bow help
 

Well I've been praticing everyday since I got my new sting on. I guess its been about 3 or 4 days.

Here is my problem, I wanted to keep just one pin on my bow but after shooting alot I have found that having one pin for me is not going to work. I have one pin at 15 yards. From 10 to 15 yards any deer is dead. I put another pin on for 25 yards and after shooting a while I finally got pretty decent with it. I can put all my arrows inside the replaceable target on the 3d deer foam targets. The inner part, prolly about the size a little bigger than a softball. Now, when I move down to 20 yards, my 25 yard pin won't work, it puts the arrows up on the target, i am still hitting it but its about an inch from missing the top of the whole deer. And of course my 15 yard pin just misses the whole thing. Should I add another pin? Or just keep to 25 yards and/or 15 and under? OR, change up my pins, maybe one for 15 and one for 20? It took me a while, climbing up and down my stand, 10 arrows and a few all day shoots to get this far, I'd hate to just start moving my pins around again.

RE: bow help
 

your bow must be going pretty slow if their is that much of a gapfrom 15-25. i have a 35 yard pin and at 45 and 50 yards i have to guess a little on where it is going to hit but i know how high i have to aim for it to hit it's mark. so figure out how high you have to aim your 15 yard pin to be on at 20 yards but i just can't see how 5 yards can make that big of a difference.

also i think it would be easier to sight your bow in from the ground then move up into your stand and tweak the pins if you need to

RE: bow help
 

well, I was pulling back 70 pounds. And it was easy for me but obviously lower poundage is going to be even more easy. I set it right at 63 pounds but I have noticed a BIG difference in the arrow speed. This is prolly a little exagerated but I can almost count a full second from the time my arrow is released to when it hits at 25 yards. I am just going to turn it back up to 70 and see what the difference is. I agree it should be that big of a difference at 5 yards. I am going to need all the speed I can get. I just now have a STS on and I am fixing to put seom string silencers on. And I have a .5inch shorter string to help with my DL. I am comfortable with 70, there is not pointing the bow up to pull it back. I can pull it back easy but I just like the feeling of lower weight, I guess i am nust lazy.

RE: bow help
 

i dont know what else to do. I went out and turned up my DW and set my 25 yard pin down to 20. So I have a 15 and 20 yard pins. BUT I still hit way too low at 25 with my 20 yard pin. Another thing is on my bow, my two pins are only about a an 1/8 of a inch apart. I guess its the little things that make a difference, I guess with a gun you have more forgiveness than with a bow. If I can't get a deer in to 15 or 20 yards I guess I'll pass him up. I

RE: bow help
 

You will just have to experiment. I hate having a bunch of pins on my sight. It is way too easy to pick the wrong one at crunch time. I have done it:D. Practice at odd yardages by putting the target centered between two pins. So if you have a 20 and a 30 shoot at 25 by splitting the difference. I would rather do that than add another pin. The other problem with a bunch of pins is the obstruct the view of the target. Brian

RE: bow help
 

If you use multiple pins you gap shoot. I use a 20,30, and a 40 yard pin. If you want to shoot at 25 yards or 35 yards you just aim with a point half way between your pins. In your case if you had a 15 yard pin and a 25 yard pin and wanted to shoot at 20 yards just split the difference between the two pins and that will be 20 yards. You don't have to use a pin to shoot, it is just a reference point.

I can even shoot at 50 yards with a 40 yard pin.

If you were uncomfortable with your bow turned up, turn it back down. You probably didn't gain that much speed anyway, for sure not enough to effect your trajectory enough to warrant moving your pins.

If you want to be able to place a pin directly on your target at every range you will need to get a single pin movable sight.

Paul

Sharkey posted while I was typing:D. If you are having trouble understanding what we are saying I can make a picture to show you.

RE: bow help
 

hmm, I'll try that gap shooting method. I thought of doing that but just thought it was guessing and wouldn't be that reliable.

RE: bow help
 

Hunting involves a lot of guessing. That is why we practice a lot - to get good at it.

