Bols

Well, I fired a few shots through some paper today to see how my arrows were flying.

I guess I wasn't too shocked with the results, even though they were far from perfect. I kind of figured they would end up this way. But being a new shooter, you don't really have the knowledge in the beginning, so you are often left to learn things on your own.

Well, I have found my field point is entering straight below thevanes of the arrow, about an inch. (They call that straight up tear, correct?)I think I saw somewhere this is strictly a nocking point issue? Is this true? Or could it be something to do with the carbons I am shooting being underspined or a too heavy front of center weight.

I shoot a Hoyt Trykon set at 50 lbs (just for now, it will be increasing up to 60 lbs as I get confortable with shooting). I havea 29" draw length and shoot Gold Tip 5575 Expedition Hunters with I believe 100 or 125 grain field points (I should probably figure that out), and4 inch Gold Tip vanes. Thearrow rest I am currently using is a BodoodleZapper300. I did get a chance to chrono the bow as well today, it was right at 230fps.

So I guess my question is two fold. Is the paper tuning problem a nocking point issue, rest issue, or an arrow point issue? And what is the recommened arrow length for a 29" draw length? I am pretty sure the guy cut them to the correct size but this is for my own information and to double check the pro. Sorry, I like to hear a couple of opinions to get a good feel for an straight answer.

Thanks for the help guys, I really appreciate it.

Primitive Weapon

Bols,

Sounds like it could be a nocking issue or fletching contact. I read an earlier post of yours where you found that the vanes were making contact with your Bodoodle rest. Are you sure this has been resolved?

How far away from the paper were you when you tested it?

If your nock is too low, this could also cause the "straight up tear".

BF1947

What LD said, and maybe onother thing or two to look at.

I'm not quite familiar with the Zapper rest. Is it spring loaded so it gives a bit? Possibly you need to lighten the spring pressure. Usually the lighter the better so long as it supports the arrow.

At this point you are definitely NOT underspined, which is good. Maybe even on the stiff side, but this should not keep you from being able to get a decent tune.

Bols

In reply to a few questions you guys posed:

I am pretty certain that I have resolved my clearance issues. I have been nocking my arrow with my cock vane up, so this is eliminating the clearance issues I was having before.

I was standing about 5 ft. away from the paper when I was paper tuning. Is this an appropriate length?

The rest is a total containment style rest with prongs. There is nothing on the restother than four prongs,one on eachside of the arrow, two prongs that are basically next to one another on the bottom of the arrow. If you do an Image Search on Google you can easily find what they look like. Bodoodle Zapper 300 (Bodoodle has since when out of business).

Should I look into moving my D-Loop up in slight incriments? Or is there anything else that could be causing this problem?

This problem probably doesn't have anything to do with FOC weight right?

Thanks for the help!

jerseyhunter

When did this happen?

nubo

Your arrow seem's to be fine, but you may need to adjust your D-loop as you say ,it 's pretty hard to get a perfect tear all the time ,so if you have aSLIGHT right tear that's O.K ,what you need to concern yourself with is the up or down tear ,that's when I'd start with your d-loop if it right or left I'd look at my arrow rest not being centered .Hope this help's.

nubo

nubo

If your tear is high then your nock point is high and if it's low then your nock point is low .If your a right handed shooter then a slight high to the right tear ,is O.K.,this tell's you that your arrow nock is lifting off of your rest ,which is what you want and the opposite for the left handed shooter . Usually if you have a serious tear directnock tear left,that's most likely a spine issue ,and the direct nock tear right is astiff acting arrow .
With this info I'm speaking of an right handed shooter ,it would be the complete opposite for a lefty.

nubo

Bols

Thanks for the help Nubo. I willlook over that when I go shootingat the range next time.

Sorry I didn't see your post JerseyHunter, Bodoodle is apparently out of business, someone back me up on this but I believe one of the owners is dying and the business got sold, or something to that effect.

I went and downloaded the Bow/Arrow Tuning Guide from Easton and then printed it off. I currently have a binder with all of the info I have printed off this website and others. It sure does come in handy. That tuning guide from Easton sure does cover alot of the information beginning shooters might have. I would suggest new archers read that guide.

nubo

Bol's!

Not a problem ,anytime

I don't know if you have this one ,but it's also worth having around .

www.bowjackson.com


nubo

Bols

Actually, I stole that link off another one of your recent post. One step ahead of ya!

Thanks