get a pointer that isn't plumb, everything might be in vain....<img src=icon_smile_blush.gif border=0 align=middle>
If you get a pointer that isn't plumb, everything might be in vain....<img src=icon_smile_blush.gif border=0 align=middle>
#4
Jcrawford2001 good point.
I had a buddy come over last night with problems. He damaged his cables in the woods Friday. He dropped his bow by a shop (not the one I work at) and picked it up saterday before they closed. He tried to shoot it Sunday and the arrows were going all over the place. None of the shops are open on Sunday so he gave me a call. Now the guy at the other shop assured him the bow was shooting bullet holes. He comes over and we shoot a test arrow. The darn thing is shooting cork screws and he is complainging the draw is shorter that is used to be. We got on Hoyt’s and checked the factory specs. The bow was 1” to long A to A and the brace height is ¾” short. That tells me the cables are to long. I was trying to find something to use to check the cam lean when my daughter came in with the laser pointer that she uses to tease the cats. We use a similar pointer from Spot Hogg at the shop. I checked the pointers plumbness on my bow because I know it is correct. It gave the same results so I trust its accuracy. The idler wheel was leaning so bad the beam wouldn’t even shot on the bottom limbs. We twisted the cable to get the bow back to spec and lined the cams. Then we checked the center shot. The guy set the arrow rest so far to the right the darn thing was pointing off the shelf. After setting the rest we went back outside and the bow shot great. After paper tuning and fine tuning we had his field points and broadheads hitting in the same spot.
notavegetarian
I don’t know about all shops, but the other shops in my area don’t spend the extra 5 to 10 min to make sure it is correct. I just won’t let myself turn out something that isn’t as correct as I can make it. I don’t know of any books to buy but you can download the Easton Tuning guide free. It is a great resource. http://www.eastonarchery.com/downloads/
If you have any questions shoot me an email and I will do what I can.
http://www.eastonarchery.com/downloads/
>>>----Andrew---->
I had a buddy come over last night with problems. He damaged his cables in the woods Friday. He dropped his bow by a shop (not the one I work at) and picked it up saterday before they closed. He tried to shoot it Sunday and the arrows were going all over the place. None of the shops are open on Sunday so he gave me a call. Now the guy at the other shop assured him the bow was shooting bullet holes. He comes over and we shoot a test arrow. The darn thing is shooting cork screws and he is complainging the draw is shorter that is used to be. We got on Hoyt’s and checked the factory specs. The bow was 1” to long A to A and the brace height is ¾” short. That tells me the cables are to long. I was trying to find something to use to check the cam lean when my daughter came in with the laser pointer that she uses to tease the cats. We use a similar pointer from Spot Hogg at the shop. I checked the pointers plumbness on my bow because I know it is correct. It gave the same results so I trust its accuracy. The idler wheel was leaning so bad the beam wouldn’t even shot on the bottom limbs. We twisted the cable to get the bow back to spec and lined the cams. Then we checked the center shot. The guy set the arrow rest so far to the right the darn thing was pointing off the shelf. After setting the rest we went back outside and the bow shot great. After paper tuning and fine tuning we had his field points and broadheads hitting in the same spot.
notavegetarian
I don’t know about all shops, but the other shops in my area don’t spend the extra 5 to 10 min to make sure it is correct. I just won’t let myself turn out something that isn’t as correct as I can make it. I don’t know of any books to buy but you can download the Easton Tuning guide free. It is a great resource. http://www.eastonarchery.com/downloads/
If you have any questions shoot me an email and I will do what I can.
http://www.eastonarchery.com/downloads/
>>>----Andrew---->