RE: bow help
 

I always visualized a graduated scale between my pins, in 1 yard increments. All my pins were spaced at 10 yards so, in my mind,each gap between the pins was divided into 10 increments. 22 yards was 2 clicks under the 20 pin. 27 yards was3 clicks over the 30 (which would also be 7 clicks under the 20, but the 30 pin is closer and easier to use).

That is an exact aiming method. Not anything close to guessing.

RE: bow help
 

utm,

How is that drawlength now that you got it all changed? I can tell you one thing that did was slow your bow down a bit, but drawlength is much more important.

Ya got some good advice up above. You should be able to set your pins at 15 and 25 yards if that's what you want. Then just gap shoot for 20. That's how we do it most of the time.

By turning the bow down to 63# you should have lost about 15fps. Certainly not enough to make a big difference at short yardages such as 25 yards. It should almost be imperceptible, really. You should probably only see about a 2" drop from 20 to 25 yards.

We talked about this before when discussing drawlength. Accuracy is the real key to shooting. If you shoot better at a lower weight then by all means shoot it that way. You're fairly new to shooting so I will pass on some advice. Hunting season is a long way off. You don't need to be shooting out of a treestand right now. And you don't need to be worrying about broadhead flight either. Get yourself on the ground, set up your equipment, and work on shooting form. Once you get much better form and are really consistent with it you'll have learned more about tuning because you'll most likely be doing some along the way.

And if you want to get better and better then you also need to put the 3D target away and shoot at spot (bullseye) targets. Let's see, oh yeh, don't shoot 10 arrows at a time. Try shooting 3, concentrating on one shot at a time. Don't worry about group shooting. The only shot you can do anything about is the arrow in the bow. The one in the target is one you can't do anything about and the next one isn't there yet anyway.

Hope some of this helps.

RE: bow help
 

You know when ppl use to mention form I use to let it go in one ear and out the other, but I could tell a major increase in confidence on particular shots when my form was perfect. I can't describe it, I could tell I was looking straight down the arrow at the pins, my anchor point on my face was perfect, my release was perfect (did you know you can flinch shooting a bow? LOL), everything was perfect and I knew before the arrow hit, that it was going to be a perfect shot placement. I will get down out of the stand like you said, I love you guys advice, I just hope we can keep in touch till next year, I really want to do more bowhunting than gun next year. I was planning on doing a little thisyear before the 8th (last day) but I dont 'know if I want to risk wounding a deer, plus, I dont' know how hard it will be to bowhunt this late in the season right after gun season.

As far as the DL, the guy at the bow shop said it looked good. I am going to get a shorter release to help even more. He did recommend not putting a loop on the string but I really wanted one because it was a new string and I didn't want to ruin it. He fixed one up pretty short for me. All in all they were really helpful and nice and hardly charged me anything. the only thing I was charged for was the string.

RE: bow help
 

I'm still thinking you should make your first pin 20 yards and your second pin 30 yards.

At closer distances like 15 yards your 20 yard pin should hit in practically the same location. The advantage to a 20 yard pin and a 30 yard pin is you will be covered from 35 yards on in. Plus I don't think getting within 15 yards for a new bow hunter is practical. Not being mean, just saying15 yards would not be what I would expect or plan on in the field. 25 yards is more realistic.

Furthermore, when you have your first pin at 15 yards yoursecond pin will always be too close and obstruct yourview. If I only had 2 pins to work with, I would make the most of it and have the trajectory skewed on the far side of what I am comfortable with shooting.

My first pin is at 30 yards...everything from 30 yardsand closer the arrow hits within 1 inch accuracy. Second pin is 40 yards and so on. Between myfirst and second pin is 35 yards.

What bow are you shooting and how heavy are your arrows?

RE: bow help
 

I am shooting a PSE Nova. My arrows are 429.2 with nocks, tips and all. But I have shorter DL now and these arrows are 29 inches long and are 2400s, the ones I need with my new DL are 2300s. that could be also a problem. My DW is 70, I dont have a problem shooting that but I like lighter weight so I may end up changing it again.

RE: bow help
 

i will do wha tyou said and change my 15 pin to a 20 yarder. I am leaving ot do that right now LOL.

RE: bow help
 

i hope you're not driving, rotfl.

RE: bow help
 

backyard, one of the many benefits of living out in teh country